Pyro Accuracy Q&A

[jtisdale]

I checked my egt's with engine warm at idle and at idle with the PAC on. I used a non-contact thermometer (with a probe option) to do this. I just removed my probe and put the other one in, being careful not to make contact with the inside of the manifold. NOTE my probe is located in the exhaust manifold, PRE-TURBO. The readings were nearly identical. 220* at idle and 350* with Pac on.

So, is it possible for my pyro to be "off" ONLY on the high end of the gauge?

The only reason I ask this is... I often hear others talk about how HOT (brand x) stage III's run. I am running III's with a Megacannon and 4" turbo back with the stock turbo, and the hottest I have seen it (running empty) is about 1200* +- 50*. This is really mashing on it, and as soon as I let off, it drops pretty quick.

At cruise I see usually 550 to 650, on the flats at about 50-60mph (again, empty).

Does this seem right to you guys running this set-up?

Any ideas how I can quickly, easily, and accuratly check the upper end of the gauge?



Thanks, Jim

 

[illflem]

Your cruising temps sound about right



Most all gauges are designed to be most accurate in the middle of their range. For a pyro 600-900° should be pretty darn close to the correct temp, going out from either end the accuracy will decrease.



If you have a accurate thermometer that goes high enough you can attach the thermometer and the pyro probe to a light bulb with foil to get a pretty high reading.

The red part of a candle flame is most always 800°

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Jim,



I have a Banks EGT gauge. I also have a digital gauge that I have used to check the analog one. What I have found is the analog one is very slow and inaccurate below 450 or so. It seems to be fairly accurate against the digital gauge above 450.



Dan

 

[LSMITH]

Jim, told you so The EGT from the 3's is really not that bad. If I hold WOT from 0-130 on a 90* day with 80% humidity I see 1383. That takes 25 seconds or so? That is a LONG time with it pinned.



You are probably a little hotter than 1200 but not a lot. The probes with most pyros are too big to respond quickly, you would need to hold it for a couple seconds at least to see the true peak, like towing a trailer. My thermocouple is tiny in diameter, and responds very fast. Less than 2 seconds to go to 1000 in a flame from dead cold. The competition thermocouples for the autometers are supposed to be a lot faster than the standard one you likely have... ... ...

 

[jtisdale]

I am sure I will hear "I told you so" from a few other members if they read this.

Thanks guys,

Jim

 

[PLaFrombois]

Jim, It's interesting that we're seeing close numbers with setups that are completely different. When I drove up to K&S I was watching the gauges and at 70mph my temps are at 650-675. Dropping to 60mph they are below 600.

Paul

 

[jtisdale]

Paul,

Thats what has me puzzled. The heat rises quicker with these compared to the 275's, but it levels out about the same place. Boost however, is off the scale, until I get a bigger gauge.

 

[LSMITH]

Jim, mine was as hot stock as it is now with the 3's, VA and ECM, lots more fun now though.



75 MPH I see 675@6 psi, at 60 I see 610@4 psi, WFO I see 1225@36 psi nearly instantly, with boost steady and EGT slowly climbing, I would guess that the egt rise is due to heat soak.

 

[CFAR]

your temps are right in line with mine. ~1200 max 600-700 65mph and all I have is a K&N.

 

[PLaFrombois]

I've figured out what the real reason of your question. You needed someone to help you decide on the next bomb upgrades for the truck so you can explain it to the wife. Here's what I think you should get in order to help with those high temp readings. Bigger turbo and 5" exhaust. This should help with possibly lowering those high temperatures you're seeing. Once you get those items, she'll want you to get rid of the parts you just replaced. Just tell her I'll give you a couple of bucks for the 4" exhaust, then you wouldn't have that laying around in the garage.

Paul