Prelubber for Cummins 5.9B

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Is anybody able to provide any imformation on prelubber kits, manufacture's of kits or components? Thanks.

1996,ExtCab,LongBed,Auto,K&N,TST#8,TranTemp,
Boost and EGT Gauges,PillarMount,3. 54Rear, Aux Primary Fuel Filter.

 

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Check thread over in 24v engine and drive train section. I got one from Sales Professionals, Inc. 1-800-836-8601. I would see if they offer a extended warranty. Make sure you get the 3/4" supply line from the sump. Its a pricey unit.

 

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They're way noisy, and I just have to say (as with all things like this and bypass kits) that when you add extra lines and fittings to the lifeblood of your engine, you're adding extra chance for leaks and ruptures to occur. The hose that feeds your turbo is enough of an appendage for me. There's also one on the injection pump. I've seen these engines with up to 800,000 miles on them and the particular one I'm talking about didn't have a preluber and it was running in-spec compression. I don't see the need for it unless you don't plan on using it for weeks at a time. I have a preluber on my engine--the starter. I wired my shutoff/run solenoid to a toggle switch as an anti theft device, and to prelube after a weeks' vacation or so, I keep the switch off and crank the engine for a few seconds until I see the gauge move. Engine is prelubed, safely, without the dangers of combustion on a "dry" engine.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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I was thinking about this too,because my oil presure takes about 4-5 seconds to come up after I start it. This whole time the engine is running with 0 oil pressure. At first I thought it was just the sending unit taking time to register,but you can here the difference in the engine when it finally comes up. It really quiets down as soon as the oil pressure comes up. Is it normal to take this long for the pressure to come up, seems to me I'm creating alot more wear running that long with no pressure every morning. Also it's done it since I bought it,so the Amsoil has nothing to do with it.

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1997 2500 4x4,Auto,Cal. e. g. r. (for now),3. 54's,Amsoil throughout,DiPricol egt/trans temp/boost gauges,ready for more power

 

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All engines start up with zero oil pressure. You don't see it on the gauge because the gauge doesn't pick up small graduations of pressure. It doesn't matter what oil you're using. The sound you hear is the oil pump pushing the initial mass of cold, thick oil throughout.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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I'm not sure wich issue it was. I think it was titled "If it aint broke don't fix it". But a guy had one of those prelubers on his ram. One of those fittings came apart while on the road. Lost oil pressure and did severe engine damage. I believe the bill came out to around $6000. 00 bucks.

 

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The oil left in the engine at shutdown is enough to protect moving parts for the short time of low PSI and low stress of startup.

But, If you are like my neighbor and start your cold engine with the throttle on the floor, you just might need a preluber #ad


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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

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Jeff and Larry... . You're my kind of guys... . If you didn't live on the other end of the country, I'd offer you to come on over for dinner... ... . Diesels do like cross country driving though, and I always wanted to see the west coast. Seriously, you guys are right. It is overall better to use what the engine has instead of (just a rough estimate) 14 filters cleaning the same 11 quarts of oil for 20 years with a maze of oil lines just rubbing away at themselves, the pulleys, bolts etc. All those lines are the difference between a running engine and destruction. Why tempt fate? Use what Cummins Inc has given you to lubricate and filter the engine with. They haven't gotten it wrong over all these years. #ad


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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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Hey guys thanks for your inputs on this matter,i just hate to hear all that clatter when first starting up. Since i started useing Amsoil it seems it takes longer for the oil pressure to kick in. When I start the engine, I let it idle as low as possible till the pressure comes up then I increase r. p. m. I see your points about more lines more potential problems and point well taken. I think i'll try Chris Timochko method. Thanks again to all.

[This message has been edited by BillTanziniSr (edited 11-15-2000). ]

 

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All that clatter his harm less. Sometimes it does sound like a piston will wanna go through the hood. Remember these engines ARE TOUGH. Its like those Timex commercials " Takes A Licken and Keeps On Rattlin. "