Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Procedure for installing ARP studs - without pulling the head?

[R-N-R]

Need some advice on the procedure for installing ARP studs without pulling the head.



Swap one bolt/stud at a time?

Torque to 90 1st go around

Retorque to ?? on the second lap?

Repeat until at 120 ft lbs. ?



Moly Lube the threads or whole stud?



I have searched TDR threads but did not come across any comprehensive details on this procedure.



TIA,

R-N-R

 

[CLamb]

I would be a little shy to unbolt the head without removing it and changing the gasket. . at the very least I would drain the coolant fron the block. Reasonb bieng is say it starts leaking when you have the bolts out, it could be filling a cylinder with coolant and you would have no idea until you tried to start it.



I guess you could do them one at a time, install the stud and torque to say 50lbs or so. Then after they are all done torque them the rest of the way down.



Just . 02

 

[Huff N Puff]

In some holes you need to run a tap in the holes,otherwise the studs dont go deep enough and may interfere with the valve cover. This may make it really messy cleaning the filings out.

 

[Graphic man]

Bill, i Though you had your head screwed on tight!! :-laf :-laf :-laf

 

[R-N-R]

I've heard about having to tap the holes, but in terms of "sometimes" and I am hoping to get lucky. I have not been able to find a long shank tap. If I find this, would greasing the tap help?



Good tip on draining the anti-freeze. I recently had the head off and it was a real scary experience, so if possible I am going to try installing the studs with it on.

Bill, i Though you had your head screwed on tight!!

Scott, Scott, Scott... . and I thought you knew me better than that :-laf

My signature demonstrates the opposite Oo. ... and it is contagious! Right Frank???

 

[RonA]

MSC carries long 12mm taps. you will have to grind the end down a bit to make a bottom tap out of it. Go down to the hardware store and get a piece of 3/8 od clear plastic tubing and duct tape it to the end of a shop vac hose. Do your tapping and then go down in the hole with the hose and suck out the oil and chips. It seems to work well. The oil does not seem to cause a problem in the shop vac like gasoline does. If you can't find the tap pm me and I'll give you a phone number and part number to order it.

 

[Jetpilot]

You can replace them one for one with no problems and draining the coolant is not necessary..... To do the best job possible you need to use a bottoming tap and tap all the holes. Some of the studs are longer those go on the outside next to the eexhaust manifold. Don't lube the stud threads in the block, lube the bolts washers and top stud threads.



On a head that I am just replacing the bolts with studs I will torque to 90#, 110#, and then 125#. If you do decide to remove the head to tap the holes I would put in a 12v marine gasket that has been modified to fit the 24v.



Doug

 

[R-N-R]

Thank you guys, this is exactly the infomation I was looking for.

 

[Jetpilot]

Dont' take the torque any higher than 125#, the yield on the ARP studs is 122#. The 125# allows for a small amount of twisting torque... . So going higher doesn't do any good and can actually cause harm.



Doug

 

[RonA]

MSC part number for an M12x1. 75 6" extension tap is 36874337. Their web address is www.mscdirect.com. Go to the site and type the part number into the search area and it will come up.

Ron

 

[pro99]

Hey Bill see if you can get that tap for friday.

 

[R-N-R]

Thanks Ron, I should be able to source on locally today, or get one overnighted for tomorrow.



I am on it Chaz!



Doug, I am hoping yo catch up with you at Kauffman's.

 

[Jetpilot]

R-N-R,



If you have any questions feel free to give me a call @ 717-557-7060.



Doug

 

[KBaucom]

Well if it was me I would Go ahead and pull the head off, it don't take but a couple of hours. Then get it o-ringed it will cost more money now but it will be worth it. Plus you really need to tap the holes in the block all the way to the bottom to get the studs to get a good firm hold.

 

[Babyfat]

bill didn't your tech suggest doing this while he had it apart? chaz?

 

[R-N-R]

Actually the replacement motor came in with the head installed. I think I have the tap resolved.



KBaucom, I agree that this is the right way.

 

[KBaucom]

Well I would just go ahead and get it overwith I think it cost me $825-$850 to get it surfaced, oringed, and the ARP stud kit but I pulled the head off myself. I can garentee you that you will be glad that you went and did it. Because if you want more power it will have to be done sooner or later.

 

[R-N-R]

I expect that I will be good with my power, estimating 525ish, we'll find out in about a week

The B1-2 is wastegated at at 42psi so I was not too concerned about the head gasket, but after reading about drive pressures blowing gaskets and I have blown past the wastegate to 50psi, so I thought the studs would provide a little insurance for me.



KB, I agree with you, that is the best way to do things. It just is not the right time for me now so I am doing what I can.



I found the 6" tap locally, thanks again for the specs Ron

 

[R-N-R]

Studs are in! The holes were fine but we had to grind a small portion of the valve cover to clear the front two bolts. Mucho Gracious to to Chaz and Frank for getting this done for me!



Many thanks also to Scott and TJ who also stopped in to help install the PDR boots. That hairspray trick is a wonderful thing!!



Clean the beast up this weekend and I am ready for Kauffmans!

 

[Huff N Puff]

Studs are in! The holes were fine but we had to grind a small portion of the valve cover to clear the front two bolts. Mucho Gracious to to Chaz and Frank for getting this done for me!



Many thanks also to Scott and TJ who also stopped in to help install the PDR boots. That hairspray trick is a wonderful thing!!



Clean the beast up this weekend and I am ready for Kauffmans!

Timinva was well over 600hp with a stock headgasket,he never pushed it hard while the engine was cold. As I recall it lasted for a long time. I was at the power level you are at now,and tryed installing studs on a stock headgasket,and blew it in a few hours after the install. Be really careful.