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Pyrometer Temp.

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2001 3500 NV5600 hard shift after 75 nv5600

2006 Cranks but Won't Start

I don't think there is an absolute. Too many variables from truck to truck. I have my '01 to defuel at 1350. I had it set at 1400 for about a year but it just adds to my coolant temp issue so I turned it down 50*.
 
Depends on how long of duration. I may be wrong but I was under the impression that you could run a 5.9 common rail at 1250 sustained without damage. I personally won't run mine at that but have also seen 1300 for 60 seconds or less. Another thing is whether you have an analogue or digital gauge. Analogue take a bit longer to register. I have been running a SPA Tecnique digital since my second generation truck. Pulled it out of my 2001.5 before I sold it and put it in my 2007, 5.9
What are you seeing Gene with your truck?
 
Its rare I ever see over 1200, even with a EFILive tuned 6.7 with the DPF still intact. If your truck is running a stock tune and you stay within RAMs GCWR you shouldn't have to worry. Thats why they don't give the option. If you get away from the stock tune, then watch it like a hawk when towing heavy. With your G56, you already run it at a higher RPM, which adds a higher fuel air mixture keeping your EGT cooler. Trying to climb grades lugging the engine will produce extreme high EGT's, which lugging is not desired on the G56.
 
What is the absolute highest I want to see my pre turbo pyrometer reading?

This is a loaded question because it depends on many different variables. Like when are you experiencing high EGT's and for how long, what type/brand of gauge do you have, what power mods, what boost are you running, what are you towing...etc.

The general consensus for max "sustained" EGT's is always 1250* because of those above unknown variables and because aluminum starts to deform at 1200* F. But pistons have silicon and other materials which allows for much higher chamber temperatures before softening. And boost plays a huge role in EGT's too because boost is what blows out all the hot air during the exhaust stroke which keeps heat off the piston crown.

Lastly, when engine manufactures dyno run their engines they use million dollar equipment which can closely monitor every combustion spike temperature for each cylinder. They're not using a $100 pyrometer where you hopefully have the thermocouple mounted correctly in the correct location.

So point being is.....how much do you trust your pryometer to be perfectly accurate? Because if its 50*-100* off for any reason and you "think" you're running 1250* but actually well above that then that would be a bummer. Its amazing how many people look for the cheapest best looking gauges they can find without considering that these are tools for monitoring the engine. There's no point in having them if they cant be trusted.
 
If your truck is running a stock tune and you stay within RAMs GCWR you shouldn't have to worry. Thats why they don't give the option. If you get away from the stock tune, then watch it like a hawk when towing heavy.

Max GCWR don't really make much difference in EGT's v/s a half a load. If I tow my empty dump trailer up a 6 or 7% grade in 6th gear it will get hot. Same as fully loaded on the same hill in 5th.
 
In a stock form Ram 6.7 or 5.9, they are designed with the EGT in mind, and as long as you stay within GCWR, it’ll be covered under warranty. If your out of warranty the design won’t be any different. But once you change any thing from stock, keep an eye on it. Keep RPM,s high when climbing any grade to keep combustion chamber cool. I know a CTD will pull at low RPM’s, and with a manual trans, your tempted to not downshift.
 
Gene, Once I had Turbo Resource do my turbo with the 6.7 turbine and stock 5.9 compressor wheels, It is hard for me to hit high EGT's unless I am in high altitude. That's towing 10,000 and the truck is carrying 40 gallons extra fuel.
 
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