Power loss

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I have a 1994 dodge 3500 5. 9l cummins, the truck seems to have no power from start or from 55mph. at 55mph if I put it to the floor it will creep to 70mph then really creep to 80mph then thats it. when I hook my 9000lbs trailer to it 55mph is it period. what seems to be strange is with the trailer at 55mph the moter is only turning 1600 rpm so it does not seem to be straining it just seems to have no more pedal. cummins has checked the truck and they says its operating with spec's. I cant stomach this since I have trucks much small pulling larger trailers blowing by me. any idea's of what to try????? thanks in advance
oh and its seems that turbo is working okay

 

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Three things come to mind.
1. Fuel filter
2. Valve adjustment(or maybe timing)
3. Fuel return valve in the injection pump.

That is probably where it lies

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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Have a friend push the accelerator to the floor. Grap the throttle linkage on the injector pump and see if you can rotate it more. I would bet your throttle cable has stretched and your pump isn't seeing full throttle. This happened to my truck (also a '94) and is a common problem.

You can make some spacers to fit on the accelerator cable where it attaches to the top of the accelerator pedal lever inside the cab. You'll figure it out once you look at it. You just need to pull the cable more at full throttle. I used some zip ties and they haven't failed yet.

I hope that made sense. Good luck.

-Chris

 

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Kill the Cat!!! Hack off the muffler, too! Both are BIG power killers...

 

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Did you check your throttle linkage for out of adjustment,sounds like you are not getting full throttle. If you have a Dodge manual you will find the ajustment proceedure listed in 14-92. I would check this first. Hope it helps.

 

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Is there anyway to check the fuel return valve without taken the injection pump off???? thanks for the idea's

Originally posted by DieselB59:
Three things come to mind.
1. Fuel filter
2. Valve adjustment(or maybe timing)
3. Fuel return valve in the injection pump.

That is probably where it lies

 

[Archive]

It's kind of a snug fit, but no problem to remove the valve with the pump on the engine. The valve is in the banjo fitting between the pump and the engine even with the number 1 delivery valve. There are a couple of washers that immediately disappear in some unknown hidden place so it's a good idea to cram a shop rag in the space between the pump and the engine to catch them.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

Check fuel pressure, My overflow valve was bad and it did exactly what yours is doing. My fuel presure was low. do a search with my screen name as I have described the quick fix several times, it costs nothing and takes 20 minutes and is easy.
Good luck

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip
80gal fuel capacity. BD Brake, EGT,Boost + fuel pressure gauges. Member NRA/USPSA