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Proper way to haul an old tractor.

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I will be hauling an old "A" JD up to the Panhandle and was wondering what is the proper way to tie it down. Also, is it better to leave the transmission in neutral and the brakes unlocked or brakes locked and in gear on the tractor? I have heard both ways and was wanting your opinions.

Thank you.

Don
 
I alway put in park if they have a park pawl, or low gear, lock brakes if they have that capability chain so they cannot move side to side or front to rear. If you don't have boomers you can load the tractor, air down the tires, chain it and then air the tires back up but not tight enough to break anything. I see you have a 5020. Big heavy chunk of steel compared to todays tractors. we had a 5010, '68 5020, and '72 5020 until 1984 when we went 4x4. Took cab off 68 , turbo'd it and put 10 ft. deere blade on front. Kept it for a toy until 1992.

Always get a little shook up and mad at myself) when I don't chain one down enough and get to destination and find it walked on trailer. an A is light (though high profile) so you should not have much trouble
 
Don, I haul a small"H" JD around to shows and such. The key to it is weight and balance,tractors are made front heavy for balance. I haul mine in neutral and chained securely front and rear. :)
 
DBoyd:



I've never transported a tractor but have hauled a few cars on a flat bed or car hauler trailer. The way I've always done it and seen it done by persons more experienced than myself is to put the trailered vehicle in gear and set the parking brake first. Then use three or four ratcheting straps to secure it to the trailer. Use two of the straps at the front corners pulling to the front and toward each side and the same at the rear. That way, if the straps are tight and strong, the tractor will not be able to slide forward, to the rear, or to either side. An alternative method is to attach the straps at each end crossing each other ie the right side of the tractor pulled to the left side of the trailer and so on. The motion of the trailer bouncing over the pavement and the tractor bouncing on its tires will allow it to move a considerable distance if not secured in place, not to mention what will happen when the tow vehicle brakes are applied.



Harvey
 
Many thanks to you all for the good and quick advice. I will heed it well. It is very much appreciated.

Don
 
I don't know how much weight you are hauling with that tractor but I would go with chains over straps. Most 2" straps are only good to like 2000 pounds not nearly enough with the leverage of being on angle and also the possiblity of strap tearing/ripping/rubbing.
 
I have the same tractor that you do, and I believe that it is a little over 6k with the weights that I have on it. I haul mine in neutral. I use 5 attachment points on the tractor to hold it secure. I run a single strap through a clevis on the back of the tractor. I also run a strap over each rear axle housing. I then run a chain through the holes located on the frame just behind the radiator on both sides. I've not had any problems with this method.



Justin



I'm still looking for that hood for you. I'll send you a pm when I find anything.
 
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hello this is my first time to send back a msg but i used to haul equipment for a living and you need to bind down the machine with chains pulling away from the front and rear or towards the middle from the front and rear. Legally you can not use straps on anything that has wheels can't remember the class of chain but there is a law stating what grade of chain to use I do remover they are gold in color this is how d. p. s. can tell at a glance if the right ones are used hope this helps
 
Well this is just my experience - last summer I hauled a '48 Ford about 30 miles on some pretty sharp curves and hills and all we did was lock the brakes, had it in gear, and threw a chain (with comealong) over the middle. No problems, didn't move an inch. Although, the tractor was about as big as my riding mower, LOL. Not mine, my uncles! You should be fine with a chain or two.
 
Run 1 chain through a clevis off the drawbar, and 1 chain or strap off the front , whatever will not scratch the paint if there are no hooles to run a chain. Definately put it in gear, and pull the chains in opposite directions
 
I hauled my captains Ford 8N to NY from VA, the best advise I have is to stop periodically and check all your straps, chains or whatever you use. We used 4 3 inch ratchet tie downs(3000 lbs. each), 6 1 inch tie downs(750 lbs. each), transmission in 1st, both parking pawls engaged. Lost one 3 inch strap with ratchet somewhere between Roanoke VA and the bottom of NJ(ouch if someone hit it!). Tractor stayed put though. Redundancy is a wonderful thing.
 
An old timer told me a while back to go thru the rear wheels (one forward and one backwards on each wheel) and then something on the front and a safety chain to the back off the drawbar. With the wheels secured like that there is no way of it moving because they can't roll at all.



Not sure if it's necessarily good advice but it makes sense to me. :rolleyes:
 
Looks like I've opened an interesting topic. I have always had a fear of losing a vehicle or load on a busy road and causing an accident. Best to do it right and avoid a major catastrophe!! Thanks for the great ideas and advice.

Don
 
I have 2 John Deere R's. When I haul them to shows or pulls I use 4 3/8" chains. (Grade 70 Transport type, gold plating for ID) When I first bought the one it had wheel weights and fluid in both back wheels. When I hauled this home I added 4 10,000 Lb nylon straps. The chains are connected to the tractors as far from the centerline as possible and then crossed to the opposite side of the trailer. I know of multiple people who have had transmission problems from hauling long distances with antique tractors in gear. The backlash in the gear-train and bearing clearances can lead to problems. I prefer to go with overkill on the restrains and leave the transmission in N. I do set the brakes as tight as possible.



By the way one of my R's came from TX, Specifically Joshua, TX about 20 miles south of Ft. Worth. Talk about a trip, hauling that size machine from TX, to PA.



Mike Schevey
 
I put a chain through the hitch and a chain through the belly hole just in front of the head of the motor . tie one from the back and the other to the front of trailer.
 
Originally posted by dseabaugh

I alway put in park if they have a park pawl, or low gear, lock brakes if they have that capability
The manual for my Case 2090 specifically says not to use park because the pawl is not strong enough. Rather, they say put it in nuetral.



Beyond cross tied chains which was mentioned, tapered blocks nailed to the bed if possible against at least both sides of the back wheels would be good insurance. Cross tieing the chains allows some machine flex without stressing the chains.
 
Hello to all!



When hauling all of the Farmall's in the family, we always haul them in neutral. Dad and brother have both had to remove inspection plates and atempt to unjam the transmissions of the tractors. It seems that the transmissions stick in between gears if hauled in neutral. This may only be for Farmalls though.



When Hauling the larger tractors on one load. Brother backs Farmall H. on to the Goose Neck Trailer, As far as he can get it. He then uses one 3/8's inch chain with Fire Hose wrapped over it as to not scratch paint With large clevis in hitch, he runs chain through clevis. Then atatching each end of the chain and binder to trailer. Then on front of tractor, he uses some of the same chain which is then wrapped around the front spindle of the narrow front end. This tractor is bound down with one 5/8's inch binder. The same is done to the other tractors that are pulled onto the rear of the trailer. This puts most of the weight between rear axels of trailer. He then uses larger chains on rear tractor. Next, he uses two binders on either the M, or Super MTA!



Hope everyone has a good upcoming weekend!
 
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