Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Pyro installation in ex. manifold question

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Injectors, whats best?

Status
Not open for further replies.
EGT gauge is on the way. From reading archives it looks best to mount in in the manifold. Any input on the process? Meaning, do I need to pull the turbo or should I just drill away with grease on the bit or a magnet, etc. ? How long will it take to drill throught the cast iron and how thick is it at that part of the manifold so I have a reference when stopping to inspect the hole as I go?
 
I got my guage from TST and they had excellent directions, goto their website and you can print them.



I had no problems drilling into the manifold, but tapping it took a little longer than i expected. I had trouble getting it to start.
 
You dont have to take the turbo off, just loosen the nuts almost all the way just to where they are still holding the turbo then cut a piece of cardboard and place between the turbo and manifold then you can drill the hole without having to worry about shavings getting into the turbo. A magnetic bit would be wise but not neccesary, the manifold isnt very thick so it doesnt really take that long to drill through then when you are finished use a magnet to remove the shavings from the area, then you can crank the enigne dont start it just let it crank one time to blow all the shavings out of the hole you just drilled.
 
You won't find even one pyro manufacturer who recommends anything other removing the turbo for the simple reason it only takes one chip wedged in the tight tolerances in-between the housing and turbine to stop it dead while hot exhaust gases warp it. Time for a new turbo. Do it the right way and remove the turbo. Some folks just remove the four turbo bolts and stick a piece of cardboard in the space. I find it no big deal to remove it all the way and start the engine after drilling and tapping to blow the chips out.

You'll find some people who say just use a greased tap and a magnet, you'll also find some people who win the lottery.



Good instructions here http://www.dieselpage.com/gipda.htm
 
Don't remove turbo....

My mechanic, a Cummins Rep, didn't remove the turbo or even loosen the bolts when he tapped mine, nor did he use a magnetic tip or grease. He is the same guy who tapped mine and a few other friend's manifolds as well. He said it wasn't necessary simply because the exhaust side just blows out and is not being recirculated. He just drilled, tapped, installed the port and probe, and that was that. I even asked him about it and he said there was no need to worry about it. This coming from a guy whose career is these engines so I am willing to take his word for it.



Will
 
Remind me to avoid any Cummins Reps in Ga.

Some mechanics still swear that adding ATF to diesel fuel is the greatest thing in the world...
 
Originally posted by CRobertson

I had no problems drilling into the manifold, but tapping it took a little longer than i expected. I had trouble getting it to start.



Countersink the hole and they will start easier and straighter.
 
I agree with Bill about this. Remove the turbo. It's not hard. I did it that way because I just don't trust grease and magnets poked thru the hole to get all of it. There are a lot of chips from drilling. I had a magnet pushed into the manifold while I was drilling and then when I tapped. I still found a lot of small chips in there when I cleaned it up afterwards.
 
I say just drill it. It's about a 1/4" thick so there's no chance of the chips getting in untill you break thru. Also clearances on the exhaust side are not as tight as the intake. Anything missed will probably fly out before the turbo is even spinning. Just my $. 02
 
Drill then use the magnet.

I agree with bighammer, drill it and whatever chips the magnet misses will be gone before the turbo sees em.
 
Someone answer me why not one single pyro manufacturer mentions greasy taps and magnets? There is a reason.

In fact the only place I've seen this method recommended is on this website. I've seen the clearance in plenty of turbos and have also seen the size of the chip that comes off when the drill pops though the manifold, trust me it's large enough jam the turbo. There was a diesel tech member here who posted some pics of a turbo that was destroyed by a chip a few years ago, it wasn't pretty.



wsmalley, sorry to knock your mechanic. I just feel the greasy tap and magnet method is chancy, to do absolutely nothing is downright reckless.
 
Originally posted by illflem

Someone answer me why not one single pyro manufacturer mentions greasy taps and magnets?



My guess is that they just want to cover their back-side. For the same reason that hair dryer manufacturers have "Do not use in shower" as a warning label. To many people want to sue for their own mistakes and make other people pay for it.



I personally magnetized the bit and tap. No grease. It did very little to mag. the tap, only worked on the drill bit. Then used a small pencil type mag. to get the bits. Had no problems.



If you use a sharp bit (I used a new TurboMax) so the bits were very fine.
 
Someone answer me why not one single pyro manufacturer

Pricol gauges bought from TST about three months ago said Nothing about removing the turbo, unbolting the turbo or anything like it. Just drill (Which I did with a shop vac running), tap, and fire.
 
I also used the grease/magnet method. I used grease on the drill bit as well. When I was done tapping the hole, I used a flashlight and a Q-tip to pick up what was left. A few little flakes was all I picked up... ... ... 100,000 miles ago.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top