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Pressure Washer

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I have a couple out buildings on the property that need re-painting and wondering if anyone has any experience with using a pressure washer to remove paint. I've heard that it can be done with high enough PSI.
The unit I'm looking at is a 6.5HP gas rated at 3100 PSI. Would this be adequate to do the job?
Any thoughts, recommendations are greatly appreciated.
thanks gregg
 
For paint removal I use a wider spray "fan". The narrower the fan the more possible damage to the wood. The PSI you have should be adequate, but the volume of water may not. I've not had good luck with an older washer that was about 2GPM max. I now use a 13 HP, 4000 psi, 4GPM unit with great results. You need the flow to wash away the crud. So, what you have may or may not work...I'm not sure.

Also, be sure to give the wood plenty of time to dry before painting it. - obvious, but I figured I'd state it....
 
Are they wood buildings? If so, I would not recommend beating them to death with a power washer, as it will gouge out the lignin, and leave the cellulose fuzz, which is unsightly, but also a poor substrate to hold paint.
 
For paint removal I use a wider spray "fan". The narrower the fan the more possible damage to the wood. The PSI you have should be adequate, but the volume of water may not. I've not had good luck with an older washer that was about 2GPM max. I now use a 13 HP, 4000 psi, 4GPM unit with great results. You need the flow to wash away the crud. So, what you have may or may not work...I'm not sure.

Also, be sure to give the wood plenty of time to dry before painting it. - obvious, but I figured I'd state it....
The unit I'm looking at is rated at 3.0 GPM...think that would be sufficient?
 
Good Chance it will be ok. If the paint doesn't come off easily, and you keep trying to get it off, you will end up with what TFucili says.
 
Are they wood buildings? If so, I would not recommend beating them to death with a power washer, as it will gouge out the lignin, and leave the cellulose fuzz, which is unsightly, but also a poor substrate to hold paint.
Yes the buildings are wood framed. I'll pay attention to not getting carried away. The reason I'm going this route is the height with the lowest at 18' up to 23'.
 
Also, the more bare wood you have the more important it is to prime with an old-school long oil primer like Benjamin Moore Moorwhite primer. Acrylic top coats are great, but nothing will penetrate, and bind a marginal wood surface like a long oil primer.
 
Mine is a 3200psi 3gal/ph, basically will do anything I ask of it.

Has the quick disconnect hoses, 7hp Kohler.

Yeah don't ever think about using the red adapter for wood, the yellow works well. That might be 25 deg, forget all the colors but they are standard heads.

I always connect the hose to the bib let it run to flush the line, then connect to the unit, and connect that hose. Same deal just run the water flush the line. Then connect the gun, same, put the tip on then.

You'd be amazed how how much little stuff gets in the end of the hoses when you just roll them up.

I don't let mine run dead head for very long, running with out spraying.

Just did some this weekend on my front walk.

Be real careful it will tear you up. Lots of injuries with pressure washers, aside from tearing up wood and trex decking.

Pressure washing on overcast or light drizzle days helps alot in water consumption.

My well can't keep up for hours of pressure washing I have to be careful with my well and the pressure washer. It will pull up silica if I dona super deep drain of the well.

Then you have issues with everything else in the house like the washer and toliet valves jamming up, not fun.

I also wear a rain suit as its gets super messy in a hurry.

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As usual, Tim makes a lot of good points.

If you are not familiar with a pressure washer - yes - never let it run long w/o water flow. It heats up the water and can ruin the pump. Some have thermal bypass blow off valves that, when the water gets too hot, blows off water (you and everything gets wet) to cool the pump. It shuts off when it senses cool water. If this happens, you already damaged the pump some.

Some units have a bypass valve to allow the unit to be started easier when there is water in it. Some don't. For the ones that don't you can hold the handle of the wand open to make it easier to pull start the motor.

Yes, flush the hoses before you connect. I use a filter to prevent grit from entering the pump.

When washing HARD surfaces you can use a "turbo" nozzle - they are a straight stream unit that oscillates so you clean a wider path, but with more force. You wanna damage wood FAST - use this! :confused:.
Examples - https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_pressure-washers+pressure-washer-accessories+pressure-washer-turbo-nozzles?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=bing_PPC&utm_medium=Pressure Washers&utm_campaign=Pressure Washer Turbo Nozzles_GEN&utm_content=pressure washer turbo nozzle&msclkid=62e4e108a798158cf692bfddf5fc049f&gclid=CJnf5cWo4ekCFXoEiAkdCSsKgQ&gclsrc=ds

When using a turbo nozzle, always start spraying with the nozzle in a downward direction - they are ceramic inside.

Nozzles are rated in GPM - so make sure you get one for your unit.

Need various parts - here is an online source - http://www.ultimatewasher.com/pressure-washers/
https://www.pressurewashersdirect.com/
 
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Thanks guys, lot of great information here! I've had quite a bit of experience with high pressure air and it is to be respected. Only thing I'm not real keen about is using the boom lift to get to the work but that just goes with the program. Why the original owner opted for a wood frame hanger with steel siding and a comp roof is beyond me but I've got to admit they did a nice job.
Thanks again all, I do appreciate the feedback
gregg
 
What Tim And Dan have stated, I would follow. For future use I would apply WET and Forget to the buildings after you have painted them and the paint has dried for a two weeks min.
WHY?
The Wet and Forget will shelf clean the buildings when it rains and the sunlight is shining on the buildings. I use this on my Cedar Sliding and my deck to fight mold and grim. When I power wash the sliding every other year the mold on the upper north side under the soffit is not there, like other homes in my area! I apply Wet and Forget to my deck every six months and once a year to the house.
 
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