Power range

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Thanks Joe,
That gives me a beginning. Didn't know where this torque plate was. Been reading lots about it, seems to be some kind of slide for the fuel control or something.
Well if I could fix that puppy it may want to pull better. Thanks again for a quick responce Joe. It's a little too cool tonight to be messing with it now. I'll try to find out what I can tomorrow.
Merry Christmas all. .


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97 3500 dually, ext. cab p/u,5sp,3:54,245/75R16,
straight pipe,105k mi. Ron

 

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Ron,

Basically the thing is a throttle stop. Kind of like a block of wood under the throttle pedal. It's a little more complicated than that, but not much.

 

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zzman, call Piers at BD for any questions about your pump. He is extremly knowledgeable about our engines and will bend over backwards to help you. I've bought all of my go-fast goodies from BD with plans on more. Anytime I've had a question or a problem, Piers has helped me out. He is a HUGE asset to TDR members. You'll find that once you meet or talk to somebody else that is a member, it's like meeting somebody in your family. I'd help out a fellow member any day of the week. Welcome to the family Ron!

By the way, the "slide" you mentioned is actually the plate. You can slide it forward for more power. But, I would follow Joe G's advice and find out what cam plate it is and where it is positioned before you do anything. Make sure you invest in some good egt and boost gauges if you don't already have them.

 

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Well Joe, I took a good look at the pump and it looks like it has never been touched. I say this cause all the paint is still on it, the bolts and stuff. I saw the screw that looks like a rivet on top of the pump [closest to front of engine]. The only scratch on it is where I took the hex plug out, adjusting the star wheel. I believe this is all stock. The pump has a brand of Bosch on it.
Well now I don't know why it has such a strong burst of power around 2550 thru 3000 rpm. What I'm reading here is that a stock set up should begin to shut fuel off around 2500 or so.
I have a 4000lb travel trailer that I have to keep the rpms up to 2k or it will slow down big time when going up a long not so steep grade. I don't like running the engine at the higher rpm level for a long time. I normally shift gears around 22 2300. If I down shift at 2000 rpm it would be running about 2500 I believe. In 5th gear at 66 mph it is turning 2000 rpms. Why I wonder would there be a strong power band at 2550 and going to atleast 3000. I'm going to take it out later and see how far this power band goes. I'm a little afraid to do this cause I know it will be well past the red line. I don't believe diesels are designed to run at such high rpms.
Do you Joe or anyone else think it is a bad idea to push an engine as far as the govener will allow it? We do it all the time on the big rigs now days. You can't run one too high to do harm with the factory goveners. They shut off way too early now, around 1800.
Is there anyone that has power bands like I have described? This sure does puzzle me.

Thanks Joe and Sixkill

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97 3500 dually, ext. cab p/u,5sp,2wd,3:54,245/75R16,
straight pipe,105k mi. Ron

 

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Ron,

You can't tell without removing the cover. If the torque plate was installed with a TST kit according to the instructions there will be NO external signs anyone has been messing with it. The kit comes with a new break off screw so if the job was done with care so nothing else got gouged up it will look stock.

As far as I know you can run the engine right against the governor all you want without hurting anything in these pickups. If the governor is stock it will defuel so it won't turn over about 2800 RPM. That's all mine will do which results in 97MPH in OD. Piers is the expert on the governor business.

 

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Zzman,

My truck has the powerband you describe with the stock plate. It will rev to about 3200 with no governor adjustments. It will actually go to about 3400 in the lower gears, but that is pretty useless in my case. I found that out by accident one day.

It is my understanding that at least the 215hp engines are that way. I know another guy near here with a 96 5sp which does the same.

Brian

 

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I've got a 96 5 speed & I wouldn't rev past 2600 or so. Fueling was starting to cut back at 2200 or so.

Now that the Scourge springs are in place, I can feel just how early the fuel was being cut back. Now it revs easily thru 2500. #ad
Before, you could feel things 'back off' starting in the 2200 rpm range. I very rarely shift as high as 2500, but it sure is nice to rev as you'd like. This mod definately makes the truck feel completely different.

 

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My power is from about 1500 to 2950 - tapers off just before redline. If the AFC kit is in, the AFC housing will be slid forward instead of back. That's the only sign I can think of besides the trick screw and scratched paint - mine has plenty of that! Does anyone know a part# for the dark brown paint on the 97 engine? I can't find it anywhere! Two DC dealers I've tried don't know and neither does Cummins. Craig

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, AFC kit, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Gutted Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!

 

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Zenolite makes a spray paint for anodized bronze aluminum that is exactly the same color. You wouldn't think it by the name but it's a dead match,found it accidentally at an Ace hardware.

 

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The bronze on alum. windows etc. does look the same. Thanks, I'll get some! Craig

 

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ZZMzn, Welcome to the group. Your truck sounds similar to mine (see signature below). The group here are great for advice on making these detuned Cummins run the way they were meant to run. If ya don't have the gauges I would get'em. On my truck the boost comes on about 1500. The ole right foot controls things from there. Very seldom will I rap it over 2400rpm. With the overdrive trans splitter I like the pulling power of the high side of 4th at about 2100->2250. It is awesome... . It sounds as if your truck is in the right hands and you will make it in the "Bombing Group". Have a good day and Merry Christmas All...

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1997 3500 SLT, Ext cab, 5spd, TST #11, GV Aux Trans, BD exhaust, Kelderman Air Ride, 60 Gallon fuel tank, Clifford Security, Reese 20k 4way 5th wheel hitch, Boost/EGT gauges, K&N air filter, Rancho RS9000 shocks, Brush Guard, DZee full length running boards.

 

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Thanks Iceman, Merry Christmas to you and yours also and happy holidays to all.
Well Joe I took the truck out to check the range of the govener. In 3rd gear it was hard to feel any differance in power change. It pulled up to about 3050 then shut down quickly and settled for 3250 max. In 4th gear it pulled to almost 3000 and finished at 3100 at 73 mph. I didn't finish fifth gear, at 85 mph I let off, by the time I looked at the tach it was coming down from about 2750, probably got to 2900. [empty] I felt like I had reached enough speed for the 2 lane farm road.
I am interested in changing the curve of the power band and I guess to do this I will need to modify the plate and possibly the spring tension for turbo boost. When the top of the pump is opened up, both the plate and springs are accessed here, is this right?
When I take this dude apart, will I need any new gaskets or anything? or can I just open it up, take a peek inside, and put it back together? The screw that I chisle off, I will replace, but I ain't re-painting it. Mine will look like Craigs soon, scratches and dings that is. I carry my own 24/7/365 warranty.
I am not interested in any higher rpms, I need the power band lowered. I will try to contact Piers after the holidays.

I think I hear Santa on the roof, gotta go.
Merry Christmas all.

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97 3500 dually, ext. cab p/u,5sp,2wd,3:54,245/75R16,
straight pipe,105k mi.
Ron

 

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wile your in there take a straigh screwdriver and slide that plate forward. #ad

 

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Ron,

There are no gaskets that need to be changed. I replaced all four of the screws with allen head. I think that there are two lengths of them so you need so take a couple of samples to the hardware store. My warranty is a vague memory so I don't worry about such things as break off screw replacement. As others have said, you need at least an EGT gage and probably a boost gage. If you have a TST kit (number on the plate) you should also have a modified elbow in the boost line. It will have a small allen screw in it to restrict the boost signal so the the waste gate opens at higher boost. Around 28 to 30PSI, something like that.

You can scare yourself with one of these trucks on a two lane road ok. Replacing the factory shocks keeps the fear factor under control a little better. #ad
I scairt my widdle self a couple of times on SR 20 in northern CA before I threw the factory shocks in the trash.