Project #1 Remote dual by-pass installed

[y-knot]

Welll like the title suggest, I finally got to install the Amsoil remount dual By-pass filter mount I purchased from them. I did not go with the kit, I wanted a different engine adapter then their cast aluminum one, and I did not want the mount located in the engine compartment, it just makes things to conjested.

I got the engine adapter from John S, a fellow TDR member that makes a great billet aluminum piece, it's way cool and the best I've seen. One twist i had to work around was, both the engine adapter and filter mount came with 3/4-16 O-ring fittings to 3/4JIC(An #8), I wanted to use An # 10 hose, so I had to source the neccessary fittings, which took some time. I liked the larger hose because I wanted to make sure there would be no pressure drop or flow restriction, I plan on mounting the filter mount up front behind the bumper.

I did not like the popular option of mounting the filters in the engine compartment, yes it is closer, but makes the engine compartment way to cluttered. I also do not see how people can use the battery hold down stud as a secure mount for the filters, it is just not strong enough, my opinion. I went up front behind the bumper on the passenger side, I have the Buckstop bumper and there is plenty of room behind it for the mount. Fabricated a simple but strong piece to hang the filter mount off of and secured it to the bottom using one of the brushguard studs. For the lines I used Russell #10 stainless steel hose, along with their fittings and swivel hose ends. I also used two layers of shrink tube on the sections where they come into contack with other hoses and wires, this will keep them from chafing the others.

The whole thing went pretty smoothly, I haven't made up SS line in some time, felt good to be back. I also installed the new AmsOiler, it attaches to the filter mount and pre lubbs the engine with a shot of captured pressurized oil before engine start up. They did a very nice job designing the piece, it fits nicely on the back of the Amsoil filter mount. Wiring is complete and very simple, just need a grond and a hot when On terminal. When you go to start the engine, a small buzzer sounds and lets you know the Oiler is working, then just start as normal. I had the old and unreliable Pre-Lubber from years ago, this is nothing like that and works by storing the engines oil while under pressure, very clever and simple.

I made a few pictures of the parts and pieces it took to do the job, later i will get a picture of the unit installed. Anyone thinking about adding something like this, don't worry it is very simple and easy to install.

 

[y-knot]

Quick up-date for the oil filter mount. Had a few people that asked for pictures of the mount I made, sorry but I did not take any pictures of the mount as I was building it, I meant too, but. . I did take this shot of the whole assembly as it is mounted on the truck, I know it is not a real good picture but all I have.





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The #10 lines and fittings definitely made the job harder, all the fittings that came with the pieces were for #8, I sourced the needed parts both locally and over the Internet the end result was well worth the added time and funds. The engine compartment looks much cleaner without the oil filter hang there. It also takes a huge amount of heat out of the engine compartment and puts it into the slipstream for better cooling. The mounting bracket I made was secured by the grill guard mounting bolt on my Buckstop bumper. It is a large 3/4" bolt so no problems securing both pieces, and tucked behind the bumper offer great protection. Other may find that they too have room to mount such a filter behind their front bumper.

 

[barbwire]

It does look to be quite roomy where you have them. Very nice.

 

[DSpencer]

Congratulations on the install. Did you find any pressure drop with the larger lines?

Your picture seems to show a small full flow filter, mine uses the sdf26 which is about the same size as the bypass.

 

[y-knot]

Actually the picture is a little deceiving. The By-pass filter is a BE-100 they are about 8" long, the normal filter is a SDF-26, they are 6" long. I ordered the BE-100 which is right in the middle of available BY-pass filter lengths because I was unsure as to where and how I would mount the system. I knew I didn't want the BE-90 but was UN-sure the BE-110 would fit. Looking back, I find I could have very easily fit the BE-110, which I might change out after the 4 BE-100 I ordered are gone. I also ordered a adapter bushing, which will allow me to change the SDF-26 filter size out for the larger SDF-80, which is the original Cummins engine filter size, this will allow me to use up the 7-8 SDF-80's I had laying around. Plus, the larger filters hold more oil and have more filtering area.

On a side note, the new system took almost 3 extra quarts. No I did not have any pressure changes, that was exactly why I used the larger hoses. I have a gauge on the main oil supply line and one on the turbo feed line.

 

[willyslover]

Tony. . Did John make a special adapter for you and use larger pipe size so you didn't have to reduce the -10 fitting down to smaller size for the -8 and did you reduce at the filter head to -8 ... . sorry I don't remember the pipe sizes at each fitting Jonh's and Amsoil's

 

[y-knot]

I replaced the #8 fittings with #10 fittings. After the install and a few shake down runs I decided to make a few adjustment. There was alot of vibration/noise being transferred to the body by the filter mount and the lines. It is a low frequency mum that increases or decreases with the engine rpm. I figure it is the oil pump transferring it's vibrations to the body via the mount and lines when under pressure.

To correct the problem, I removed the mount assembly and added two layers of insulating material to the back of the mount that attaches to the bumper. I used two different types of materials to trap as much vibration as possible. I then removed the two hoses and enlarged the spot where they pass through the front sheet metal. This allowed me to add an extra layer of foam rubber insulation around each hose, and isolate them from the body. Not alot of work, but a good hour or two. The results were positive, and I lost 90% of the noise. Lessons to learn? In the future allow hoses extra room where they pass Thur body panels, and use thicker insulating jackets so they can soak up more vibrations. On the mount itself, use insulating materials to separate the two.