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Proper trailer elevation

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Atwood remote jack control

I have a 32 foot goose neck enclosed race car trailer. The goose neck on the trailer is height adjustable, but I'm looking for some guidance as to the elevation. right now, empty or loaded, the trailer does not sit level attached to the truck. It rides tilted towards the back axle, proof is that the back tires run hotter than the front. Should I adjust the hitch so that the trailer sits level when attached to the truck? Both axles have brakes.
 
If the trailer is tilted, than there will be more weight on the axle that is lower, in your case the back. You should level the the trailer. What I did with my cargo trailer and car hauler was to flip the axle, (put the axle under the springs) which gave me about 6 inches more height all around. This gave me more curb clearance and the trailers ride level with the truck. ;)
 
If you have the adjustment on the hitch to go down 1 or 2 spots. . do it. . as long as you retain about 5-6 inches... If you are still low to the rear, you will need to do either one of 2 things... Lower the truck or jack the trailer... I had 2" blocks made for my trailer springs and that helped
 
yes adjust the hitch , it should be leveled with the load in it . put the load in and take the measurements then level , retest. :D
 
If the springs fasten to a pivoting piece in the middle( can't remember the name of it) it is self-leveling and carries the weight evenly. If you have rubber torsion springs, definetely level the trailer. Loaded it should be level.
 
Pete the trunnion is self leveling to an extent.

But if one axel is running hotter than the other. Then its packing the load and the other is just floating along . . Guessing that tires are properly inflated . This will also lead to wearing out tires faster than normal as well as blowouts.



Just watch clearance levels between bedsides and neck of trailer. I have the dents to prove that not all trailers even when level have as much clearance as the last one you pulled. After you adjust neck level . Check clearance . A off camber approach to a fuel stop ... ... ... . and well makes for a bad day.

Dale
 
Another thought just came to mind, are your axles the type that can be greased without removing the hub or do you have to remove everything and re-pack the bearing???



I ask because on my car hauler, I replaced all my axles with ones that could be greased without removing the hub assemblys. Gives a nice piece of mind knowing that I can add 2 shots of grease to the bearings before I do a pull without having to pull them apart ;)
 
The correct level of a trailer is very important for tire wear and reduction of blowouts. I had the misfortune in learning the hard way when I installed air lifts on my old 1st. generation truck. My mistake was having too much air in the air bags resulting in the trailer having too much weight shifted to the rear axle. I had two blowouts within 200 miles until I realized my mistake. The tires were not old. This new 3rd gener sits perfectly level with the stock springs and trailer weight and a pleasure to drive. Forgot to include the trailer is a 26' fiver.
 
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they can be greased. carry grease gun in the trailer. Spent over $100 for American made wheel bearings and Royal Purple synthetic grease.
 
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