2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pyrometer Problems

[JGamble]

Gents,



My Pyro has gone out/faulty #@$%!. Before I decide to buy another gauge, I wanna make sure I have exhausted all that needs to be. After I put in the Adrenaline and the new clutch, I was able to run the truck on Power Level 10.

I was oringally reading 0 on the pyro while I was cruising on a medium power level (3). This would stay that way till i got the clutch and was able to hit up PL10. When I drove it a couple days in PL10, I would get a couple of readings I am not sure if they were right. Also, the readings would only be if I was WOT. That registered at 350... . I know it isnt right. So would anyone know what the Voltage should be to the gauge so when I am driving I can test it? I would hate to buy a gauge and not need it because of something else..... any one have a good idea? Thanks gents



Kind Regards,

John

 

[CurtLee]

What brand of gauge was it? I had an autometer go bad and replaced it. The only problem with new one was it had a loose wire and made it so it wouldn't work at times, i fixed the wire and haven't had problem since.

 

[EForbes]

you need to check the thermal probe in the exhaust, it may be burned away.
I dont know how old your guage is, also make sure thermal probe wires are tight, and are not damaged.
Eric

 

[JGamble]

isspro is the gauge... ... . whats the price difference between gauge and thermal probe? Also, if I remove the thermal probe on the truck, and install a new one, do I need to remove the whole deal as to not get metal shards into it while installing the new one? Or should I be fine?



Thanks

 

[CurtLee]

I'm not sure on the price. But there is very little chance that it melted away, i've never seen it happen. You may want to check out Geno's website for prices.

 

[Ram4Sam]

Before you start buying parts, check all the wiring connections and make sure they are clean and tight. Pyros use mini volts and it doesn't take much to cause a problem. My Isspro egt has acted funny before and after cleaning the connections, it worked fine.



Sam

 

[WestTN]

It is a milivolt signal. You will need a high quality high resolution meter to read it. And a thermocouple voltage to temperature chart to make sense of it.



I can tell you any time the engine is running in any normal weather there will be a reading of close to 300 degF and up.

 

[Pliska]

Which series of gauge is it? Does it have a separate amplifier box?



It sounds like you are not getting a decent connection between the thermocouple and the gauge. If you do have a decent volt meter (one that can measure millivolt range) you can check the thermocouple out with the engine running at idle. Here are the voltages you should see versus temperature:

Deg F millivolt

280 4. 783

290 5. 011

300 5. 238

310 5. 464

320 5. 689



Regards,

Michael Pliska

 

[WDixon27]

once or twice a year i gotta loosen and retighten the connections by the probe on my isspro and it gets going again, it is odd in the fact that they are not loose or corroded but playing with the connections works, if it happened more often id solder and heat shrink the probe to the harness but 2 minutes of work a couple times a year is not enough to make me give up the disconnectable probe ability

 

[DCreed]

Dixon- try some dielectric grease on the connectors the next time you have to service it.

Gamble- most likely a bad connection, DO NOT drive on PL10 with out a good pyro!! Your ADR should've come with a probe of its own, if you connected the Isspro gauge to the ADRs probe thats why it wont work.

Pliska- Thank you for the info!!

 

[MLee]

Find out what the OHM reading is from the MFG and use a Volt-ohm meter. I have a westec and it supposed to be 20-23 ohm resistance @ the connection. An other way would be to pull the thermocouple out and use a torch to see it registers higher on the gage.