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Power Trax Locking Diff - Question

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Unfortunately the LS differential box wasn't checked by the previous owner :-laf and I've been struggling with an open end since 01. I'm looking at least expensive best outcome - kinda best bang for the buck. I've priced complete LS center sections and complete rears also having work done by shop specializing in drive trains. Every option is more $$$ than this - which I can do in my own driveway on a Saturday afternoon - probably a 2 - 3 beer job ;).



My two questions are: Is there anyone out there (must be at least one) that has used this product whom can comment on it's effectiveness and ease of installation / positive or negative feedback also appreciated. And, which part number will I need for my 99 w/the Dana 70 (I'm pretty sure that's whats' in the rear). Thanks. I still can't imagine a 4 X 4 w/out at least an LS in the back - kind of makes it a 2X2 eh?
 
I have one of those in my 4x4. it was made my lock right, but it is the same thing.



1) You CAN NOT install it in a carrier that came with a LS. It is designed to install in a normal open differential in place of the spider gears. If, and I say FI, you LS has 4 spider gears in it, you MAY be able to use it, but you need to confirm this with powertrax.



2) If you can find an open diff carrier, you can swap carriers (which will entail gear setup) and then use it.



3) Installation is very easy, and for the average mechanic, will take less than 2 hrs total IF you have the correct carrier. In your case, I'm not sure how long it will take or how easy it will be (cuz of your axle). Mine took less than an hr to install the 1st time, but I had an open diff to put it in. If you swap carriers, or have to install it in a LS carrier, it may take a good bit longer to do.



Mine works awesome, BUT... and this is a big BUT... I would not use it in anything that sees a lot of towing duty. A limited slip is best for towing. The locker can break things when the added weight from towing comes into play. teh extra weight from towing will make it harder to unlock when turning, and can give sudden and violent disengagement and re-engagement.



I have flat towed over 5000 lbs behind mine, and turns were kinda strange, because the weight exaggerates the locking and unlocking of the diff.



I have been running mine for over 12 yrs, and with about 100 more hp than they recommend, and my tires are well over their 36" tire limit recommendations. I have busted up 2 axles housings, but am still using the same locker.
 
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Short version - I've been struggling with an open end since 01. Is there anyone out there that has used the product (mentioned in start of post) whom can comment on it's effectiveness and ease of installation / positive or negative feedback also appreciated.



And, which part number will I need for my 99 w/the Dana 70



Thanks for the replies so far - any more?
 
I have used lunchbox lockers in the past and generally speaking, they are junk. They work great when new, but as they start to wear, they gall and start to stick. Either disentegrating, possibly grenading the rear end or just locking all together.



IMO, if you want a locker, go with a Detroit, ARB or the like. Limited slips come in a variety of flavors and my favorite is the Powr-Lok. Tough as nails and lasts.



Dave
 
dunno on tow rigs/pick up trucks, but on 4x4s (Jeeps, Broncos, Zukis etc. ) they've been serving well :)

And the Noslip is also one of the least visible (on road) lunch box lockers out there :)



BTW: Lockright and Noslip are both lunchbox lockers made by Powertrax :)
 
RDelissen said:
dunno on tow rigs/pick up trucks, but on 4x4s (Jeeps, Broncos, Zukis etc. ) they've been serving well :)

And the Noslip is also one of the least visible (on road) lunch box lockers out there :)



BTW: Lockright and Noslip are both lunchbox lockers made by Powertrax :)





No offense, but that's apples and oranges in comparison to the weight, pressure on the drive wheels and axles, weight capacity and torque the rear end is exposed to in our rigs.



Dave
 
Well, you can believe what you want, but, as I have said... I have been using one in my 5500 lb offroad rig, 400+ hp, 500+ ft lbs, hard on it all the time (even has seen some dragstrip time), for over 12 yrs, with much larger tires than are recommended for it. It has survived 2 housing destructions, and still looks brand new!



If it isn't installed correctly, you will have problems, and there are several ways it can be installed wrong (shims, runout, worn center pin, following the wrong instructions, etc), but mine has lived very well, and is none the worse for wear, after over 100,000 miles. So far, everyone I have talked to who had one fail, didn't follow the directions when installing it (that's 4 people BTW).



I had a shim in mine fail after 10 yrs of hard use, and they sent me a new one for free, even tho it was no longer under warranty. You can not even tell on the locker parts OR the gears/bearings that the shims pieces went thru the rear end.



I go the same places in my 1/2 ton axles with a '$400 lunchbox locker' as others do in their $600 detroited 1 ton rear axles (don't forget to add to that the $300 or so you will spend to swap and re-do the gears), with just as much ease of driving.



And actually, BTW, lockright made the 'lunchbox locker' first, then powertrax bought the patent and now lockright and noslip are made & marketed by powertrax.



Again, as I have said, I wouldn't recommend it for a tow vehicle. I don't recommend towing with a locker, but it you are gonna tow with one, I would recommend a detroit because they are going to give less ring gear deflection than the stock carrier will. I don't necessarily think detroits are any stronger than the lockright, cuz I've seen several detroits grenaded with less power than I run, but it will not allow the ring gear to deflect as much under load.



ARB's are decent, and would give you the locker for traction, and the open diff for towing, with the ability to engage the locker only when needed. But, They are pricey, they also require gear removal and reinstallation, and they have a lot of problems with the seals in the diff leaking and either not locking in, or not unlocking. That is why I won't use one in my offroad rig.
 
TRCM - Thanks for the info. Good to hear you've had good luck with your unit. I don't tow anything and am getting ready to drop a few bombs under the hood now that I finally got the trans done and just can't stand a one wheeler peeler. Thanks again.
 
I heard that the 3. 54 gears had a thick ring gear and you couldn't get the cross pinion out of the carrier without removing the ring gear. That of course would mean setting up gears. If you're going to do that, then I'd say look at a new carrier with either a locker or LSD. If you have a Dana 80, then look at the Gleason Torsen unit available. No clutches to wear and no additive needed.
 
Power Trax

Joe Mc, unit is very easy to install my truck had 3. 55 its a tight fit but no problem. Call the people at Richmond Gear they'll tell you all about it. Thanks Steve B.
 
locker or not... I had to grind about . 030" off the high side of one tooth on my gears to get the center pin in.



Called richmond gear, and it is common to have to do that on a dodge 9 1/4 rear. 4. 56 gears are the biggest that will fit in the housing.
 
As far as the problems with the ARB leaking air etc, that was true when they first came out. Everyone I know that has a recent version has had no problems at all.
 
I have had one in a '85 Chevy PU for ~7yrs. I purchased it for the ease of installation (I felt lazy) and the install was fairly simple. It has served me well and works just fine. It is much quieter than an original Detroit Locker when it engages and disengages. In some situations you can get it to clank pretty well but that's just the nature of a locker. I have to be careful getting in and out of the throttle driving on winding mountain roads especially with other traffic nearby. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
 
I have had one in for 3 years and no problems. Sled pulled, drag raced, and towed VERY heavy with it. Never had a problem and the extra traction is great.
 
I was basing the problems with ARB on conversations with the people who install them AND people who drive with them. Every one of them recommended I get something else.



This was within the past year BTW.
 
Personally its a little too rough for me. you can feel it back there, locking and unlocking. had one in the rear of my scout. swapped it to the front and installed a mini spool in the rear works beter for me that way. seems smoother too. as a tow rig or everyday driver I dont think it would bee too good. not too much control when towing i would think. you need it to unlock smoothly with a load back there. just an opinion.
 
a mini spool doesn't unlock tho. the only thing smoother was the lack of locking & unlocking. You were actually wearing the tires out faster.
 
I have one of those in my 4x4. it was made my lock right, but it is the same thing.



I have been running mine for over 12 yrs, and with about 100 more hp than they recommend



I've sent several emails to Lock-Rite's (or whatever they're called) Tech Assist asking if my (see sig) HP & TQ will destroy the unit and/or asked for what they rate them at . . . no reply at all. This concerns me - you know customer service - lack there of. If they can't answer a question to help you spend your money- how much will they help after you've spent your money? ? ? #@$%!
 
I've sent several emails to Lock-Rite's (or whatever they're called) Tech Assist asking if my (see sig) HP & TQ will destroy the unit and/or asked for what they rate them at . . . no reply at all. This concerns me - you know customer service - lack there of. If they can't answer a question to help you spend your money- how much will they help after you've spent your money? ? ? #@$%!



Joe Mc contact DTS - Drive Train Specialists and they can give you all the info you need.
 
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