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Prodigy question

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Well I have received and installed my Prodigy. Installed in ash tray hole and really like that location. Have not towed with it but have done some test. I hooked trailer up and set gain to 6 volts as mentioned in installation. I set boost to b1 and depressed brake pedal . 7 volts (13%), I then set b3 depressed brake 1. 5 volts (25%). These are exactly what instructions say they should be. They don't give b2 readings but it looks to me like it should be between b1 and b3 readings. I set b2 and depressing brake I get 1. 5 volts (25%) exactly same as b3. Has any one else checked this? Is this correct?
 
B3?

I got my Prodigy right after the initial release in June of 2001. It only has boost levels 1 + 2 - No 3!



B1 - 12. 5%

B2 - 25%



Good luck,

Pat
 
Boost info

Paul,

I didn't really look at the meter to tell me the volts the Prodigy is putting out on b1 or b2, I'm going by "feel. " Check out my 5er weight in my Sig. I tried b1 and it just didn't give me as good stopping at higher speeds. Just as the manual suggests, I settled for b2 (for my 5er weight) and the stopping was much better and very smooth. I do get the "release" feel at slow speeds but it's not offensive like the older time-based controllers are. I even switch from b1 to b2 for in town or hightway driving.

I don't know if this helps.
 
Paul, I just got my Prodigy and installed it in the ashhole too. Perfect spot!



I want to know why you "must" run the NEG directly to the battery... . groung is ground. Did you, or others go directly to the battery?



I am looking forward to towing with the Prodigy... . it replaced a Voyeger.



Mike
 
Originally posted by '956Wheel

I want to know why you "must" run the NEG directly to the battery... . groung is ground. Did you, or others go directly to the battery?
I'm interested in the answer to this, myself. Like Pat, I got mine when they were initally released, and I don't recall instructions to that effect. I just spliced it to the trailer brake wiring stub that came with the truck.



Is there a potential problem of which I'm unaware?



Jim
 
I just spliced into the cable that came with my Ram. I did not run a ground to the battery. I have not towed with it yet. We will be doing that next wednesday for short trip and then to Montana and Wyoming two weeks later. I think if you buy the cable for Prodigy to Ram hook up from Tekonsha, it does not go to the battery with the ground but all four wires plug in by steering shaft.
 
Paul, that's correct - the Tekonsha cable does just plug into the Dodge connector. However, their instructions also say that "If you experience intermittent or permanent loss of display lights on brake control, Call Customer Support at 1-888-785-5832 for a Dodge Ground Harness Upgrade Kit. This kit will improve your Dodge Tow Vehicle's grounding capabilities. " I didn't need the upgrade.
 
I'll have to check that out, but I won't be towing in a few weeks.

I do have to set dial to 13 and B2 setting, and that works great. I probably need to check trailer brakes, due to such a high volt reading, but set where it is at is way nice!!!!!
 
Had my prodigy installed at camping world one day when I was over there. After hooking up to the 5fer, I tried to follow the initial set up procedure without sucess. Did not see anything to squeeze as indicated in the procedure. I was able to set the voltage and run it on B3. I've been 1700 miles in towing gear since then with no problems. I've had to get on the brakes hard two times in New Orleans on I-10. Stopped great and straight. I had the extension cable installed from the truck connector so I could mount it to the left of the ash tray

and under the dash so the lights would not be in view when operating at night.

Its easy to reach with the right hand if you need to do it.
 
I'm not familiar with the Prodigy, but I might be able to comment on the question:



I want to know why you "must" run the NEG directly to the battery... . ground is ground. Did you, or others go directly to the battery



Sensitive (or critical) devices such as brake controllers, pyrometers, and fuel pressure gauges often utilize very high gain amplifiers. These amplifiers respond to extremely small currents and/or voltages and thus must use a "direct" and "isolated" ground. Connecting a ground directly to the battery offers the best "reference" ground. The battery acts as a large capacitor and absorbs any noise that might cause errors in the readings or functions. Granted, a nice healthy ground stud under the dashboard probably offers a very direct path back to the battery and might give you reasonable results. However, every connection in completing this path back to the battery offers a potential voltage drop. [Try to follow the exact path back to the battery some time and you will see how complicated it can be]. The voltage drop is not necessarily due from the tiny currents generated by the sensitive device, but rather the summing currents of all the other electronic devices (i. e. radios, cigar lighters, etc. ) that might be utilizing that same return path. Not only can this voltage drop cause errors, but it can also vary with loading. By providing a separate ground for your device, you are now isolating the device from all these other currents. In the olden days, Mercedes use to even provide a separate ground wire back to the battery for all its separate "powered" devices. Now due to cost saving measures (and increased number of devices), the chassis has become the common "ground" point. Sometimes, what looks like a good ground, actually ends up "funneling" through some tiny little connections which are already providing a return path for some substantial currents.



Sometimes the mechanical analogy is easier to visualize. Everyone knows what happens when somebody flushes the toilet while you are taking a shower? This is due to the pressure change (current) on the cold water supply. However, if you had plumbed (wired) the toilet with a separate water line back to the source (battery), the shower might be a more pleasant experience. :D
 
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Nice Post David, I can't wait to use my new prodigy. I liked the one I put on a friends truck the other day so much I went out and bought one for me and Cliffman. If I have it Cliffman has to have one you know how it goes you don't want to be out done by your buddy. Are you going to the Ramrunners meeting next week David?
 
You sure have been getting a few new toys as of lately Blair? Just because you are the treasurer doesn't entitle you to dip from the bucket. :D I'll be there.
 
I was going to get a new account but there wasn't enough money left. :D I am in the process of saving us some money don't you worry. ;)
 
BPine, No problem its just one of those things... I like to go 100% to the instructions. I just put the Prodigy in, replacing a Voyager. I'll probably hook up and test it tomorrow.



Mike
 
Cool deal Mike, Cliffman got to test his this morning and he seems to really like it. I will see if he wants to Post his thoughts.
 
Smoooth

Installed the Prodigy controller a couple of days ago and this morning I hooked up the ole home-away-from home and pulled it from my home to my shop. I was able to check both city and highway conditions. I setup the controller as per instructions and it works the best out of any controller I’ve ever used. Heavy breaking at hi speeds pulling 15k was extremely smooth. The harder I pressed on the break pedal the more breaking I got. I performed a "panic stop" from 55 mph and I was really impressed on how fast I stopped and when I came to the end of my stop I really liked how the controller "eased out" of it. Very very smooth. I have mine setup on 8 and B2. In stop and go traffic there's no "jerkiness" at all. Set it once and forget it. :) Here's a couple of pic of the installation.



http://www.cliffandsandy.com/prodigy_break_controller.htm



Bpine, Don’t foget I’m 1 up on ya with the Mag-hytec front diff cover Oo. :D
 
Well I couldn't be outdone by my fellow ramrunners, so I replaced my old voyager with a prodigy. I hated the old voyager very jerky at slow speed coming to a stop. I used the optional harness that just plugs into the factory plug. Blair and Cliff did either of you need to run a separate ground to the battery? I hope to test mine out in a couple of weeks.



Mike Gire
 
Nope

MGire, No need for a separate ground wire for my setup. Blair would probably know better than me but I would think if you use the factory plug you wouldn't need a separate ground wire. In any event, mine works great without it:)
 
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