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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Proper Fuel Filter Procedure

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I don't think the post above will help you you probably have a filter canister the drops down from the bottom like mine does. It's always been a pain in the @ss for me,I just changed my filter again yesterday and once again my lift pump will not reprime the filter after the change, Basically when the filter is removed the fuel runs back toward the tank and the lift pump will not draw it back up (it can't prime itself or the filter) I thought my lift pump was bad and was going to take it to the dealer but once the pump gets fuel it will pump(12 psi @ idle) so what I did was pressurize the tank with compressed air until the lift pump got a prime and then it filled the canister o. k. I bleed the air first by removing one of the 1/8'' plugs from the top of the canister until it is full (this is messy so I installed a schrader valve there)and then I still need to loosen an injector fitting or two until fuel runs clear. now go clean yourself and your engine and your driveway... and... and,etc. hope I didn't confuse you. -gtsm-
 
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The Schraeder fittings

I got my fittings for the top of the fuel filter at a Parker Hydraulic Fittings place. About $3. 50 or so each.



I also went down to the dealer and bought one of the schraeder valves that connect the fuel line banjo to the VP-44. I think a Cummins place should have the VP-44 fittings. Probably quite a bit cheaper than the dealer.
 
I took a 1/4" petcock valve and attached a 3' piece of rubber hose to it. When I bleed my system, just take the plug out of the top of the fuel filter, open petcock, bump key to cycle lift pump, and then close petcock. Fuel is drained straight into a jug on the floor. No muss, no fuss.
 
I changed mine yesterday. Can't vouch for proper, but it worked great!



Prior to start get yourself about a quart and a half of fresh diesel, check your new filter and make sure that it is complete with a new small "O" ring.



1) Take 1 gallon zip lock bag.

2) Disconnect WIF (Water in Fuel) sensor front lower of canister.

3) Put zip lock over canister, pull it up as hich as you can.

4) Unscrew nut in the center top of the canister.

5) Keep your hand under canister so that it dosen't fall away.

6) When canister is disconnected, make sure that filter comes off with it. I am told that getting the filter off before any siphon action occurrs is good.

7) Close zip lock, take the whole thing out. Won't spill much diesel ths way.

8) Take the smaoo "O" ring off the center post.

9) Take the filter out.

10) I dumped the diesel in a 1 Quart empty oil bottle and sealed it up.

11) Clean out the canister very well.

12) Fill the canister about 3/4 full of clean fresh diesel.

13) Gently insert the new filter. Hopefully you won't overflow.

14) Put a new small "O" ring on the center post.

15) It helps here to put the canister inanother zip lock.

16) Gently put the canister in place and tighten. (10 Ftlb)

17) Remove the ziplock, reconnect the WIF sensor.

18) Turn the key on, wait till "Wait to Start" goes out.

19) Gently "Bump" the starter. At this poing mine actually started up and ran like it should.

20) You can repeat steps 18 & 19 as needed.

21) Check for leaks.



The 24V should be self purging. Mine always has.



Disclaimer below.

From my own experience. Sanctioned only by me.
 
Originally posted by wlowe

Try bleeding the air out of the schrader valve after cycling the lift pump. Worked for me.





I did same think and work perfect, I used same a method when I replaced injectors and truck start almost immediately.

M :cool:
 
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