Problems past 100K miles

[1stgen4evr]

I would like to find out as much as possible regarding breakdown on trucks that have higher miles. Reading the various comments in the forum it seems that I can expect trouble with the ball joints, but when?



What else is lurking out there.



Come to think of it there are a lot of owners that have not gotten to 100 k yet. For the benefit of these and new oweners buying used trucks with unknown or questionable mileage, it would be useful to include any repair that you can tie to an approximate mileage. Earlier I had offered a comment as to indication of mileage on a used truck other than the odometer which we know CAN be wrong. Prospective buyers would be well served with that information as well.



At about 250K on two of my trucks, the idler tensioner for the serpentine belt went out.



At about 360K the water pump locked up and burned the belt. Lots more expensive on the road than it would have been at home.



Twice (I am a slow learner) I ruined a front rotor by thinking the pads were still ok when they failed and left the rivets grinding into the rotor. This was probably caused also by some nut pulling out in front of me causing a hard stop. This can happen any time.



Stopped in Virginia to fuel up and shut off the engine. When I engaged the keystart, smoked filled the hood. The small wire taped onto the large wire that goes to the starter roasted itself and some other things. This was Sunday and 600$ later and the help of a very accomodating roll back operator, I was back on the road. I don't know to this day what went wrong. I kept the starter and had it check. Nothing wrong.



The diddly little spring clip that holds the emergency cable on the actuator inside the rear brake broke and the result was that I had little or no emergency brake. I have not found a dealer yet that can tell me where to get a new diddly little spring clip. I now have emergency brakes on only one wheel. This happend so long ago that I can't remember the mileage.



The first time that I worked on the rear brakes I realized that there was excessive loosness in the wheel bearings. I noted that the outer bearing race had eroded the axle nut and had "seated itself" into the nut allowing about 1/16 end play. The cause of this is no doubt the loads that I was carrying at the time. Probably too much. I installed the original bearings after carefull inspection and tightened the old nuts to spec. No more problem.



Everybody knows that you don't tow the Getrag. Right. But there are some tow truck drivers that don't give a rip.



The PCM on my 92 hasn't worked well since the first time the truck got rained on. Isn't the TPS. The PCM got worse everytime I got over 300 miles from home. Someone please put together an industrial controller that can replace the Dodge unit.



Jump in with anything you can think of. Im listening.





1stgen4evr

James

 

[sparks57]

Thanks for the info. I've been trying to collect the same info you're trying to get for some time now.



Nobody seems to want to divulge the info though... hopefully you will have better luck.

 

[Case500D]

1stgen,



It is hard to tell what is going to wear out after the first 100K. It really depends on the TLC the truck has recieved. I am fairly confident in saying that the D70 rear axle will need a set of bearings between 150 and 200K if it hasn't been serviced very often. On my W-250, I haven't had any problems other than the previous owner wasn't much on preventative maintenance, other than the engine servicing. The W-350 has been rode hard. The Getrag is shot, the rear end needed a new ring and pinion, and the upper ball joints got replaced. I think AlK did a post on all that he has done to his truck since he bought it. Do a search b/c there is a lot of good information in it. Hope this helps.



Jeremy

 

[1stgen4evr]

past 100K

Thanks CB, Case500



Case brings another thought into the mix. How hard are we using the trucks. How about maintainence. Well maybe some folks don't want to admit just how hard and how neglectfull they have been. Still, I want to hear from any one who will note the repairs they had to do.



Couple of things I forgot.



I had the off /on solonoid on the pump to die at a red light. No warning, just sudden death. That was years ago and I had never heard of TDR so naturally I was on my own. Hard to diagnose, easy to fix. Well almost. Had to bend a wrench just right to change it. Less than 100$.



With my air bags, I can crowd the ujoints and they will fail real fast under those conditions. I have to be careful to lower the pressure as soon as I drop the weight.



Just put a set of "buttons" in the original equipment steering shaft. Cheap and easy 10$ and had I known what the problem was would have done it a long time ago. Don't know if the repair will be satisfactory for any length of time but if not I will do the Borgsen modification. The steering had been sloppy since 150K.



Put a power steering pump on some time back. Don't have the mileage records to say when but I think it was just one of those things. Just started to leak and had to have a rebuilt. Got it from NAPA.



Put a rebuilt NAPA mastercylinder and booster on the oldest truck (around 350K). It leaked and the NAPA guy made it good along with the labor to change it the second time. Don't know about your NAPA guy but mine is a prince.



Had O/Drive, alternator and air conditioning problems with the 92 D350 automatic. I know now that it is the computer. I will readdress that as the guts of that truck go into the four door. That is I will have NO COMPUTER. My gut opinion is that these would be better trucks without the computer. Changed the Thermostat and the fan clutch chasing what I thought was heat problems. I think now it was computer related. Does any one make an aftermarket dual thermostat houseing for thses engines?



My use application is what I would call hard highway miles. Often pull gross up to the 25K limit and go where ever the road is paved and sometimes just a little onto a construction site. My trucks are all two wheel and dual rear. I do ride them hard but I don't put them away wet. I idle till the engine has cooled a bit. I seldom shut off the engine except at night when I am on a trip. Longest trip has been Georgia to Alaska. Have a picture of the welcome to the alaskan highway sign in the current magazine.



The new issue of TDR magazine mentions that information has a shelf life and that they get some of the same questions that have already been answered in earlier issues. I can understand that quite well. I don't have any of those back issues and don't know which issue would help me. (Probably all of them) If you have knowledge of a previous fix or post or article, try as best you can to lead us to it.



The abs light won't go out on two of my trucks. Can anyone tell me where to get the wrench that AllData says is need to bleed the system. Short of crushing the bulb or disconnecting the ABS, I would really like to put out the light.



If anyone is bashful about comment in this www forum, PM me and I will put relevant parts in the forum.



This forum is as near as I would ever want to get to the sort of thing that the aircraft industry has call air worthyness directives. AD notes. I definitely want to know what can go wrong with my truck but I sure as heck don't want the govt to tell me when I have to change it. On an airplane, it could kill you. Here it will just keep you out of trouble.



All you 1st gen guys remember this: "they ain't making our trucks no more". It appears from comments and looking as I travel here and there that the price of our trucks has bottomed and will just rise as they become fewer and fewer. There will be fluke priceing relative to divorce, layoffs and such but a clean low mileage truck will bring nine to twelve G. Early last summer I saw a D250, clean as a pin that was priced at 5 thousand in Macon Georgia. Since the economy is on the rise, I have not seen a nice 1st gen for sale. They are all at work. As my handle suggest, I plan to run mine forever. Thanks to all of you.

 

[paccool]

Problems I have had- truck has 175,000 miles on it.



1)I'm on my third auto transmission. This one has been beefed up.

2)Injector pump rebuilt.

3)Replaced master cylinder and booster.

4)Had the rear end rebuilt with a new ring and pinion, all bearings.

5)Had u-joints and carrier bearing replaced.

6)Replaced all wheel bearings.

7)Installed speedy sleeves on rear end to fix oil leak.

8)Replaced thermostat.

9)Has had brakes replaced 3 times. Last time I put new rotors and drums on.

10)Replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid after it died.



I've probably forgotten a thing or two but this is most of it.

 

[skobylenski]

Between the milages of 235K and 286K (that's how long this truck has been mine), I've:



-Replaced the rear brake lines (rusted to $#!t)

-Replaced tie rod ends (grease zerks were facing front (not rear) so they got filled w/ water and dirt)

-Tensioner arm pulley bearings went 2 weeks ago (pulley all but fell off)

-Replaced countless bushings all around

-Replaced driver's door hinge pins (now I need to adjust the hinges, but can't get to the top bolt on the top hinge, I know how, it's just a matter of finding the time to do it)

-rear axle seals and stuff back there

-rear fuel tank strap rusted through and broke w/ almost a full tank (that was fun).

-Replaced fuel filter once (yes, in 50K +, only one time, it was so sludged up, the truck lost power)

-freaked over the P/S pump that has a source-less leak

-freaked over the 4WD hubs barking and pulling all over the road when locked in and being driven. (We have snow now, so this is a major problem. I don't plow, but our driveway is affectionately named "The Badlands" [South Dakota] for a very good reason. )

-As to the ABS problems, I don't remember what I did, as it was a year and a half ago, but somehow I managed to get the lights to stay off, but I'll be darned if I can remember how. I know the glovebox plug thing is still connected, and the lights still work.



The previous owner towed a 20,000 lb. trailer from VT to PA 2x a month with the Gutbag, and #1 lasted 150K miles. The second is up to 136K right now, and it still feels strong. You may call me lucky, but I call be careful. I feel that as long as you're careful with it and don't beat the hell out of it, the Gutbag will tow just as well as the NV's at the same lower speeds (read: don't do 80mph up a steep hill w/ a 20K lb. trailer out back). The heaviest I tow is a 2 horse trailer with elec. brakes. It usually has 2 horses in it. I hauled to Darien, CT last August w/ 2 horses, and the truck was fine until the way back when I couldn't hold 50mph going uphill. I later discovered that the fuel filter was more sludge than filter paper. I replaced that and it was a kick in the pants to drive then



Anyway, I think that when you look at the maintenance we've done, and the intervals, then look at the newer trucks, we have it a little better in some ways. At least we don't have a fuel pump that keels over after 40K miles.

 

[rowland]

My truck is relatively low milage (106K) but is now 15 yrs old so I'm starting to have those "old truck" problems. Owned truck since 64k mi. I haven't kept track of everything I've replaced but heres a partial list.



1. ) Exhaust rusted out - 65k mi

2. ) transmission toasted - 75k mi

3. ) Cracked engine head - 78k mi

4. ) New Shocks - 79k mi

5. ) Transfer case seal - 85k mi

6. ) Steering gear box tightened - 86k mi

7. ) Both front hubs - 95k mi

6. ) Front wheel bearings - 95k mi

7. ) All new brakes, brake lines, etc - 97k mi

8. ) Rear spring center pin sheared. - 98k mi

9. ) Leaky steering gear box overhauled - 100k mi



Also multiple thermostats, belts, filters, etc. So far I haven't replaced a single u-joint or front end component. Doors still close good, all bushings are original. For some reason my passenger side door tends to rust, esp. the lower portion. Had to patch it at about 78k mi. when it got so thin that a stick punched through it. Also had trouble with my tailgate not wanting to open for a while, but am replacing with a flatbed soon.



I keep up on fluid changes and greasing but the truck gets rode pretty hard. Lots of gravel road, off road, and very cold winter driving here in Fairbanks AK.



Isaac

 

[dusthomps]

Fortunately for me, the original owner of my 91 had all the records of everything done to this truck. As the second owner I've tried to do the same. I'll post what has been replaced since new, I've owned it since 162k...



- PS pump / Speedo gear - 690 miles

- PS gearbox - 844 miles

- PS pump / PS gearbox - 29k

- Oil pressure sender - 44k

- Lockout hubs - 70k

- Front rotors - 90k

- PS Pump / PS gearbox - 115k

- Right caliper - 132k

- Master Cylinder - 150k

- Rear drums / wheel cylinders - 156k

- Front axle u-joints - 157k

- Front e-brake cable - 165k

- Block heater - 169k

- Radiator - 170k

- Master Cylinder 173k

- PS gearbox - 192k

- Getrag Trans rebuilt - 223k



Notice any common trends with this truck when it comes to the power steering system?



Dustin

 

[bgilbert]

When I bought my 89 in Oct 02, it had 121K km or under 100K miles, but with our odometers we can never be sure of the exact mileage of a used truck. It was as Greenleaf would say a beat up farm truck. It needed a lot of work.

Fuel return line leak at tank, new vacuum pump, anti-lock wiring harness, speed sensor, reverse lamp sockets, changed all fluids bumber to bumber, battery, rear leaf springs, shocks, 4wd indicator switch all within first month of ownership.

Thoughout this year, fan clutch, fan shroud, belt, hoses, front add a leaf, shocks, thermostat, adjust valves, valve cover gaskets, borgeson shaft, ac compressor. h-valve, filter dryer, changed metric speedo out to a head in miles per hour, heater core, evaporator core, ignition lock cylinder, 4 new tires, upper lower ball joints alignment, u-joints rear driveshaft, cd player, oil seal front output on t-case (thx dfeland), 6" rear spring blocks, pair of 5" stacks, flush fill radiator w/prestone dex cool. Along with PM's= change oil, oil & fuel filter every 6 months. In a year I've only put near 6,500 miles on it. And you know what, it needs alot of work. Can you believe before all this I paid $5K for it. IMO I think one would be better off if they can find a low mileage, well taken care of truck and pay the premium for it, as I have put at least $5k back in it, just to get the drivetrain, suspension basic items back up to standard. Ok sorry so long. Bill

 

[RGT]

since 248k miles:

right tie rod end

left rear wheel cylinder

all 3 rear driveshaft ujoints

rear wheel speed sensor

exhaust

throttle shaft and bushing in injector pump(and associated plates-and spring)

block heater cord

resealed windshield

door pins and bushings L & R

headlight adjusters L & R

serpentine belt

transfer case switch for indicator light/abs control

ujoints on front drive axle



Still to do:

drivers side floor patch panel

timing cover bolts and secure KDP

pass side rocker panel

adjust valves

pass side electric window not working

 

[1stgen4evr]

Past 100K

Ok new owners/ prospective buyers. Does that give you some idea of what is ahead of you. I have done at least once, everything in the list of repairs with the exception of fwd items. Clearly the fwds have more to wear out but they are invaluable for the applications where traction and road conditions are tough.



I believe that the service life of the tensioner is about 250K miles.

My water pump went at about 350K.

My Gutbag is still going at 385K. . but it will have to have service soon.

The master cylinder will have to have some attention by if not before 360K.

I may have gotten more from my PS pump than normal.

Brakes/ How much are you trying to stop/carry.

Most of the other stuff is going to be service factor related



Still... . what about the ball joints on the twd trucks. I had one to fail about 1963 on a half ton Chevy. I was just turning on to a job lot. I shudder to think what would have happened on an interstate at 80 miles an hour. Does the thing give any warning or does it just collapse as the Chevy did. Does anyone know of a catastrophic failure on the front end of these trucks. I have had a good bit of trouble trying to keep the front end aligned. Always. But I just thought that this was from the double wishbone front suspension. Chevys eat tires. Dodges eat tires. I think I will tear into the front end and see for myself.



Let me pose this question also. This will require more than a list of things that you have fixed.



So long ago that I can not remember exactly when but around 1980, I installed a 6-354 Perkins engine from a worn out combine into a Ford 3/4 ton long bed. As stated in the forum there were rumors of Dodge introducing (by 85) the Cummins but still no CTD. From the experience with the Perkins we decided to put a diesel in another truck. I liked the Perkins mod extremely well. We were installing the Cummins in equipment that we were building and we wanted a four door so the decision was made to use a Chevy/GM.



Mainly because of the prior connection with Cummins, we went with a CTD in a Chevy. Our experience with the CTD relative to fuel mileage comparisons convinced me that if I bought a brand new Dodge with a CTD, the CTD would pay for the entire truck, engine included if we drove it 500K miles. Now I won't try to argue to the penny with anyone but I am still convinced that when my 93 hits 500K it will be a free truck. It is a work truck and actually owes me nothing now. So here is the question. Add it all up. Compare cost for your service against any other truck that works as hard as your truck. Have you ever owned a less expensive ride.





1stgen4evr

 

[jeff77indy]

100,000 plus

Well let's see. I bought my '89 W250 CTD in 1991 with 86,000 miles on it. 12 years and 241,000+ miles later, the old guy has 327,000+ on him.

I've replaced the;

Injector pump at 290,000

Transfer pump at 290,000

Front rotors and brakes

Master cylinder

Rear brake cylinders

Rear brakes

All wheel bearings and seals

Had the transmission rebuilt twice once before I bought him and

once around 290,000.

Installed a new abs sensor in the rear hoghead.

Front ball joint bushings and bearings

Front axle universal joints

Rear drive shaft universals

Tie rod ends

Front spring eye bushings

Installed a Borgesen steerinf shaft

Drag link

Seat recovered/rebuilt

Along with basic maintenance filters and fluid changes as a few of the above are considered basic maintenance also.

The most I've had behind this truck is 125 bushels of soybeans. grossed out at 18,9000 pounds. Mostly pulled round bales of hay around 6,000 pounds plus the trailer.

Jeff

 

[AMikonis]

A good friend of mine owned 6, now owns four first gen CTD's used for pickups and deliveries for his manufacturing company. They are run hard 5 days a week and don't get much PM.



He bought a cab and chassis auto in '89, but got rid of it because of licensing regs and the performance of the auto. The rest have been D250 Getrags. He'll tell you they haven't needed much, but there have been some issues. He still swears by them and likes them better than 3 second gens he owns. Aside from lots of brakes and u-joints, there have been some failures.



An early '91 and a '93 he bought new. His drivers swear the '91 is the fastest. It's over 650K, but they can't keep the speedos working. Offhand, it's had injection pump go out, and steering box, and a couple Getrag failures - off the road right now due to Getrag and rust - he bought a nice cab for it. Blames the rubber carpet for not letting the floor dry out. The '93 has over 350K, just a couple Getrags as far as I know. One of them had a some sort of expensive underhood wiring issue once, too.



Two '92's he bought used, I own one of them now. The other one locked a rear end once, Getrag failure once. We've seen two ball joints pop. Mileage unknown on both trucks, suspected high.



Last one is a club cab bought with an easy 100K on it. Not sure what year, but it's intercooled. Cracked intercooler was the only problem I remember with it.



It's important to note that the post-warantee Getrags failures all involved one component part, usually a bearing. All were "repairable" and did not require or receive a full rebuild.

 

[dpuckett]

I've had 3 with over 200K; none under 140K

Ok, I sold Mom hers at 176K, now has 238K.

On my early 91, 11/90 build date. see sig for details. Has been rode hard and put away wet by first owner; Think he went 6K oil changes pulling a 40' G-N flatbed hauling tractors cross country. I'm 3rd or 4th owner.



Needed a turbo when I got it. Why I didnt check this before, I have no clue. First truck I even LOOKED at without checking endplay and slack in turbo. Replaced with a PDR HX35, and had to do some creative engineering to make it plumb up to the crossover.



New bearing kit and carrier in rear diff. Wish I'd had a 3. 07 to swap in at the time. I KNOW, change hub to hub, but still, 65 in 4th and still have 1 more gear would be awesome.



HEad gasket. Blew shortly after I advanced timing, but didnt know it. I ran it for almost 10K with the blown HG before I read on the Diesel Injection of Pittburg webpage that a sound like a bird chirping under hard pull is most likely a HG on a N14; figured it might be the same on my B5. 9. Turned out it was.



HEad has cracks between the intake valve seats and injector sbores. Guy at the machine shop said he'd seen them run with bigger cracks in Case tractors. Put it back on with a marine gasket; so far so good (knock on wood)



Manifold has shrunk about 3/16" Enough to mess up exhaust flow out and turbo spool up. HAve a used one coming in this week; cant afford an ATS unit yet; this one measures up just right.



Getrag has been rebuilt sometime. Has "remanufactured" tag on it.



Left front fender and right rear dually fender are about to fall off, though swampy, washboards they call roads around here dont help. Bodies arent a known strong point.



Mine has had ne front springs recently before I got it; it sets a good 4" higher than Mom's. 1" is in 215 vs 135 tire difference.



Needs a new master cylinder- brakes are a little spongy, and it squeaks more often.



Never could get the brakes quite right on my 92 W250. ALways had a soft spongy pedal, even after complete hardware and hydraulics change.



I've had ECM trouble with my 93 D350. Bypassed the volt regulator, and installed a manual one.



ABS light comes on in almost all of them. I unplug the controller behind the glovebox. RWAL only works on dry pavement anyway, and you still lose your steering, so I figure I've lost nothing, and may get a little extra braking force now and then.



Had an injector pump die that I fixed, after talking to Harry at PDR. GUide pin was stuck in far forward (min fuel) position, and wasnt flowing enough to pop injectors. took it apart (off engine) and got the pin moving back and forth.



I have a complete record of the 92 W250 and my current truck in the pickup glovebox, and I cant remember it all (that's why I write it down, so I dont have to). AMikonis, it went to a good home, pulling a 4 horse trailer and flooring supplies in God's Country.



Daniel

 

[AMikonis]

AMikonis, it went to a good home, pulling a 4 horse trailer and flooring supplies in God's Country.

That's good. After reading your posts and working on my "new" '92, I'm starting to think neither of us should have let that truck go!

 

[dpuckett]

Yeah, I think that from time to time, too, but I also needed the cash boot I got, and needed the extra suspension at the time. It handled gravel roads SOOO much nicer than my 2wd. Had I known what a PITA a non-IC truck could be, I'd have told him no, but you cant change the past. A real "I shouldnta done that" is seeing "my" 93 W350 CC around town. I take comfort in knowing mine is paid for, and the 93 would still not be. When/if I get the money, I'm gonna askt if he wants to sell it. Some of my woes are self inflicted, though, to be honest, and I cant complain overall- at least it aint a 6. 0



Daniel

 

[914x4ctd]

To make the ABS light go out I had to replace the sensor in the rear end and replace the jumper. Expensive though, about $70. each.

 

[sparks57]

I've had to replace:



•the right half of my front axle.

•the water pump

•the rotors

•the steering box bracket

•some u-joints

•crank position sensor



That's it (or all I can remember)... although I have only owned it for 25k miles.



One thing that doesn't work right now is my parking brake light??? Every since I tightened up my parking brake, the light doesn't work...



Anybody know what to do for that?

 

[Bluebird]

Replacements...

In twelve-months I've driven 17,800 miles, (the amount of time I've owned the truck; profile for total mileage).



Replaced/Serviced:



valve adjustment/cover gaskets

both rear seals

battery

2-front tires

front brake pads

fuel/oil/air filters

assorted light bulbs



Off topic, related question for opinions;

The rear bumper only has a ball for towing. How much could have be towed with this set-up? (bumper reads, "5,000lbs. "). I was thinking that the previous owner(s) may have not towed very heavy loads and that may rig may have not been abused much, wishful thinking I'm sure... Patrick

 

[tugboatphil]

CB,



My brake light used to stay on and I finally figured out that it was just the pedal hanging too low after releasing ther brake. Instead of adjusting it, I'd just tap it up withmy foot and the light would go out.



Phil