project progress

JStoll · Mar 30, 2003

hi there folks I would like to say once again that this is a great crowd & Im glad I subscribed

below Ill post progressive pics of the truck up to where its at now its realy coming allong well

take care

JAK

PS bodywork is hard & takes a REALY REALY long time I think Ill stick to turning nuts & bolts

Camara · Mar 31, 2003

Looks good. I've done a couple of ground up restorations. It always takes more time and money that you thought. I'd like to see the pics as you progress and when it's finished.

JStoll · Mar 31, 2003

yeh

the time is the biggest thing, the bodywork takes a realy long time. for example I spent 3 hours on it today I scuffed the pasenger door which had only origional paint & had to strip the drivers door down to origional paint & primer because it had an extra couple of layres on it since I was a kid Ive built just about everything Ive ridden or driven so I guess its not realy mine unless its built by me.

I catch myself thinking sometimes I could have gone out & for like $5K & gotten a pretty decent truck but I kinda fell in love with this C&C because of all the room in back thats a 9 foot bed & the gap between the cab & bed is 27 inches the picture doesent do it justice its HUGE Ill be able to fit allot of stuff between the cab & bed leaving the bed empty unlike my current service truck

the truckmajesty pic is the most current pic although the driver door looks a lil diferent now that its been striped

thanks for the reply I was wondering if you guys thought I was crazy for putting so much energy into this old truck but a guy has to do something in his spare time

Ill post more pics as I go allong

take care

JAK

Case500D · Apr 1, 2003

Hey JAK,

Your're not crazy, you just make the rest of us feel more normal

If you can't buy a truck to suit your needs, then build one. I don't think I own one piece of equipment that hasn't been tweaked or modified to fit my needs. OK the wife's truck is the exception. I am looking forward to seeing your final project. Good luck!

Jeremy

JStoll · Apr 1, 2003

I got in like 5 or 6 hours today soon Ill be aplying paint & primer not striping it off

one thing Ive noticed is what ever that stuff is that they use to seal the seams around the floor & roof is terrible with age it gets real hard & cracks letting watter get to the metal & start rust hapening as well as letting it leak in I think Im gona remove all of this from around the watter lip that goes above the windshield around the doors & put something else there I got some silicone stuff from the body suply place what do you all think I should use if that isent the stuff I have to check if its paintable anyway heres a few of pics after todays sandfest

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/sandinghell4

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/sandinghell3

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/sansinghell1

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/sandinghell2

basicalu now I have a bit of finish up sanding on the cab than I have to scuff the bed & strip the lower portion front of front boxes on the bed as there are stone chips that are rusted taht will come through the new paint than I can start with the etch primer on the bare metal I wont aply the primer sealer over the sanded paint till just before Im ready to aply the paint cause if the primer sealer sits on there more than a say Ill have to scuff it & Im getting real tired of sanding :{

anyway ... ... its gona be nice when its done

take care

JAK

SnoDawg · Apr 1, 2003

Silicone Sealer

Get your painting done before you use any kind of silicone (including WD40) This stuff can cause all kinds of problems including fisheyes. It is also very hard to get completely removed so you can paint the area if you have already put some down.

JStoll · Apr 2, 2003

thanks for the reply I am definalty aware of any oil residue even from sweat on ones hands I have a NASON product called prepsol which is a great solvent used before primer or paint is aplied

something else the hood & pass fender I striped to bare metal the drivers fender is new & what I did on the cab & doors was to get it down to origional paint & primer removing verry thick paint & primer from the whole cab accept the back where it was just origional paint & primer the drivers door which I bought used had origional paint so I scuffed it the drivers door I removed extra coats of primer & paint

on the seam sealer Ive seen on many OEMs that a paintable seam sealer is used I beliece thats what I have I look into it more carefully before aplying it the point made in the last post of mine reguarding sealer was to let people know that there is a problem with the seam sealer used by dodge if it wasent known & that a substitute should be used & if anyone knew what exactly would be good to use

thanks again

JAK

BushWakr - RIP · Apr 2, 2003

JStoll · Apr 6, 2003

yesterday (friday) I started aplying the primer Im over the hump! I still have some sanding on the back of the cab & on the bed the green primer you see is etching primer which goes over bare metal to make primer & paint stick aparently you want to try to avoid body filler with the etch primer as it can soften it I will finish up with the etch primer on the cab just a lil & etch primer the top of the bed than Ill primer seal the cab one coat than scuff the bed, do 2 coats of primer sealer over the etch on the bed than a second coat of primer sealer on the cab than its color while the primer is barely dry

Im not gona do the whole sand & fill primer thing as Im not gona try too hard here Im primarily concerned with the paint staying on & killing rust so there may be some ninor sanding scratches here & there that will show through

in one pic you can see the channel above the door I striped out all the sealer here & will aply new stuff all the way around to keep watter from coming into the cab as the old stuff was letting some in

so heres some pics

JAK

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/etchprimer

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/etchprimer1

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/etchprimer3

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/etchprimer2

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/etchprimer4

http://saabpics.nailed.org:3000/gallery/jak/etchprimer5

Philip · Apr 6, 2003

Do the full fill and sand. But you can cheat on this part. If you have what is called a jitterbug sander. If it is air powered. Just put some 400 sandpaper on it and grab the water hose. You can do the finish sanding in a very short time. The last truck I did it took about 1 hour to do the finish sanding. I blew it off and painted a little while later.

JStoll · Apr 6, 2003

I may go over the problem spots sanding a heavy first coat of primer sealer with a block & 400 but I did not buy filler primer I have like $200 into primer easy & dont want to buy more primer the people at the paint shop said I could strip with 80 & lay on 2 heavy coats of primer sealer & it would flow well enough to cover most of the scratches than I have several coats of paint too

I did a pretty good job with the sanding before primer went on to avoid scratches as well but I do see a fer spots that could use some help so mabey I can spot sand you can see the scratches a lil in the pic of the channel above the door

I may be getting a lil lazy on the sanding as well near the end because of all the hours up to now of sanding

phillip I hear you though I shouldent get lazy at the end after all this work & have it function well but not look as good as I can make it when it only takes a lil more effort to get it rite

thanks for the push

JAK

project progress

Delivery Valves?

Idle adjust?

JStoll

Camara

JStoll

Case500D

JStoll

SnoDawg

JStoll

BushWakr - RIP

JStoll

Philip

JStoll

Turbo Diesel Register