Power Wagon Fuel Injector Instalation

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I will be installing my new injectors this weekend. I have a few questions for the guys who have already done this. The factory service manual says the throttle linkage assembly, the high pressure fuel lines(both ends) and the fuel drain manifold lines have to be completely removed,is this true?
Once the injector nut is backed off do you need an injector puller to remove the injector from the head?
Are there any tips you would recommend to someone who has not done this before?
Thanks!
Gene
92 350 4x4

 

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Here ya go Gene, I will give you my self-taught diesel mechanic instuctions for this installation:

• unbolt all connection of fuel lines to injectors
• remove Dodge Cummins... . etc. plate from valve cover (as you will need to move some of the fuel lines out of the way)
• remove the nuts from the injectors(the big ones: deep well socket is handy!)
• position fuel lines out of the way for each injector as you go (dont be afraid to bend them a little, but not too much!)
• to get each injector out, use a set of pliers (vise grips are a handy item) to grab the injector, turn and wiggle it out. Some can be difficult. I had to use some force for this step. The injector will turn some. They have a ball like a ratchet uses to hold a socket. (as you will probably notice on the new injectors)
• The new injectors should push down right in place (wouldn't hurt to leave one old one in to compare and make sure the new ones are down the whole way)
• once the injectors are in, bolt the fuel lines back on, and your ready to burn some tire!

*if you didn't get new banjo fittings(recommended), make sure not to loose the original ones.
*Don't forget your "Cummins" valve cover badge!

There you have it Gene, plain and simple. Pretty easy (This 20 year old punk figured this out his own so don't worry, it's easy!)
When you start your truck and rev it up for the first time, it will sound like a big V-8 detroit diesel with dual 6" strait stacks while the fuel pushes the air out of the lines! If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Let me know how your installation goes by posting back or E-mailing me. I love BOMBing stories!

Oh yeah: I know they say to turn your fuel back to stock but, I wasn't happy at the stock setting (not enough smoke and power!) so, set it back to stock, then drive it after the installation. You may want to play with some different pump settings. My fuel screw is approximately 1 turn in and diaphram stayed at max.

Have fun, hope this will help you and don't toast them tires to fast!
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Burkey

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Mine: '93 250 LE 4x4 5spd 4:10 Pwr win/loc/mir,cruise,strait piped,12cm2 turbo,pyro/boost,diamond plate tool box, CB, 16x10" AR rims, 285/75/16 Bf goodrich, US Gear E-Brake,Fuller Roadranger shifter, PW injectors, K&N. "wirenut_21529" on Yahoo Messenger
Moms:'96 Ford B-Series school bus (5. 9 Cummins!)I'm gonna Bomb it!
Dads:'94 GMC 2500 6. 5L Turbo

 

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Gene, thanks for asking the question above. I was about to ask the same thing. I'm going to order a set of injectors and was wondering how hard they would be to replace.



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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear with gear locker, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K

 

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I think a lot of us have been sitting on the fence about replacing our injectors. Its time to act!
Good luck to all. Lets wake up these 1st Gens!
Gene

 

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Never having done this and reading the manual it does seem like a do-able project. The service manual appears to give all the answers, but I find I am constantly jumping back and forth. In addition to the items that Gene listed the manual states that after the installation of the injectors, air has to be bled from the high pressure lines.

So you experienced types give us some tips and hands on experience.

 

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HOLD ON A MOMENT FELLAS!!!! Wirenut's Directions are good, but remember to clean up and blow off the head and area with comressed air. You can't be too clean when working with these things. Just imagine watching a little speckle of anything going into that hole! I'm not saying we aren't tidy with our Babies, But I just shampooed last week and It got quite grimy in a not too long a time.

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'92 W250,3. 54,auto,reg cab, raven hi top cap, tach,boost,transtemp,pyro. 16cm housing.

 

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If the injectors are hard yo get out you can put a nut on top of the injector where the fuel line came off and pry up and they come out real easy that way

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92W250,auto,3. 54,16cm2,JRE injectors,borgeson joint,3 1/2 dynomax race magnum ex. ,addco sway bars,seatco seat,peeling white & silver,K&N filter, Isspro boost&pyro

 

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Hi Gene.

Wirenut covered it pretty well.

I used the Cummins injector puller and all six took about 5 minutes.

When you reinstall the injector drain manifold get all the little screws to start significantly before the final tightening. They crossthread easily.

To bleed just reinstall the lines on the pump fully (if you disconnect them) and leave them loose on the injectors then crank the engine until there is fuel coming out then tighten all the way and start the engine. It will run rough but clear up quick.

There is a "land" where the copper washer seats and make sure there is no crud on it so the seal will be good. You have to use a light and crawl up to see down NO. 's 5 & 6.

I set my timing at the same time I relaced my injectors and it tripled the time to do the job. I used the "Head Installed" method in the service manual to find TDC. The timing pin was off some 4 crankshaft degrees-not much.

When I installed my injectors I left the pump at the turned up settings (max diaphragm, loose diaphragm spring, AFC screw turned in and full load screw at about stock) for a trip around the block then turned the diaphragm back halfway betweem stock and max (to cut smoke) as the only change. WOW!!

Over the last 3 months I have arrived at the following settings for the following reasons:

1) AFC "smoke" screw backed off completely- Plenty of fuel at off idle and low rpms already.

2) Diaphragm turned to max rate position-I greedily wanted all the midrange power I could get.

3) Diaphragm spring very tight (star wheel one turn down from "no threads showing"-I found I had, with the diaphragm at full rate, MUCH more fuel at the low end than was needed but it would clear away very well by 15 psi. I tightened the spring to match boost fuel more proportional to the need for more fuel during midrange run up through the gears. At first I set it at "no threads showing" but there was a "flatness" right in the middle of the RPM band during acceleration, like you had to wait for the engine to catch its breath. A turn down from that setting on the star wheel made the transition from the bascic fuel setting to full power smooth and constant.

4) Full load screw about one turn in from stock-Not liking the idea that there was some available top end power (and midrange as it turned out) that was untapped I turned the screw a FULL TURN in. WOW WOW WOW. Lots of smoke can be made while lugging the engine but it clears to a nice solid stream of dark grey smoke at full power.
By driving normal almost no smoke appears, but when you need the power it is all there.

I wish you complete sucess and look forward to your post PW injector posts!




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'93 W350 Club Cab, Bright White, 5 sp. , 130K, Factory Options: LE, 4. 10 Limited Slip, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Mods: Banks stinger plus, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck ball, 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller, POWER WAGON injectors-WAY faster than stock!.

 

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Well guys there in. What a differance they make! The exhaust gas temp (pre-turbo) would never get above 900 degrees now it's 1150. Max boost I'll find out Monday morning on the way to work. My star wheel and pump diaphram are still at stock setting. The full load screw is in 1/2 turn from stock. I can see from Wirenut's last post there are a lot of adustments that I havn't tried yet.
These Power Wagon Injectors really work.
For my installation I borrowed the injector puller and bore cleaning brush from my local dealer for the weekend(will your dealer loan you tools). The puller made it a snap to get the old injectors out. Number 6 injector had a lot of surface rust on the shaft.
I started with the first three cylinders removing all the high pressure fule line clamps, this takes an 8 mm wrench. I removed the valve cover on number 1 cylinder, this allows for more movement of the fuel lines when trying to move them out of the way to back off the injector body nut(the first three cylinder fuel lines pass between 1 and 2 valve covers). The fuel line nut on the top of the injector is 17 mm. The fuel drain manifold bolt is 10 mm. I removed the first four fuel drain bolts so that the fuel drain manifold had enough play to move it out of the way. The injector body nut takes a deep well 15/16" socket. When replacing the injector lightly oil the body insert it in the hole and rotate the injector until the notch on the side of the injector finds the depression in the head, when its in the injector will not rotate any more. Put some never seeze on the injector body nut and torque the nut to 44 ftlbs. Finger tighten the high pressure fuel line nut. Reinstall all the high pressure fuel line clamps, once they are on tighten the high pressure fuel line nut. I did not reattach the fuel manifold drain lines at this time. I removed the high pressure fuel clamps for cylinders 4 through 6. I remove number 4 valve cover for the same reason number 1 was remover(fuel lines for 4 through 6 pass between 4 and 5). I Remove the rest of the fuel drain manifold bolts and replace the other injectors. I kept the ends of the injectors covered while the fuel lines were off. Remember to use new fuel drain manifold bolt washers and new dust washers,these fit into the top of the injector body nut.
When first starting it ran ruogh for just a minute or so then smoothed right out. As long as the high pressure fuel lines are nut lossen at the injector pump end I think restarting will not be a problem.
I hope every one else has an easy installation and are happy with the new injectors.
Gene
92 350 4x4

 

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Glad to hear they're in and running good Gene. I'm sure you'll agree that for the cost and effort these Power Wagon injectors are THE way to go.

 

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Awesome, Gene!
Keep us posted on the EGT and boost. What turbo housing are you using? I've flat pulled with all she's got since the upgrade but I haven't been able to scratch up the cash for the gauges yet. I'd sure be interested to know what your EGT is on a hard pull with a big load.
I've shared all the info I could in other threads but it would be great to hear more from some of you who have gauges. From the sound of things in the thread about the group purchase of the PW injectors, there should be some good info coming in the near future. Hope everyone is as happy as I've been.

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'93 W250, LE, CC, 4x4, 5spd. , Cummins, K&N, 16cm turbo, Power Wagon injectors, Professionaly rebuilt and calibrated pump, straight exhaust, Lund visor w/lights, 5th wheel, Gooseneck, H. D. rear hitch, Aluminum everything. My Rigs

 

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Don my exhaust turbine housing is 18. 5 sqcm. My 92 is one of the ones that came stock with the 21 sqcm housing. I replaced it with the 18. 5 4 or 5 years ago( this was before every one start using the 16's). I sent it to Jet Hot and had it coated. It still looks brand new. I guess I should change to a 16 or 14 housing.
Gene
92 350 4x4

 

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Gene,

Talk to us abvout the performance gains. Is ther a noticeable differnece?? Tell us all about it. Sounds like you need the 16 or the 14 cm turbo housing.

later
Don

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1989 D 250 Ice blue met. 5 spd 3. 54, 140,000, Banks stage III powerpack straight exhaust, pump adjustments, still looking for more power in the form of new injectors
1999 3500 4x4 Chassis cab Emerald green ISB 5 spd 4. 10 K&N Filter straight exhaust 9 ft flatbed WARN fenderflares,Let, 275hp injectors installed, boost and pyro gages, VA plug'n power Love it, Jacobs E brake
May buy another one in 2009!!

 

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Just finished the install of my PW injectors on Saturday and am pleasantly pleased. Thanks again Powerwagon for the personal delivery and taking time out from your family vacation to find me. The installation went smoothly. The more I drive it the more impressed I am with the performance increase. This is great considering it still has the 21. 5 housing and stock pump settings. The only other mods are K&N filter and BD 3. 5" exhaust. I wasn't going to bother with anything else, but with the amount of power increase my brain is starting to work-- hmmm let's see,tweaked pump,16 turbo housing---- the possibilities are scarey. Thanks again Mark; you're awsome!
Led.

 

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These P. W. Injectors are the REAL THING!
With no load it makes 25-26 lbs of boost. This old dually gets up and goes. In traffic it is very easy to keep up with the flow with just a light throttle. I will be going to the darg strip soon to compare before and after times, will keep everone posted. I recommend these injectors to anyone interested in MORE POWER!
Gene
92 350 4x4

 

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I have the PW injectors, the 16cm2 housing and gauges, the pyrometer is after the turbo, my pump is set at factory spec's.
I went to Utah in August with my 31' TT and two ATV's, with misc stuff. My weight was just under 18,000 lbs and on a hard pull, my boost was 22 1/2 lbs, pryometer temps generally were in the 950 degree area, but did reach 1050 a couple of times.

Rodney

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92 2500 Reg. Cab LE
Dark Spectrum Blue and Silver 4x4 Auto
PW Injectors, 225,000 miles
16cm2 housing, Isspro guages.