Pyro Install Questions

[DCornelius]

No, it's not about where to mount the probe, though I still haven't decided yet.



I received my ISSPro guage and SRT-10 A-pillar yesterday from Geno's. It seems that I will need to pick up some wire for the lamp power and ground. What guage wire should I buy?



I read about the Quiktaps working well, so I'm going use those to tap into the dimmer switch and cigarette lighter. I hope that I can find them at Walmart. For the ground, I suppose I can use some type of ring connector under an existing, grounded screw or bolt.



For the probe itself, I noticed that I received two different size threaded deals. One was already fitted to the probe. The other smaller, brass-colored one came in a separate box. Which should I use? It looks like many of the pictures I've seen have the smaller one installed.



Also, could someone describe the tapping process? Are the threads cut all the way into the drilled hole, or do you stop short of the bottom to give the threads a place to park against?



I'm sorry for the newbie questions. I've never tapped a pipe thread before and I'd hate to mess up.



Thanks,

David

 

[jwilliams3]

go to www.tstproducts.com

 

[ATSDiesel]

I would go with 16 or 18 guage wire. The second threaded piece might be a bung to weld into the exhaust.

 

[drewRoberts]

I used a 31/64 drill bit since it is just a little shy of 1/2 that the plug is, but a little larger then the 7/16 they reccomend to drill the hole. this makes it easier to get the tap started.



I didnt worry about having the engine running or anything, but I did use a thick grease that not only lubed the bit, but also held onto the shavings and cleaned it often. then once the hole it drilled I ran the tap all the way through useing the same grease to capture as much metal as possable pulling it out and cleaning it often.



I did hear some metal hitting the turbo, but it was not moving fast enough nor was it enough to hurt it.



second, the other piece sounds like it is the plug that is used for the boost fitting. that goes into the intake. even post turbo temps would melt brass.

 

[Parks]

The second piece is an 1/8 adapter for the thermocouple. The thermocouple comes with a 1/4" adapter already installed. It is there to give you an option.

As far as the manifold goes drewroberts pretty much spells it out. The only thing different would be the drill and tap if you choose to go with the 1/8" adapter.

 

[DCornelius]

The second piece is an 1/8 adapter for the thermocouple. The thermocouple comes with a 1/4" adapter already installed. It is there to give you an option.

As far as the manifold goes drewroberts pretty much spells it out. The only thing different would be the drill and tap if you choose to go with the 1/8" adapter.

Is there reason to use one size over another?

 

[bighornram]

I'm sorry for the newbie questions. I've never tapped a pipe thread before and I'd hate to mess up.

Pix if they will help ya.

Pyrosensor Pix

 

[TSpecht]

The only thing I can add is when tapping make sure to use plenty of lube and if resistance increases signficantly, don't assume "It can take a little more before it breaks. " When that happens is increases the possibility of hearing the dreaded "ping" sound signifying a broken tap. I made that mistake, instead of backing the tap off I decided to try turning it a little harder. Back it off a little and try again instead of trying to force it because it is not fun removing a broken tap from the hole. Pretty much just take your time and it should go well.

 

[Parks]

When using the 1/8" adapter it is a smaller hole to drill and if you mess that hole up you can always go larger. Also, for people wishing to install their thermocouple post turbo in their exhaust brake. Most exhaust brakes come with a 1/4" hole already drilled and tapped.

Hope this helps.

Brandon

 

[DCornelius]

Everybody's been very helpful. I still haven't decided which location yet, but I believe I'm going with the 1/4" jobber.



I did get the guage installed in the SRT-10 A-pillar today, and got all my wiring done. It's such a great feeling when you see that light come on and the dimmer work. I've never done any real wiring except for the brake controller, but as you know, with the factory pig tail, that wiring job is pretty much a no-brainer.



Tomorrow is the day on the drilling and the tapping. Wish me luck!



Thanks for all the help,

David

 

[testraub]

Feel like making a run up to the DC area? Got the tools and wire to install it all in a few hours. Come on up spend a few hours, tick off my wife and leave with your gauges in.

 

[DCornelius]

Testraub, I got it done this afternoon. I decided I couldn't afford the fuel to drive up to dc ;-)



I wound up going with the 1/8" adaptor above the turbo flange. Just as everyone suggested, I used plenty of grease while drilling and tapping. I also placed magnets around the "drill site". After I got the hole drilled, I masked off the tailpipe and cranked the engine. I let it run for a few seconds, then turned it off. I didn't hear any shavings bounce through the turbo, so the grease and magnets did their trick.



The most tedious part for me was tapping the hole. I have no experience tapping so I didn't expect to have to run the tap in that far for the fitting to start catching threads. It makes sense since it's a pipe tap. I backed the tap out completely each cycle, and cleaned the flutes. That really made it take a long time. I don't know if it's necessary to back it out all the way after each cut cycle, but it finally got done.



Man it's such a great feeling of satisfaction to do something like that yourself--cheaper too. It's funny, but through the whole process from ordering to installing, the hardest part for me was finding the da** pipe tap. I came "this" close to buying a whole $50 set at Sears just to get the 1/8" NTP. Luckily, I called Ace Hardware before I went to Sears. They had either size I could have gone with for $4. 50.



Thanks for all the input and suggestions. I'm relieved that it's done.



David

 

[J&LRam]

David

I was lucky as I used my Jacobs exhaust brake when I tapped mine. Wow . Blew the chips right out. As a toolmaker tapping is a normal daily operation for me and I would suggest you practice on a piece of metal 1/4 thick or so. The tap is a taper pipe tap so don't run the tap all the way through. Thats another reason for some practice runs.

A tap is very hard to the point its almost brittle so take it easy. Just turn clockwise till it binds up some then back it out half turn, clears the chip, then keep repeatin' the process. Use lots of lube and practice first... ... ..... JIM