Preparing to remove dash, replace heater core, evap, and dash cover

[RDMueller]

Have a leaking heater core and poor airflow overall from the HVAC as well as a badly cracking dash. So I plan to take care of everything while I’m in there. I’ve ordered the aftermarket dash as well as a new evap from Genos. They don’t currently carry 2nd gen heater cores, so I’ll try to find one locally. I already replaced the heater core about 6 years ago, but to do that I didn’t actually remove the dash, just pulled it back enough for access. This time since I’m replacing the evap as well, the entire HVAC unit will obviously need to come out.

Just looking for any advice or tips from anyone who’s done this job. Especially interested in knowing if it’s best or necessary to completely remove the dash from the truck to replace the dash cover. If so, can’t remember if the steering wheel has to be removed to remove the dash (since I never actually removed it last time).

Also, while I have the HVAC unit out, anything else I should look for or proactively replace? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Btw, truck is a 2001.5 2wd 5 speed.

 

[DavidC]

Replaced the dash top in the truck. I dropped the steering wheel to the seat although I seem to think it didn't help much.

 

[RDMueller]

Replaced the dash top in the truck. I dropped the steering wheel to the seat although I seem to think it didn't help much.

Thanks, good to know! Then it probably won’t be that much different than what I did last time except for removing the HVAC box.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Replaced the dash top in the truck. I dropped the steering wheel to the seat although I seem to think it didn't help much.

I'm slow to understand your comment. "I dropped the steering wheel to the seat"?

 

[DavidC]

I'm slow to understand your comment. "I dropped the steering wheel to the seat"?

Unbolted the column so the wheel was sitting on the cushion.

 

[RDMueller]

I'm slow to understand your comment. "I dropped the steering wheel to the seat"?

Yep, this (from my first time) shows the dropped steering wheel

 

[Iron Duke II]

Unbolted the column so the wheel was sitting on the cushion.

Thanks.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Yep, this (from my first time) shows the dropped steering wheelView attachment 127274

Thanks.

 

[NIsaacs]

The core is still available from Mopar if you want to stay oem.

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-core-heater~4720008.html

 

[RDMueller]

The core is still available from Mopar if you want to stay oem.

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-core-heater~4720008.html

Awesome, thank you! I haven’t been having the best luck with some after market parts. Not a huge deal when it’s something easy to change like the water pump. But when it involves pulling the dash, I’d rather go oem.

 

[bcbender]

Not sure on a second gen but on a third gen, the dash comes out as an assembly, just remove the steering column and then the IP in one piece (its much easier to work on th bench).. I made the mistake of taking it apart piece by piece, but the manual shows removing a few harness plugs and a 1/2 dozen bolts and out it comes all in one piece. Just have a buddy or two to help you snake it out the driver door. (I took my seats out to make it easier and rebuilt the motors on both dr / pass that were acting up also)

 

[Joe Mc]

I did mine "twice". 1st time I replaced Evap and heater core. Bought parts from Dodge Dealer. Heater core and Evap both off-shore junk. Heater core was defective and leaked. Won't get into all the BS I got from Dealer. 2nd time was to replace defective heater core. about an 8 hour job. Best bet, of course unplug both batteries 1st, remove column from the cab totally (just makes it easier to work inside the truck). Follow FSM instructions. With the std trans you might want to remove the shifter shaft, placing a rag over the open hole in trans before doing anything else. Whole dash doesn't have to come out, remove screws at windshield base, loosen (do not remove) bolts on bottom left & right sides of dash, have someone hold the driver side, you on pass side, as you both lift the bottom off of the loosened bottom bolts, driver side just lift off and hold (follow your lead), you lean top back and leaving driver side as is (might have to support with a block of wood or a few pillows so not to strain any wires), you rest passenger side on seat. Lots of wires etc on driver side that you don't want to screw up for sure. When you're ready to install dash, you take the driver side to make sure you're not pinching any wires between metal etc. "DO NOT" over tighten the screws at the base of the windshield and install "ALL" a few turns "BEFORE" tightening and one screw, sung from middle to one side then other and so forth till they're "ALL" snug then tighten from center out side by side. Another thing you should consider is seeing if you can acquire the foam seals for the heater box and for sure clean it up real good. Lot's of wires/grounds in ending compartment where you'll be working on removing nuts so make sure you tag each wire eyelet and where it goes so you don't have to try to remember where.

Take your time, do walk-aways when you get frustrated (you will, I did) and come back in 10 minutes or so. I did this job in my driveway over the corse of 2 days.

Be sure to evacuate the A/C side real good - if you don't have a vacuum pump and gauge manifold, take it to someone you know to have proper evacuation and recharge (weighted-in based on number of pounds/ounces stated on A/C charge sticker/FSM) performed.

Hope this helps. Not a fun job. But once it's done (hopefully, but not in my case until the second go round) it's done.

 

[RDMueller]

I did mine "twice". 1st time I replaced Evap and heater core. Bought parts from Dodge Dealer. Heater core and Evap both off-shore junk. Heater core was defective and leaked. Won't get into all the BS I got from Dealer. 2nd time was to replace defective heater core. about an 8 hour job. Best bet, of course unplug both batteries 1st, remove column from the cab totally (just makes it easier to work inside the truck). Follow FSM instructions. With the std trans you might want to remove the shifter shaft, placing a rag over the open hole in trans before doing anything else. Whole dash doesn't have to come out, remove screws at windshield base, loosen (do not remove) bolts on bottom left & right sides of dash, have someone hold the driver side, you on pass side, as you both lift the bottom off of the loosened bottom bolts, driver side just lift off and hold (follow your lead), you lean top back and leaving driver side as is (might have to support with a block of wood or a few pillows so not to strain any wires), you rest passenger side on seat. Lots of wires etc on driver side that you don't want to screw up for sure. When you're ready to install dash, you take the driver side to make sure you're not pinching any wires between metal etc. "DO NOT" over tighten the screws at the base of the windshield and install "ALL" a few turns "BEFORE" tightening and one screw, sung from middle to one side then other and so forth till they're "ALL" snug then tighten from center out side by side. Another thing you should consider is seeing if you can acquire the foam seals for the heater box and for sure clean it up real good. Lot's of wires/grounds in ending compartment where you'll be working on removing nuts so make sure you tag each wire eyelet and where it goes so you don't have to try to remember where.

Take your time, do walk-aways when you get frustrated (you will, I did) and come back in 10 minutes or so. I did this job in my driveway over the corse of 2 days.

Be sure to evacuate the A/C side real good - if you don't have a vacuum pump and gauge manifold, take it to someone you know to have proper evacuation and recharge (weighted-in based on number of pounds/ounces stated on A/C charge sticker/FSM) performed.

Hope this helps. Not a fun job. But once it's done (hopefully, but not in my case until the second go round) it's done.

Thanks for the info, definitely helpful! One question, you said you got offshore junk from the dealer the first time, what did you do the next time? I always figured most of the cheap aftermarket stuff was from auto parts stores or online, eBay etc. whereas from the dealer you’d be able to get OEM. I get that some OEM is junk like the stock Carter lift pump or the cracking dash covers, but overall I’ve had better luck with OEM. I’d like my 2nd time pulling the dash to be my last!

 

[DavidC]

I like my Carter pump, still going at 95k. Of course I ran those and Holley Blues in the gassers with no problems either. I am one that believes Carter has gotten a bad rap anyway when there could have been other problems like the cannister strainers as there are two and one of those nobody even knew was there.

 

[RDMueller]

I like my Carter pump, still going at 95k. Of course I ran those and Holley Blues in the gassers with no problems either. I am one that believes Carter has gotten a bad rap anyway when there could have been other problems like the cannister strainers as there are two and one of those nobody even knew was there.

Maybe Carter improved their pumps at some point, all I know is that the vast majority of VP44 failures were due to failed lift pumps. I replaced mine in 07 with a Raptor 100 and never had another problem since. Have a fuel pressure gauge too, but that almost seems unnecessary now considering the reliability of the Raptor.

 

[DavidC]

Maybe Carter improved their pumps at some point, all I know is that the vast majority of VP44 failures were due to failed lift pumps. I replaced mine in 07 with a Raptor 100 and never had another problem since. Have a fuel pressure gauge too, but that almost seems unnecessary now considering the reliability of the Raptor.

Yes but when they did the in tank pump it is a new module so who is to say they did not have the same problem with the cannister as I had twice. Just sayin.

 

[RDMueller]

Well I ordered the heater core from Mopar Parts Giant and then a day later I get an email saying, “this part is no longer available.” So I guess I’m back to square one. Keith at Genos told me there are no OEMs available anywhere and it sure looks like he’s right about that. Ton of aftermarket options out there but most of them have the swivel pipes, that just seems like another likely failure point and totally unnecessary in my case since I’ll be removing the plenum.

So, anyone out there find a high quality aftermarket heater core without swivel pipes? I plan to keep this truck and don’t want to do the job again in a few years.

 

[Cole Dean]

Unless you're going to pull the entire HVAC plenum you will want swivel pipes. Ive had swivel pipe cores in my 01 for 200K, and my 07 for about 100k. Napa cores.

 

[RDMueller]

Unless you're going to pull the entire HVAC plenum you will want swivel pipes. Ive had swivel pipe cores in my 01 for 200K, and my 07 for about 100k. Napa cores.

In my case the plenum is coming out because I’m replacing the evap as well. But glad to know you’ve had good luck with Napa cores and no leaks from the swivel joints. That’s probably what I’ll do, have had good luck with Napa overall.

 

[Cole Dean]

In my case the plenum is coming out because I’m replacing the evap as well. But glad to know you’ve had good luck with Napa cores and no leaks from the swivel joints. That’s probably what I’ll do, have had good luck with Napa overall.

Hopefully yours looks better than mine did