pre screen filter replacement

[PHaller]

I called the local Dodge dealer and asked if they carry the o ring gasket and filter for the 12 valve pre screen fuel filter. They had no clue as to what I was asking for. I finally, in desperation, drove down to the dealer and poured over their diagrams and found the kit part # and asked the price ,it includes the pre screen filter a stamped nut and an o ring. They said that it would have to be ordered and it was 42$ and 3 days. I left the dealership in dismay and drove home and placed a call to Cummins west San leandro.
I asked if they stocked it and the answer was an enfatic YES. I further inquired as to price. 5. 23$ they answered. Wow, what a deal. I asked if they would ship it direct to my address and how much the total would be and how long. They said 1 day and the total including shipping would be 8. 50$.
They were right. It arrived late the next day and at a total of 8. 50$.
I proceeded to remove and clean the boal and check the screen for debris. There apeared to be a fair amount of metal particles and a large chunk of felt in the screen but no dirt or flakes and the whole job took 10 minutes from start to finish. It took longer to crawl under the truck then it did to replce the parts and reassemble. The only caveat was fuel running down my arm and into the oil change tub.
I pumped the primer button after changing and after 10 or so strokes I fired it up and it ran flawlessly.
I don't really think it needed changing... probably just a cleaning would work fine but since I had the parts and for 9 dollars to the door, I replaced the screen, nut, and o ring. The square cut O ring had started to deteriorate at the outside corner closest to the block and was also probably ok to reuse if I had to.
All in all, an easy 1 on the scale from 1 to 10.
-Paul R. Haller-

 

[Cooker]

Do you have the Cummins part number. Last time I took mine off for a cleaning the O-ring was in rough shape, still no leaks though. I wouldn't mind having one on hand for future use.
Thanks, Ryan

 

[RHARVEY]

OK. . now for the $64,000 question. What is the part numbers that you ordered. I called my local Cummins dealer and they had no idea what I was talking about. I want to do the same thing but really didn't want to try it until I had a new gasket in hand to replace the old one. One of the other members said that he has cleaned the screen a number of times and has used the same gasket again. Could you post the numbers so that I can order them.
Thanks
Rick

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RICK
97 2500,CC,5 SPEED, 3. 54 Limited Slip,Psychotty System,K&N, Pre-Turbo ISSPRO 3" Pyrometer & Boost Guage,Silencer Ring Removed
12,000 RBW 5th Wheel Hitch,25' Excel 5th Wheel,Rancho RSX17000 Shocks,Amsoil Dealer,Straight Piped

[This message has been edited by RHARVEY (edited 02-23-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

Good job Paul,I try to clean mine once a year(about 30k)it's always been totally clean,but it only takes one bad tank of fuel to change that. I'm still on the same screen and O-ring after 5 times.
I was talking to a fellow who's screen totally clogged then caved in,all the crud passed on into his transfer(lift)pump and ruined it. He was only getting 12 mpg before it happened. That goes to show me that cleaning the screen is a service not to be ignored.
Installing a fuel pressure gauge can give an indication if the screen is plugging,but you should clean the screen at the same time you install the gauge to establish a baseline fuel pressure. If the pressure drops,change the main filter,if that doesn't improve it clean the screen,still no improvement check the over flow valve. Around 22 psi is right for a 12 valve.
If your heater screen is full of crud it might also be a good idea to check the fuel tank module screen also,which involves dropping the tank or raising the bed,if it also proves to be clogged you had better flush the tank out also and watch where you are getting fuel.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[PHaller]

You guys wanted it so here it is: Fleetguard P/N 38454000-us. Right on the bubble pack direct from Cummins. It includes the square cut O ring ,a screen and a stamped nut.
-Paul R. Haller-

 

[PHaller]

Mopar part # 04762962 Same stuff as above except the price. Dodge price: 43. 00$
Cummins fleetguard # 38454000 5. 23$
-Paul R. Haller-

 

[PHaller]

I should also add that the job takes a 19 mm wrench to remove and replace the boal and a 24 mm wrench to remove and replace the screen and stamped nut. Put a little diesel on the o ring before assembly. Nothing was really very tight... so I put it back togeather with a light touch.
-Paul R. Haller-

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Good find Paul. #ad
I wish I had known the pre-filter kit was available from Fleetguard. The Dodge dealer price is crazy.

Just the O-ring is not availabe from Dodge at least. There was an issue of the TDR where a member matched the O-ring up with one from Home Depot. He had the p/n and size listed. I can't find the issue.

There are good pictures & tech help here for guys that have not done their Pre-filter yet: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 02-23-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

You can also make your own O-rings,I do it all the time for many applications including 2500 psi hydraulic systems,never a problem. You can purchase bulk O-ring material from NAPA,all sizes,square and round,under 50¢ a foot. Cut it square to the length you need with a razor,make sure the ends stay clean,then connect with a very small amount of super glue on one side. It takes a steady hand and you must get it right the first time,super glue doesn't work if you try to adjust it after the first contact. After the glue sets up you can stretch the o-ring like a rubber band,it will not break at the joint.
The pre-screen should last the life of the truck,no need to replace.

 

[RBrunson]

Paul, thanks for the part number. I just cleaned mine today and I could use another gasket. By the way the proper name for it is Quad-ring, O-rings are round, quad-rings are square. (four sides) also Pie are round, corn bread are square. #ad
#ad


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Ron

'96 4x2 2500 Garnet/Driftwood Auto,3. 54,K&N,Cobra, 93 TT Terry 29L,'84 VW Rabbit diesel,

 

[mikepvg]

Since this thread seems to have all the good pn's for the pre-filter stuff, I'll add one more difficult to obtain pn. It took a few hours & one incorrect delivery but was well worth the effort.

When replacing the pre-filter screen quad ring gasket... If it shows signs of deterioration, don't forget about the OTHER quad ring which seals the TOP of the heater element. After you remove the pre-filter bowl, you'll have access to the allen screw that will allow the heater element removal. All can be accessed from top of engine compartment. My quad ring had compressed out & lost its resiliency.
The pre-filter screen kit has the quad ring for the BOTTOM of the heater element & is a different size than the top one.
I replaced BOTH quad rings & reduced the amt of blue smoke on start up & WOT substantially.
The PN is Fleetguard 3834185-S & cost only . 66 cents from Cummins! Shipping will cost more & Cummins will have it to you next day.
Mike
#ad


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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD 4X4 RWAL w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, DiPricol Boost/Pyro/Fuel, Mag-Hytec Rear, 124K miles. Halon Protected, NRA Member. V1.

 

[BCFAST]

Pardon my ignorance... where is this pre-filter? How often should it be cleaned/replaced?

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54, 5spd, Green, #12 plate, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, RS 9000's, PrimeLoc, Red Tops, TDR cloisonae grill badge!

 

[TKemper]

BCFAST, the pre-filter is located inside the fuel heater. It's a mesh screen that filters the fuel just prior to going to the lift pump. The fuel heater is located on the left side of the engine just forward of the lift pump. The two are connected with a short elbow shaped piece of fuel line. Once you've found the fuel heater, you can remove the bowl with a 19mm wrench or socket. The 19mm nut on the bottom of the bowl is attached to the bowl, it's all one piece, so just turn it counterclockwise to remove and you'll find the pre-filter inside the bowl. One word of caution, as soon as the bowl begins to loosen stuff some rags around it to absorb some of the diesel that will leak out. Hope this helps. Todd

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97 2500HD 4x4 ST 12v, K&N,16cm, 4" Jardine turbo to tail,Auto Wurks tuned pump,man trans filter, McLeod clutch, LSD with 3. 54's and Amsoil, AGR power steering box and pump, Borgeson steering shaft, Skyjacker 2" leveling kit, Rancho RS9000's, dual RS5000 steering stabilizers, AR Outlaw II wheels with 33x12. 5 Bridgestone Desert Duellers, Lund visor, Ventvisors, Glasstite HiRise cap, aluminum tailgate protector, illuminated bumper guide poles, Cobra CB, Wilson 5000 antenna, Alpine CD, Infinity spkrs, Fosgate amp with 8" Bazooka tubes, and Husky floor liners. 16. 247 @ 87. 52mph quarter mile at 6700lbs