Question about Mag Hytec transmission Pan

[Kry226]

I just received my new regular capacity Mag Hytec transmission pan and I have a concern about the pre-drilled, but plugged 1/8 NPT port for the transmission temp gauge. I will not be running a temp gauge, at least for a little while. Reference the pictures below: The pictures show views of both inside and outside of the port. To me, it seems the plug is not screwed in very far, and this concerns me. I tried to turn it with the supplied allen wrench but it was very snug and I didn't want to possibly strip the port. It also appears to have some copper anti-sieze applied to the threads. Does anyone else's pan look like this? Should I be worried about losing the plug on the road, and consequently, transmission fluid? I thought I would try here first before trying to deal with someone in customer service at Mag Hytec.

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[msimmons]

The plug uses tapered pipe threads (NPT) and if it is snug with the enlsoed allen wrench, you need not worry.



Mike

 

[DLBurns]

I had to use that plug to drain my pan as the drain plug was on so tight that I could not get it off. I just re-installed the plug with a little anti sieze on the threads and its been good for about 7,000 miles.

Take the drain plug out and oil up the oring and put some anti sieze on the threads... save yourself some grief when you go to change your fluid.

 

[Kry226]

I had to use that plug to drain my pan as the drain plug was on so tight that I could not get it off. I just re-installed the plug with a little anti sieze on the threads and its been good for about 7,000 miles.

Take the drain plug out and oil up the oring and put some anti sieze on the threads... save yourself some grief when you go to change your fluid.

Did your plug look like mine does?



I already removed the drain plug and the o-ring did stick a little. The plug went in much easier than it came out too. Thanks for the help y'all.



Any other comments????

 

[Stamey]

The BIGGEST thing about this pan is do NOT overtighten the drain plug. It says 13 INCH lbs for a reason. This means just "snug" for those of you who do not have an in/lb torque wrench. My transmission guy overtightened mine. I know because he welded a bolt head onto his after he could not get his own loose. Last time I had the pan off, after I broke off the 3/16 allen wrench in there, I heated it with a torch (on the bench) and got it out, then I gently tightened back up snug (no torque wrench). The o-ring will keep it from spinning out so you do not need to tighten it much.



Chris

 

[Kry226]

The BIGGEST thing about this pan is do NOT overtighten the drain plug. It says 13 INCH lbs for a reason. This means just "snug" for those of you who do not have an in/lb torque wrench. My transmission guy overtightened mine. I know because he welded a bolt head onto his after he could not get his own loose. Last time I had the pan off, after I broke off the 3/16 allen wrench in there, I heated it with a torch (on the bench) and got it out, then I gently tightened back up snug (no torque wrench). The o-ring will keep it from spinning out so you do not need to tighten it much.



Chris

I'll definitely keep that in mind.

 

[DLBurns]

Did your plug look like mine does?



Yep..... looks just like that!

And the problem you'll have is that the drain plug comes installed in the pan. If you don't take it out and oil the oring and anti sieze the threads you will have problems like Stamey mentions. I also broke a 3/16 allen and corkscrewed another trying to get it out. I heated mine on the bench and still could not get it out! Called Mag Hy-Tek and they said to drill the plug and then use a drift punch and hammer to unscrew it

Of course you have to send them 15 bucks for a new plug as you will destroy this one

 

[IC Smoke]

I just picked mine up from Geno's last week and have anti-sieze/wd40 the plug/O-ring. What causes the plug to stick so bad? constant heat/cool cycle?



Ian

 

[Stamey]

The only reason I know of that they "stick" is due to overtightening. Once you break mine loose, and back it off the o-ring, it spins loosely in the threads. I think everyone must realize, like I didn't at first, that the o-ring on the will keep the plug from turning once it is squeezed between the pan and the plug, so it doesn't need to be tightened much. I have only had experience with a couple of these pans though.



Chris

 

[Kry226]

Did you guys use the supplied allen bolts or the OE bolts? I am really leaning towards the OE, as the allen bolts seem like they would be a PITA.

 

[Red360]

Sender Unit

FWIW,

You really should monitor your transmission temp using the output from your torque convertor. You can use the port on the pan, but your monitoring the temp of the fluid AFTER it has been cooled. So if you have a really good cooling system, you may not notice a problem with overheating until it is too late.

 

[Stamey]

Did you guys use the supplied allen bolts or the OE bolts? I am really leaning towards the OE, as the allen bolts seem like they would be a PITA.

I think you get the allen head bolts because there isn't clearance for any other type of bolt in some places. It's pretty tight for some of those holes. You do want to make sure you have the flat washer on the bolts so that it doesn't cut into the aluminum though.



Chris

 

[Stamey]

FWIW,

You really should monitor your transmission temp using the output from your torque convertor. You can use the port on the pan, but your monitoring the temp of the fluid AFTER it has been cooled. So if you have a really good cooling system, you may not notice a problem with overheating until it is too late.

Where have you heard this? I have my sending unit in the hot line and when I have been talking to transmission shops about a temperature problem I had a while back they freaked out when I told them my numbers, until they heard the sending unit was in the hot line. They said I should be measuring in the pan. I would think that knowing what's coming through that hot line would be best, but what's too much? One transmission guy told me I might see over 275 in the hot line at times, but that did not really reflect the temperature in the area of the transmission where damage could occur (drums and clutches), so it wasn't a good measurement.



Chris

 

[Red360]

Chris,

It makes sense to monitor the hot side. If the hot side is within limits, i. e. not over 250 degrees then you know the fluid in the pan is quite abit lower. DTT also recommends this location. I bought a replacement line so the sender could be mounted in the "hot" line.

 

[Stamey]

That's what I thought too. I figured it makes sense to know the absolute hottest your transmission is getting. I suppose, just guessing here, that a transmission guy KNOWS the hot line gets very hot, and this is expected behavior, so it doesn't really say much if he doesn't know the temperature where the damage can occur.

I have the same line myself, after the original I tapped stopped wanting to seal to the heat exchanger.



Thanks,

Chris

 

[Supermod56]

To answer your question, just get a 1/8" pipe tap and some cutting oil and tap the hole a little further, maybe 2-3 turns on the tap, go about a 1/2 turn then reverse the tap, to "cut the chip". Then put Anti-Seize on it and tighten it up, but not too hard.

Tom