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Problems with lack of power

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I'm back w/ 93 W250?

lift pump problem

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I just bought a 93 D350 5sp 3. 54, 174k. I tried to pull a 3500 lb trailer. I could'nt get the truck over 55mph. Any Ideas as to why? What can I check? Thanks
 
I'm rushed for time here, so I'll keep it short.

Fuel filter

Air filter

Injection pump linkage/engine "high idle" speed

Air intake leaks

AFC settings

Lift pump pressure

Turbo (is it gated)

Shut-off solenoid (metal shavings)



We really need to know what YOU have checked.



-S
 
Throttle linkage TRAVEL. -maybe-... have someone push the throttle/go pedal to the floor in the truck and watch the throttle linkage at the fuel pump, see if it has full travel, that is when mashed to the floor, it should go full forward and contact the stop on the pump. . Someone else can chime in and give the correct terminology. Try this first, then get to the other items. Bill
 
throttle travel

[Someone else can chime in and give the correct terminology. ]



I belive you got it right. Say the least I know what you are talking about.



1stgen4evr

James
 
2 questions;



I've been trying for a year and a half to get my idle speed down. The adjustment is such now, that it no longer contacts, so it's got to be something else.



How can you take in slack on the throttle linkage?
 
tugboatphil-

take a 10mm open wrench, and a pair of Vice Grips and loosen the jambnuts next to the end caps- one is left handed, one right handed. Rotate the shaft like a turnbuckle, and your idle should slow down. Retighten your jambnuts and go with it.



Daniel
 
The afore mentioned technique will also adjust the pump's fuel (throttle) control lever spring.

Use the service manual/Bob's injection pump sticky to view this lever and spring combination. It clearly explains the adjustment and why it's adjusted as such.



Scott
 
Alrighty then... ... ... ... ... ... I'll send you my address to which you will inturn send me a plane ticket. Pick me up at the airport and we'll work on it.

Oh, ya..... I'm e-mailing you my shopping list of needed items from PDR.

Now, get crack'n.



Scott
 
Pwalters

We will work with you but we need more data.



Why does the sun come up?



Do you a boost gauge? you can rig up a temporary cheap one for less than $15.



Where do you live?

How does it sound?

What gear are you in?

Is the emergency brake on?:D



Data, need more Data!!!
 
I dont have a boost gauge yet am going to be installing one when the weather gets above 30. and how and where do I get one (even temporary) for $15?



ok,

Laingsburg, MI

sounds like a diesel. (it rattles) :)

It was in 5th gear, when the speed went below 55 I shifted to 4th

still wouldnt go any faster

and no

I wish I could give you more data, but I have only had the truck for 3 weeks.

You will have to forgive me, I am new to this diesel. the last one I had was an Oldsmobile.
 
I had been having the same problem. I took my truck to Cummins Northwest to have the valves adjusted and my engine looked over. They pressurized the central air cooling system to check for leaking welds and the like. They found a hole in one of the four gaskets/booties that connect the cooling system. Just after the turbo pushes compressed air slightly down toward the passenger side to the truck, a 90 degree elbow redirects the air forward through one of these booties into a straight tube, through another booty, into the cooler that sits in front of the radiator and so on. The booty that followed the elbow was sitting on the passenger side wheel well. This rubbed through 4 layers of rubber and reinforcement fibers and caused a hole (the size of point on a ballpoint pen) in the booty. After replacing the booty and rotating the turbo up a couple of degrees (to keep this from happening again) she’s got the giddy-up and top end she had lost. Although her top end is still only around 80 MPH, which is a whole nother issue. I think it may have helped my mileage a little as well. Long story to say, look over and check all the hose clamps and rubber booties for leaks. If you have leaks, you have loss of pressure. If you have loss of pressure in the system, you have loss of efficiency and performance. Good luck!
 
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I don't think that the old's would pull that trailer over 55 eather. but i think that the problem is more than air leaks. I am betting on throttle travel. if not than the next posible will be pricey. I bet with no turbo we could pull trailer 65 70 mph. Hold on one more thing what about the AFC ( smoke control) if the diaphram is bad the pump will notgo to full fuel. You can bottom out the smoke screw to by pass that problem and check.
 
QUOTE]Originally posted by PWalters

I dont have a boost gauge yet am going to be installing one when the weather gets above 30. and how and where do I get one (even temporary) for $15?



Remove the 1/8 pipe plug on the intake. Replace it with a 1/8 pipe to 1/8 or compression fitting. Get a few feet of nylon tubing. Buy a inexpensive 0 to 25 or 30 lb. guage. Get the compression X pipe adapter that fits the gauge. Run the hose through an existing hole in the dash and hang it from your ash tray with a tiny bungie or nylon tie.



This is quick and easy and cheap depending on how much you want to spend. I have even seen little pressure gauges at wall mart with the air tool accessories for $7. 99. The rest is hardware store stuff.



Or I just stopped at Auto Zone on the way home

from breakfast. They have the hose and adapter kit for $4. 99 and I saw a cheapo tire gauge with 1/8 pipe threads for $2. 99. They also carried a nice complete dash mount kit for $59. 99.



Just depends on if you want to establish a quick read to get a baseline idea or go a little more for a permanent setup.
 
Unlikely on a VE, but.....

Dont forget timing. Do you have any white/ blue/ mix smoke after warm up? If so your timing may be slow.

How fast does it shut down? Does it wind down like an older diesel, or is the stop more sudden and sharp? If it winds down (like your Olds), the solenoid could be going south.

Chek AFC settings, as aforementioned.

Check the potmetal tube from the intake to the AFC housing. It broke on Mom's a few months ago; she had noticed a drop in power, but just attributed it to winter fuel. I got in it one day, and knew immediately what was wrong. I have a jury rigged set up that saved me about $20 over buying the replacement/ upgrade from Cummins. Seems to be holding up thus far.



Daniel
 
Originally posted by dpuckett

Dont forget timing. Do you have any white/ blue/ mix smoke after warm up? If so your timing may be slow.

How fast does it shut down? Does it wind down like an older diesel, or is the stop more sudden and sharp? If it winds down (like your Olds), the solenoid could be going south.

Chek AFC settings, as aforementioned.

Check the potmetal tube from the intake to the AFC housing. It broke on Mom's a few months ago; she had noticed a drop in power.



Daniel



It doesnt shut down quite like the olds. A little faster perhaps.

how do I adjust the AFC? could the turbo be bad? I was thinking of putting the 16cm on it, that seems to be the one for the way I am going to use it. Drive to work empty, tow the car. (7,000lbs) once in a while.
 
On the top of the afc there is a soft plug you have to pry that out of the hole. loosten the 13mm lock nut and bottom out the tourqe bit screw. When i bottomed out my screw it screwed out of the locknut so i put it in the ash tray for safe keeping.
 
I put a temporary boost gauge on it. never gets above 9lbs.

4th gear floored rose to 9 then dropped to 8, at 55 mph holds steady at 3
 
9 lbs is low, 11-14 is about stock. Do you have any black smoke? If you don't have any black smoke then I would say you aren't getting near enough fuel. Lift pump maybe? Don't know where I would go next except finding out why there ain't enough fuel.



Michael
 
11-14 is under stock every one that I have messed with has been about 17-18-19 psi before any mods. I really think you should drive in the afc screw and see if the boost increases. That is providing you have addressed the max throttle travel first.
 
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