Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Pyrometer Installation

[LJHagen]

Ok guys... Enough folks have told me I've 'gotta' install a pyrometer that I'm almost ready to take the plunge. Still, I don't know if I can drill a hole in the manifold above the turbo in good conscience. Even if it’s extra work, I’ve gotta pull that turbo if I’m gonna do this. On that premise, who’s the best source for the gauge? (I’ll probably to triple with turbo-boost and oil-temp while I’m at it). I’ve seen those window-pillar gauge mounts, but where I live (Northern Colorado) there are a few too many overpaid yuppies on mountain bikes to dare to obstruct my visibility any more than it already is. Also, since I’ll be dropping the turbo, where’s the best place to get a new turbo flange gasket?



I appreciate all your help guys!

 

[Joe G.]

How about a signature so we know what sort of beast you are herding around?

 

[BDech]

I just moved my gages from under dash area to a three gage pillar mount and it really doesnt obsturct the view at all they line up with the pillar so as to keep the same profile from the drivers seat. I put mone under the dash for the same reason and I never felt good looking down under full throtle so up they went.

I bought mine from TST and they seem to be pretty good 3 yrs old and no problems. The install is a piece of cake just a little time consuming the only advice I have is to pull the plug in the firewall near the steering column out and insert the wires thru it then put it back. Ive done 2 now and that works pretty good compared to trying to push them thru while its in

 

[CumminsPower98]

Drilling the manifold with the turbo in place is real easy if you just take your time. I will tell you how I have done four rigs. I magnetize the drill bit and then coat it with grease. After drilling I use a pencil magnet to fish out what's left which is not much. When drilling I pull the bit several times before breaking through and clean the shavings off and regrease it.

 

[JGheen]

Why would one take that chance?? I don't understand it..... pulling the turbo is not that hard and can be removed and installed in less than an hour. Turbos are damn expensive and I wouldn't take any chance of metal going through the turbine.

Just pull the turbo, shove a shop towl inside the port to prevent any shavings from getting in the manifold and drill away. Just my $0. 02, but everyone has their different ways of doing things.

 

[LJHagen]

Pulling the turbo?

When you pulled the turbo, did you replace the flange gasket? If so, do you know a good place to get my hands on one?



By the way, I'm still learning how this site works. . Just looked at your truck Joe... All I can say is "wholly @#!!". Nice truck! Can you still tow?

 

[BDech]

if you buy your gauges from TST they have them

 

[JGheen]

Re: Pulling the turbo?

Originally posted by LJHagen

When you pulled the turbo, did you replace the flange gasket? If so, do you know a good place to get my hands on one?



By the way, I'm still learning how this site works. . Just looked at your truck Joe... All I can say is "wholly @#!!". Nice truck! Can you still tow?

You could probably get a replacement gasket form a local Cummins parts dealer. I would not buy one from the Dodge dealer, they mark it up like $15 over what Cummins will charge you. You may even be able to get away with re-using the original depending on how many miles are on it.

Thanks for the comment on the rig. I can still tow a hitch trailer but unless I removed the tailgate I cannot tow a gooseneck anymore. I sold my goosenck Featherlite when I lifted it anyway. Used to have a '71 GMC truck as my toy, had to sell it too and now my diesel is my toy. Oo.

 

[SRadke]

Hey LJHagen, your sig says TST #1 plate. Is that right? Seems an order of magnitude off for an otherwise stock truck.



Check around and see if you can find a local Cummins dealer. They'll have your gasket.



-Scott

 

[Berrigan]

I pulled my turbo, took 15 minutes. Then pulled it back an inch or so and covered the inlet with duct tape. I had to drill at an angle cuase my thermocouple was long and would have bottomed out in the manifold. Also I wanted to see the clearance in there. Remember the manifold outlet is 2 ports. Dont drill in the center or you will ruin it. Once you get the turbo off you will see what I mean. I reused the gasket no problem. Im glad I pulled mine and would do it that way again. Bill

 

[LJHagen]

Originally posted by SRadke

Hey LJHagen, your sig says TST #1 plate. Is that right? Seems an order of magnitude off for an otherwise stock truck.



Check around and see if you can find a local Cummins dealer. They'll have your gasket.



-Scott

Beginning to wonder thay myself... Shop that installed it said it'd put me at 230 hp, which leads me to believe it's more like a #12 than a #1 (I've learned much since I brought it to the shop). They might have been using their own verbage since I didn't hide that I was a recovering gasser (first diesel).

 

[SRadke]

230 hp on a 97 five speed would be a #12 plate. Back when I had my mildly bombed 96 model I chose a #11 which put me at about 280. That was a sweet running first timers truck. The good ol' days.



-Scott

 

[myneckbred]

Pyro Install

Just finished installing my gauges last weekend. The pyro is by far the most intimidating of the three (pyro, boost, trans temp). However in the end it really wasn't a big deal. Here's a brief rundown on my install.



1. First locate both the exhaust/turbo gasket (mopar $4. 00)

Also bought the oil drain pipe gasket. (mopar $2. 00)

2. Remove air inlet hose and disonnect the tailpipe from the turbo.

3. Remove oil drain pipe and loosen hose clamp on lower

connection near crankcase.

4. Now remove the 4 nuts attaching the turbo to the manifold.

5. Drill and tap manifold per instrucions provided with your

pyro.

6. Reassemble in reverse order.



Just take your time. Should take and hour or so. Good luck.

 

[LJHagen]

Re: Pyro Install

Originally posted by myneckbred

Just finished installing my gauges last weekend. The pyro is by far the most intimidating of the three (pyro, boost, trans temp). However in the end it really wasn't a big deal. Here's a brief rundown on my install.



1. First locate both the exhaust/turbo gasket (mopar $4. 00)

Also bought the oil drain pipe gasket. (mopar $2. 00)

2. Remove air inlet hose and disonnect the tailpipe from the turbo.

3. Remove oil drain pipe and loosen hose clamp on lower

connection near crankcase.

4. Now remove the 4 nuts attaching the turbo to the manifold.

5. Drill and tap manifold per instrucions provided with your

pyro.

6. Reassemble in reverse order.



Just take your time. Should take and hour or so. Good luck.

That's it... I'm gonna do it! Like I said, the boys at the local shop keep trying, but every time they adjust my fuel curve, I'm either lean or black as coal... Hey, any advice on where to get info on how to adjust that fuel curve once I get the gauges in there???

 

[Forrest]

I used a pencil magnet, on a flexible shaft. It reached thru the hole, waaaay down in there & cleaned it out. I greased the bit too & still got a lot of filings in there.

 

[JLEONARD]

Yep... grease coated drill... remove, clean, and re-grease just before you break thru. Pencil magnet AND a shop vac for insurance.

Will be installing a pyro in my son's "new" 94 tonightn using that method.

 

[PullinRam]

The above way is exactly how i installed mine. But be sure your using a darn good pencil magnet when digging around inside the manifold. The small magnet pulled itself out of the end of the rod and stuck to the bottom of the manifold in my case! Boy what a chore that was getting that out. It was either pull the turbo or fish around for a while. I was lucky enough to seat the tiny magnet back into the rod and pull it out. Good luck!

 

[HerbW]

Go to TST website

Go to the TST website and they have installation instructions. It's a piece of cake. I've did a couple myself. I'd start out with a small drill bit and work up to the one you need for the threading. If you get the pyrometer probe with 1/8" hole, it's really a small hole. Take your time and be sure to back out the tap often to do a good thread job. Don't cut threads all the way so you have an interference fit. That is most install instructions. Good luck, Herb

 

[Coalsmoke]

Most pros leave the turbo on. Save yourself the hassle, get a pencil magnet, and your good to go. people get too paranoid sometimes and think that a 0. 001" metal fleck is going to grenade a turbo at idling speed. Clean it out well with the pencil magnet (like said above) and you'll be just fine.

 

[britannic]

Another trick is to wear safety googles and leave the engine idling when you drill - all of the chips are instantly blown out.



Personally, I think it's worth the hassle to do it cold and unbolt what you need to do the job to your personal satisfaction. All of the tips/procedures previously posted in this thread will get the job done right - so take your pick .