Power range

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My 95 5 speed (stock 150k mi. ) seems to have its power from about 1200 and up to 2300 (approx. ) RPMs. Ya gotta shift or she seems to almost sleep. Is this normal. Yes, this is my first CTD, and she pulls like a mule.

I am thinking of killing the kitty and maybe a "git kit". I would like to hear opinions on the latter... good idea or leave it due to miles.

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9535hunderd

 

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Yeah, that's about right. When you get over the power band you get more noise instead of power with a stock setup. There is lots of stuff available to add power. Actually, most of it is to let loose the power that Dodge has stepped on so the clutch and other running gear stuff will survive. First thing is a torque plate power kit (replace the throttle stop) and an EGT gage so you don't get carried away and have a melt down. I recommend TST for the power kit.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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If you have 150k miles on the cat and muffler, you are burning more fuel than youre getting good out of! Open up the exhaust, get your timing fixed and I too recommend the TST kit! Your mileage will go WAY up, and the performance will blow you away!

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54 5spd, Green, #12 plate slid all the way forward, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, RS 9000's, PrimeLoc, Red Tops, TDR cloisonae grill badge!

 

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If it doesn't pull all the way to 2500, then you should check your throttle linkage, and make sure you're getting full travel at the pump. Get someone to mash the pedal in the truck, and then make sure it's not possible to move the lever on the pump any farther.

If you can, there's adjustments you can make. Generally, you loosen the ends on that rod that runs to the pump from the linkage setup, and crank the ends in/out to get to the right point. In = more travel out= less.

 

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BD governor spring kit makes for a lot wider powerband. Add the TST plate and hold on.

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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, 16cm, 16%btdc, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

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Larry,I know you swear by the spring kit,how much did end up paying in the end?It just seemed a little over priced for the actual materials you get,but I know little of the R&D that was required to to produce it.
Bill

 

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Statland,

LarryB is right on. Erase that Banks stuff & climb on board with TST for the fuel plate. There are other Cummins fuel crazies out there like TST selling fuel plates. TST is just the one I'm using. Banks is way too much money for what you get.
http://www.tstproducts.com/

$300 get's more torque than you can believe. 1 hours of your time to loosen some screws & follow the instructions. Furthermore, the BD Scourge Spring Kit will raise the rpm range above the governor cut off you're seeing. You WILL have a new truck!
http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php

Follow these experts leads & let them know what you want to do. #ad
#ad


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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, HX40-16, TST #11/280 slid 3/4 way, 300 HP Injectors, Scourge BD Governor kit.
4" CATless turn down straight out back.
ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, RE-0880, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, 235s on Alcoas, Rancho 9000's, Valentine One.
Clutch days are numbered, McLeod on the way.
#11 plate days are numbered, custom grind on the way.
Dutchmen 27' 5th Wheel.
GoldWing.

 

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check the top idle screw on the back of the pump where the lincage stops, this is adjustable and I find they are not uncommonly out 3 to 4 turns. If you screw this all the way in it allows the pump to go all the way to its governor setting, usually 2500 on pre 96, 2700 to 3100 on later trucks. Hope this helps.
Ps get rid of that cat. #ad

 

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illflem,

You are right, there probably isn't $5 worth of material in a gov spring kit but that is also true of a torque plate. I feel that the gov kit made as much differance as the torque plate in my truck. Horse power per dollar is what counts.

Just my opinion but I wouldn't be without the gov spring kit. It made a BIG diff in my truck.

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95 2500,std cab,4x4,auto by Dunrite,TST #4,AFC spring kit,Pier's gov spring kit, timing @ 15*, 215 injectors, Walker muff, 3. 54,Diprocol gauges in cupholder slot, K&N,Optima reds, Valentine One radar deflector,Diamond utility bed, Firestone air bags, custom 52 gal aux tank under bed.

 

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How much did you pay for your truck???
How much is it worth to make you love it more than when it was new?? Mmmmm...

Bill
I know it's a buttload of clams for some dumb springs but it's what they do thats worth the money, just like buying computer software. #ad


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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, 16cm, 16%btdc, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

[This message has been edited by LarryB (edited 12-21-2000). ]

 

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Gov. spring kit is less than $200. 00. It includes 2 hardend spring seats, 6 custom gov. springs & 6 HD valve springs... and it works #ad


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Piers, BD engine R&D

 

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Yep! Best bang for the buck arround. Plus it makes the truck alot more drivable.

Piers, I adjusted the AFC housing as you suggested. BINGO, runs as smooth as stock.

P. S, With all your dyno experience, what would be your guess as to my HP/TQ according to my sig?

Larry

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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, 16cm, 16%btdc, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

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Larry I would estimate your hp to be around 300 flywheel or 260 rear wheel hp. What position is your stock cam plate in?

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Piers, BD engine R&D

 

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Piers
My stock plate is approx . 030" forward of stock position. How much more power would you guess I can make and still keep the stock clutch? I'm guessing I'm getting close. I don't know how old the clutch is but is seems very solid and I don't do any burnouts or speed shifting, only pulling, adding power after clutch is fully locked up. My main reason for wanting to stay with the stock clutch is ease of pedal, full disengagement and smooth creeping with heavy load forward and backwards.

I know it's probably easier if I just call you but I like to give the TDR Website readership the benifit of your experience.
Thanks for all your help.
Larry

[This message has been edited by LarryB (edited 12-21-2000). ]

 

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Decide on how much hp will make you happy and how much money you wish to spend.
Then call Piers at BD and he will give you what you are looking for #ad
.
See signature below.

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95' 2500 standard trans. 2wd reg cab 125,000 miles.
TST #4 plate kit, 370 Diamond B injectors, Afc spring kit, Gov. spring kit,TST's fuel pressure adapter and 2 guage pillar mount, SPA EGT/Boost guage. Joe D's Sachs clutch is in.

 

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All the info is appreciated! Now, lets get down to it... must kill kat. This new toy will be used for pulling as well as a daily driver, can I get the best of both worlds, i. e. torque and ponys (h. p. ) without penalizing myself at the pump? Also, with 150k on her it seems the muffler would be full of soot, am I right on that one? This monster runs great, its just the gears don't "last"... then again diesel driving is DIFFERENT, I find it to have a nice calming sound and working in downtown L. A. anything that helps is worth taking!


Hope you guys get the right stuff this X-Mas!

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9535hunderd

 

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Larry I would think you are very close to the stock clutch limit. Stock cam plate . 030 forward is good for about 25-30 hp That would put you in the 330 flywheel hp range around 700 ft. lbs. flywheel torque #ad
with a nice wide power band.

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Piers, BD engine R&D

 

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Thanks Piers. I'll be leaving for Cabo San Lucas in a few weeks and that will give me a good test drive (5,000mi). If I determine that this is just not enough power, I'll get ahold of you when I get back and talk fuel plates & clutches.

Thanks again for all your help.
Merry Christmas, Larry


[This message has been edited by LarryB (edited 12-22-2000). ]

 

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Howdy folks, new guy here. Been reading ya'lls posts for about 6 months now. I finally got my registration done so here I be.
Man I could use some help with identifing any mods. with my truck, if there are any. I bought it in May with 92k mi. [from dealer]. They just got the truck in that day, and I drove it home that night. I have no history on the truck. This is my first diesel p/u. I have been driving 18 wheelers since 73. I know some about driving diesels. What I first noticed about the truck was it has a straight pipe on it. At first I avg. 14-15 mpg hwy. I adjusted the valves to specs. and it increased to 18-19 mph hwy. They were not off too bad. The worst was an exhaust at about . 027. I think I adjusted 8 out of 12. All the exhaust that were adjusted were open too much. All the intakes were open too little [thought that was strange]. The power band on the truck would not even kick in til 2k rpm then go to atleast 3k rpm [always let off at that point]. I then loosened the star wheel [thanks to this site] and increased the power at lower rpms. Also notice that the power band is in 2 stages. One around 2k rpm, then another stronger one around 2550. This doesn't seem to jive with what I am reading about a stock truck. I'm not sure what I got. I'm not wanting a wheel spinning sled dragging truck now, but I do want to be able to let the power go when it is called on. I believe strongly that my foot is the govener [with help from gauges]. Now I need to figure out how to let the power loose without having to rebuild what I know is there. After laying back and reading these posts, I know you guys know alot more than I do about this diesel p/u. I would be most appreciated if anyone could help me figure this truck out. I need to find a good cummins machanic too.
Well fellows, didn't mean to stay so long, but I'm tickled pink that I'm here. Thanks in advance and if I know any answers to any questions, I'll sure be around to answer.
Ron

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97 3500 dually, ext. cab p/u,5sp,3:54,245/75R16,
straight pipe,105k mi. Ron

 

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Ron,

The first thing I would check for is a torque plate. Remove the four screws the fasten the AFC housing cover. It's the part behind the delivery valves on the top of the pump and has a screw that takes an 8mm allen wrench. One of the screws may be a "tamper proof" screw that you may have to unscrew with a small chisel. There is a tube fastened to the rear of the housing that will have to be removed also. Once the cover is removed you will see a part with slots in the screw holes where it is fastened. If it's stock the screws will be near the center of the slots. If the part (torque plate) is stock you will see a couple of rivets. It there are no rivets and there is large number it's a replacement plate. In that case, get hold of TST and tell them the number so they can give you some idea what sort of HP and torque you may have. Working in there is kind of a PITA and you may have to take the air horn off to get room.