Pusher Pump "Kit"???

[EMDDIESEL]

Ok, i just recieved my "Pusher pump" kit from Enterprise. This "Kit" as they call it, Includes the pump, a short piece of fuel hose and a standard 30 amp relay and a fuse holder. THATS IT, no instructions, no nothing. Thankfully i have Steves instructions from the similar thread. My question now, is which wire do i tap on the stock pump to trigger the pusher pump?

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Oh, in case anybody needs one too, here is there info:

www.enterpriseengine.com 740-246-6329

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

The red one.



-Steve

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Ill ask these questions here Steve so if anybody else gets the kit, they can get there answers now. Ok, first, the pump comes with 2 different size ID fittings, they both have the same size threads, but different size interiors, which one goes on which side of the pump?? Also, they say NOT to use teflon tape or Pipe Dope on the threads. I have never heard of this, what did you do?

Next, they sent a relay with a plug and no wiring diagrams, i know black is ground, but where do White, Blue, Green and red go? I have not seen one of these relays in awhile so i am a bit lost on this one

 

[Evan A. Beck]

On a standard relay like the one you got, the terminals are always numbered. Just to clear things up, the breakdown is like this:



85: Coil 12V+

86: Coil ground

30: Common feed

87: Normally open

87A: Normally closed



What you'll want to do, is hook a 20A fused curcuit to terminal 30 on the realy. Hook ground to 86. Hook the new pump wire to 87. And finally, connect the coil trigger wire (old lift pump circuit) to terminal 85. When the stock lift pump is 'on,' it will trigger the relay, and the pusher pump will come on. Pretty basic.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

See Evan, if you were still in TDR prison where would i be?, blowing fuses and melting wires, welcome back!

 

[DAWG-1]

Pretty basic.

TROUBLE

 

[Riflesmith]

EMD,

I just received my kit from Enterprise yesterday. Mine came with wiring instructions for the relay. The black wire connects to 12V power source through the in-line fuse. The white wire connects to ground. The red wire scotch-locks to the red lift pump wire. The green wire is the 12V source for the pusher pump. The blue wire is not used. Hope this helps.

I do have a question. The pump instructions state that a filter is required upstream of the pump. Is this something we should be installing when installing these pumps on our trucks? When I have changed the fuel filter, there is always a small amount of grit in the bottom of the filter canister. Will this harm the Carter pusher pump?

 

[John]

Evan

Excellent Evan.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Glad to help!

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

?????

Originally posted by EMDDIESEL

the pump comes with 2 different size ID fittings, they both have the same size threads, but different size interiors, which one goes on which side of the pump?? Also, they say NOT to use teflon tape or Pipe Dope on the threads.

Well mine's sitting at home and uhhhh I was wondering if anyone had the answer to the above?

<hr>

Truck Bio:

Y2K+1 3500 4X4 Quad Cab 4:10:1 LSD



Powerpack By Bank's (4 inch exhaust,High ram intake,wastgate mod to 38 psi,ottomind TLC +guages,K&N) , Jakit's Front End Leveling Kit with 255/85R16 BFG http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/ M/T's Custom Rhino Liner (see Tool Man's truck feature)DeeZee Black Diamond Plate Bed Rails And Tool Box , WAAG Side tubes with kick~outs Mopar Performance accessories-Sill plates-hitch cover-cargo aux lamp'n'Power, Hadley air systems 150 psi comp and air storage. DTT~93%TC~&~VB~TC Smart controller, Mag-Hytec'sDouble Deep Trans pan,DD injectors+Van Aken+Autometer Guages. Check out Tool's Stuff#ad

 

[Bigsaint]

My advice, from personal experience with the Mallory,would be to put a filter pre-pusher pump. I had a sediment bowl type 'filter' when my first Mallory died, Mallory stated that failed due to sediment causing caviatation in the gerator. I believe all the Carter pumps are 'vaned'. I don't know, wish I did, if that type of system is more or less prone to failure from debris, but a filter of some sort, I'm currently using a Earl's screen type filter, certainly won't hurt you. Just be sure to pick one that is not restrictive. The Earl's is rated at 5 GPM, more than enough, but maybe not the best choice if you are going to use the rubber line, too many fittings to make it work. If you are going to upgrade to braided SS line, the Earl's filter just simply screws in line, piece O cake.



Others are running without pre-filters and having good results, but IMHO, you are taking a chance that is easily prevented when doing the install.



Can anyone tell me which is more prone to debris failure, vaned or gerator type pumps? I know the tolerances are fairly tight with the gerator pumps, I have never seen the inside of a vaned pump, just curious.



Scott W.

 

[Un-Hemi]

IMHO, the gerotor-style pump is more sensitive to debris than a vane pump. If the gerotor pump encounters a piece of debris, it can jam in the virtually-zero clearance between the outer and inner 'gears' (there's undoubtably technical names for both), or at least grind its way through, scoring both 'gears'. With a vane pump, the vanes are held against the housing by centrifugal force only, and are capable of riding over a piece of junk by sliding back into the slots on the rotor momentarily. Regardless of type, of course, pump longevity is improved with pre-filtering, so no chunks reach the pump.



Now that I'm back from a vacation that included blowing up my Dodge Caravan in Alberta, and the retrieval of same, I'll get right on the lift pump problem. It was showing some pretty miserable performance while towing through the Rockies!



Tom

 

[Doc Tinker]

I'd like to thank Evan Beck and Riflesmith for their posts. You guys made it easier to do my CarQuest pusher pump install. Yeah, leave it to ol' Doc to pinch a penny. I gotta, with Mrs Doc breathing down my neck!



I'll point out that I decided to solder the wires at the pump. I didn't like the idea of using a scotchlock that low to the ground. I taped my splice with a self curing friction tape (don't know what it's really called).



Doc

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Originally posted by Doc Tinker

... I'll point out that I decided to solder the wires at the pump. I didn't like the idea of using a scotchlock that low to the ground...

Doc

Good choice, Doc. Avoiding scotch-locks at all costs is a GOOD thing.



*LOL* EMD... Still crackin up over the 'TDR Prison' thing...

 

[EMDDIESEL]

My "Pusher Pump" install is on hold pending replacement of my stock lift pump which after installing a fuel pressure gauge today i realised i have 4psi at idle and ZERO at WOT. Now i have to deal with the Dealer for my broken clockspring, broken door contact, leaking rear end and defective lift pump.