Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Pyro installed, but not reading- please help

[Hohn]

I finally got boost and EGT gauges!! Both are Autometer ProComp Ultralights.

Here's what I did, please tell me where I went wrong:



1) Drilled and tapped 1/8" NPT hole post turbo (1 inch after the turbine flange).

2) Installed Autometer fitting with grey Permatex Anti-seize.

3) Installed thermocouple to fitting, snugged up but not real tight. (guess about 12lb-ft)

4) Connected yellow wire harness that came w/ thermocouple (EGT probe) to pigtails on the thermocouple. The terminals screw together, one red wire, one yellow.

5) Fished wires to the cab.

6) Connected yellow and red wires to gauge per Autometer direction (no solder anywhere)

7) Connected red and black wires from gauge to 12V hot and ground sources in the fuse box (position #20 i think-- the one for power seats, which i don't have)



The needle on the EGT never moves at all, and it rests at about the 6 o'clock position, instead of at zero (which might be normal-- anyone know?)



When I connected the yellow and red wires to the gauge at the terminals, I used the lock washers and star washers that came with the guage (for securing it to the little brace). Could this possible cause no reading?



I checked my fusebox connection with a test light, so i am pretty sure it's right.



I am baffled as to why it isn't reading at all, and it's pegged at a negative value (off the scale).



PLEEEZE help-- I have never tapped threads until today, and i would like to make this project a success. Plus, I need the EGT before I can get injectors!













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HOHN

 

[SteveE]

Sounds like bad ground

When I hooked up mine I put the ground to a screw that was grounded to body.



Take an ohm meter and check for a good ground.



If ground is good, try swapping wires at meter.

Is it possible that directions are not correct??



My guage reads all the time, wether ignition is on or off. Diprocal



Just a few thoughts,

Steve

 

[kaptn]

I went out and checked mine. The needle rests at zero and slowly rises to 100,200,300,kinda quick. Does your light work? Maybe the gauge is bad as I cant see how you wired it wrong because mine says yellow and red on the back of gauge. (idiot proof) I have black and white for 12volt,red and yellow for thermocouple which is almost bullet proof. Good luck

 

[mlockner]

If I remember right when I did my gauges there was a jumper or something on the back between the 2 posts and it did not work till I took it off.

Mike

 

[Hohn]

Originally posted by kaptn

I went out and checked mine. The needle rests at zero and slowly rises to 100,200,300,kinda quick. Does your light work? Maybe the gauge is bad as I cant see how you wired it wrong because mine says yellow and red on the back of gauge. (idiot proof) I have black and white for 12volt,red and yellow for thermocouple which is almost bullet proof. Good luck

Kaptn: Permission to come aboard, Sir!



My setup is just like yours. It says yellow and red right on the back of the gauge. I haven't connected the lights to any of my gauges-- I wanted to get them all working before ironing that tidbit out. i also have black and red for 12V, yellow and red for thermocouple, and the black and white pair of bulb wires.



Since my needle is pointing straight down, I am thinking that the gauge is crap. AARRGGHH!!



Hopefully, i can just swap this with another one at the local diesel shop instead of having to call autometer:-{}



Hohn

 

[TowPro]

Mine did as well. But I think that would cause a reading of 0.

Originally posted by mlockner

If I remember right when I did my gauges there was a jumper or something on the back between the 2 posts and it did not work till I took it off.

Mike

 

[HeberRam]

Chances its not the gauge. . More like the pyro sender. . Try pulling the probe out some and see if this helps? I have found if the probe is in to far it grounds, and you get no reading...





Steve

 

[SteveE]

EGT Gauge

I went out and looked at my gauge and it reads what ever temp the manifold is at. all the time.

Pictured is the gauge, truck has not run today and it about 48 degrees outside.

Hope you find the problem,

Steve

 

[IdaH.O.Train]

Hohn, I know when I installed mine my brother-in-law hooked the wires up the way most wires go and low and behold the gauge didn't work. After reading the instructions from Isspro it said to hook the wires up just the opposite (It's been awhile so I don't know what colors went where) and then it worked fine.



I would suggest double checking the instructions to make sure the wires are hooked up the way they want them and not the way that might make sense. Just a thought.

 

[ACoyle]

I have Westach gages, but, EGT's should be about the same. I seem to recall a similar problem. Questions:

1) Is the probe in the exhaust stream? It should purtrude a little from the bottom of the coupling.



2) I believe that you have tow wires comimg from the thermocouple. Thermocouples work by genertatine a voltage that increases witht he amount of heat. It is a very small voltage. It is a DC voltage. You should have tow wires coming from the thermocouple connecting to tow places on the gage. If all h\that is in order try reversing the wires. I think this happened to be, but, it's been a while.



Of gourse check grounds with a meter and voltages, also with a meter.



Hope this helps.



AC

 

[TowPro]

How did you make out on this?



An EGT gauge is really just a volt meter. Like someone else pointed out, the probe puts out a small DC voltage, as the heat goes up, the voltage increases, and the gauge reads higher.



You can use a Digital Volt meter to test the probe, but I don't recall what the output is, I just remember its real low (mV).



I had a Westech in my last truck, and the first gauge I received was defective.



Hope this helps.

 

[TSRAM]

I put the westach gauges in my truck a couple of months ago and would have swore I had everything correct. The pyro diddn't work at all and maybe even read a little behind the 0 a bit. I switched the wires at the back of the gauge and now all is well. It can hurt to try if you haven't already... ... ... .

 

[Hohn]

GOT IT!!

Well, I figure out my gauge problem.



You guys were right-- it was a ground problem. I ended up using an alligator clamp and grounding it part of the metal inside the area by the fusebox (convenient, I thought).



I can't get the EGT over 800, so I know I have a serious fuel shortage, curable with DD3s



Now if only I can finish my fabbed gauge mount and get all the lights connected. .



Do you think that the dimmer switch can handle the draw of 3 gauges lights?



Hohn

 

[JBlock]

Dimmer

If your three guages draw current like my ISO-PRo's EV, the dimmer switch is the way to go, I think the dimmer control is on termal 5 in fuse box.



Someone correct me if I am wrong, check the fuse out put with a volt meter; the voltage should drop as you dim the dash lights.



it's been a year and the truck not handy as I am oversea this month.

 

[ACoyle]

Please be careful with your EGT's. You are post turbo and if you start seeing some of the numbers that are posted here on your gage, well, it won't be prety.



AC

 

[CORed]

800 - POST TURBO??

Hohn,



I recall you said you installed the probe post-turbo. If this is the case, 800 is to be expected and really not that low.



I have read in the recent TDR mag the pre-turbo is more the concern and you must add anywhere from 200-500 degrees to a post-turbo reading to determine pre-turbo temps. Those are the killer ones. Cummins doesn't recommend going over 1200 I seem to recall - PRE-turbo.



Anybody else with more detail?



Steve

 

[Hohn]

I am post-turbo, but VERY close to the compressor. Regardless, I am figuring about a 250° drop across the turbo.



That gives me 1000° post turbo for my limit.



I put the probe where I did because I figured it would be easy enough to fill in later if I wanted to move it, and I was scared about drilling and tapping the manifold since I hadn't ever tapped threads before. (I know-- a wimp).



The main reason was convenience. I figured removing the turbo was over my head mechanically (and I had little time). I had to remove the turbo to go pre because I was afraid of getting metal filings in the manifold (and thus, the turbo).



To me, the gauge reading low is a known quantity, and I can handle that.



Getting little bits in the turbo and manifold (if I tried the grease method) was a big unknown, and scared me a lot.





I may get up the balls to move it pre-turbo later, since it wouldn't take much to do, and I could plug the old hole easily with a pipe plug.



HOHN

 

[Billy Diesel]

I just installed my gauges this weekend. Unbolting the turbo is easy, except for the bottom-back bolt. Plenty of penetrating lube, two combination wrenches doubled up for more torque, and still dropping a nut trying to break it free. Once free, I took the box the gauge came in, cut it into a tee, and slid it in between the flanges. I then stuck what ever was handy (cresent wrench) between the card board and manifold flange. To make sure all the shavings were out, I vacuumed, used a small magnet, and then briefly started it before putting it back together. Just make sure the garage door is open, as it is a bit loud!



Tapping it wasn't that hard. Just take it slow. Besides, if you mess it up, you get a new 3-piece manifold, and your old manifold makes an excellent test bed... ... .



Total install time of pyro, boost, and fuel pressure was 8 hours, and that included 2 trips to town and a few beer breaks.

 

[Hohn]

Thanks everyone. It was a grounding problem. Once I found a good ground, all is well. Thanks again.



Man, It's VERY eye-opening to watch the behavior of boost and EGT while driving!



HOHN