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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Problem With a 2000 Freightliner FL-60.

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Hey guys,

I have a buddy with a 2000 FL-60 Rollback with 150,000 miles, and he is having some trouble with it. He says, "When he starts it in the morning, sometimes it will smoke blue and white real bad, sometimes it is just fine. And sometimes when it is hot, and he is trying to get up to speed, if he floors it (when the engine is warm) It will sputter and blow white and blue smoke and has little power. " Well I went and gave it a look see, and couldnt find anything out of the ordinary. So i decided to change the fuel filter, didnt look too bad, little bit of sediment in the canister, nothing too strange. After the filter change, would not start. LIFT PUMP DEAD. Go figure. Well, we got it running, but the DEAD PUMP is still on it. Could the dead pump be causing the above described problem? He has already been thru 3 lift pumps, now 4 and 1 injection pump. I also tried to hold the engine at wide open throttle, it would hold right at 2675 rpms and blow some white smoke. I thought that was not normal.



Any input would be appreciated.



Thanks Jason
 
you bet it's harder to pull fuel from fl-60 tank than from the dodge



i had to put a pusher on my snap-on man's step van built on fl-60

chassis he has run it longer since i put it on than he did with the first 3 lift pumps



-doug
 
TTT

Still having problems with this truck.



We changed out the lift pump, and it is still doing it. It seems to be getting worse.



Now when you take off from a dead stop, the check engine lite comes on and it smokes and lack power real bad. after a few about 10 seconds all is fine. After you come to a complete stop, it will start the cycle all over again.



Any ideas?



I have a tapped banjo on order to get him setup with a F. P. gauge.



Does anyone know how to get the codes out of a freightliner fl-60? Is it anything like our Dodges?



He is well past his warranty, and would like to not have to take it in.



TIA



Jason
 
Have you checked the outlet of the turbo for oil?



Sorry I don't know of any way to pull codes from a Freightliner without a scanner. Have you checked the owners manual it might list a way to get the codes or Freightliners web sight. I know there are ways to pull ABS codes without a scan tool so I would think there would be a way to get engine codes as well.
 
If'n I were to guess, I'd say that the injection pump is toasted.



I don't know if you want to try this, but I've been having great luck with my Summit pump on the frame rail. Perhaps it would be a good idea to give that a try. Although, I haven't made it through a winter with the thing yet, so it may not work so hot after one winter.



This is just my thoughts out loud. Keep us posted dude.
 
I didnt want to hear that Amianthus!!

Thats not what I want to tell him.



Kaffine krazed, i will have to check that, but I dont understand how that could be the cause of his problem. Can you give me a little more info as to why you think that?



I am wondering if it is a intermitent connection somewhere.



Amianthus, I think I may try a pusher pump on his setup. He has not done anything to the motor, except that his drivers are a little abusive. Kinda sad. :( I don't know if that would make a difference thouugh.



Any more ideas, things to check.



Thanks all so far.



Jason
 
Jason, if you can get the check engine light to stay on long enough, you can retrieve the codes as long as the check engine light is on. There should be a diagnostic switch on the dash and when you turn it on it will flash a three digit code such as *** space ****** space ******** and then the check engine light and stop engine light will come on together and it will repeat the sequence. This would be a 368 code. If you hit the cruise control switch accell it will go to the next code if there is one.



The bad news is the code has to be active, otherwise you will need a scan tool like Quickcheck or Insite.



Another thing to do is pull the connector off of the VP-44 and look for discolored pins. Also pull the battery cover and make sure all connections are clean and tight.



If you have a test gauge hooked up , put a ball valve on it and dump the fuel into a bucket whith engine running, and check for air in the fuel this way. You don't want to see even a little foam when the dump valve is submerged in fuel. Do this first!



I don't know if I helped any , but good luck. - A Johnson
 
Thanks for the info A Johnson, I will try that tonite. The contacts looked good, but I will give them another look.



Jason
 
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