Competition Question for you ARP Stud experienced folks

[AK RAM]

I'm finally getting around to putting in ARP studs and I'm confused about the wording on the little flyer that they stick in the box. It says……



"Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 96ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT coated studs or torque to 122ft lbs if using 30wt motor oil lubricant. "



Now, I was expecting to use the ARP Moly Lube and torque these suckers to 120ft lbs as everyone on the forum in the past has instructed. Moly lube or not, leaving them at 96ft lbs would be almost like stock right?…what's the point in that. Now I'm kind of worried about snapping one of these suckers off in the block. If I use the ARP lubricant and torque to 120ft lbs, sounds like it will be beyond the studs' capability to remain intact.



Any ideas?

 

[TimG]

"Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 96ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT coated studs or torque to 122ft lbs if using 30wt motor oil lubricant. "



Any ideas?[/QUOTE]



The ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT allows the stud to screw into the threads easier than the 30wt motor oil lubricant, therefore only 96 ft lbs of torque is required to achieve the proper amount of stretch on the stud.

 

[lmills]

Crank em down.

 

[Jetpilot]

The literature is not correct..... Some of the older boxes came with bad info, maybe you got one of them. Here is what I do for an O-ringed head:



1) Torque to 96 (starting @ 20 and going up by 20)



2) Start engine and let warm up to operating temp and then turn off. Let engine cool for 3-4 hours with the hood closed and the retorque to 110.



3) Drive it around for a few day to get some heat cycles on them and then I retorque to 125.



4) I then drive it for a month or so and to another retorque to 125.



The ARP's yield at 122 so I go just slightly above (125) to allow for the twisting friction. Be sure and use lots of moly lube for each retorque. This has worked very well for me... ...



Doug

 

[CumminsAholic]

So when you retorque you take one nut off at a time and relube the stud, put it back on, torque and off to the next one? I was told to just torque them without loosening... maybe it's a good thing I'm not that far yet.

Corey

 

[AK RAM]

Good info guys…thanks.

 

[Jeff_K]

AK... . wait till wednesday evening so I can help and learn how to do mine

 

[AK RAM]

Too many goodies sitting on the bench... I can't wait. Oo. I may have to though. They shorted me the ARP assembly lube and I don't have a lot of confidence that I will be able to find any in little o'l Anchorage. What time do you get in on Wednesday?…. I'm off all week.

 

[jwilliams3]

Doug,

Do you apply new moly lube to the parts during every step of re-torque?

 

[Jetpilot]

When doing a retorque, break the nut loose and apply moly lube to the stud, washer, and bolt. You want lube on everything this reduces twisting friction and provides for the best clamping force.



Doug

 

[Jeff_K]

Too many goodies sitting on the bench... I can't wait. Oo. I may have to though. They shorted me the ARP assembly lube and I don't have a lot of confidence that I will be able to find any in little o'l Anchorage. What time do you get in on Wednesday?…. I'm off all week.

I get in at 7pm on wednesday. If you haven't done it by then I can grab a rental and whip over and help ya (drink your beer ). I will have 6+ hours to kill! Let me know as your week progresses.



Jeff

 

[AK RAM]

I get in at 7pm on wednesday. If you haven't done it by then I can grab a rental and whip over and help ya (drink your beer ). I will have 6+ hours to kill! Let me know as your week progresses.



Jeff

I MIGHT be able to hold off on the re-torque until then, but I don't think I'll be able to wait that long on the install. Lots to do this week and I need to get-r-done. Depends on the answers I get on my next question though... ... ... ...





Question number 2. They shorted me the ARP Moly Assembly Lube. I was hoping to start on this shortly and the only assembly lube I can find in town that contains moly is "Engine Assembly Lube with Moly and Graphite". It has "CRC" and "Sta-Lube" on the package for a manufacturer. NAPA has it. Better than standard oil no doubt but little worried about the graphite. Would this be OK to use?



.

 

[TStinson]

I haven't seen this mentioned yet, so here goes - It would be smart to get the correct size bottoming tap and chase each hole to clean up the threads and get out anything that may remain. My favorite way of cleaning out the headbolt/stud holes after chasing the threads is by flushing them with lacquer thinner and a turkey baster followed by thoroughly swabbing out with q-tips until no oil/grease is evident. Follow with careful use of compressed air if you feel the urge. Lube each bolt and hand-thread into the block until it bottoms, then back it out one full turn. This helps to ensure you don't inadvertantly bottom out a stud while threading on the nuts and subsequent torquing. The reasoning here is that studs are not designed to be subjected to "twisting" force, which is what typically causes one to fail and snap off. Studs are designed to function only in tension with NO twisting force, whereas bolts are designed to be subjected to the twisting force imposed on them when being torqued. When you torque the nuts with the studs, you are stretching the studs, which creates the clamping pressure on the headgasket.

IF one snaps - HOPEFULLY you wil have the good fortune I had. Since the studs were backed out one turn during installation, we were able to get a pencil-magnet onto the remaining piece in the block and back it out without too much trouble. Since the one that broke was located at the rear of the block, if we had been unable to extract the piece like we did, about the only choice available would have been to pull the engine!!!





As for question #2 - maybe try contacting one of the ARP vendors?

 

[Jeff_K]

I MIGHT be able to hold off on the re-torque until then, but I don't think I'll be able to wait that long on the install. Lots to do this week and I need to get-r-done. Depends on the answers I get on my next question though... ... ... ...

If it works out, great. If not, no worries

Keep me updated on your progress!

 

[jwilliams3]

Not to get off topic or anything...



Who has had a stud snap? What brand and conditions were they under?

 

[Turbo Thom]

ARP... ... ..... 3 broken and one streched, but stopped torque procedure. Pulled and trough that one away.

 

[Huff N Puff]

Some of the holes need the threads tapped deeper cause the studs protrude too high when they bottom,and in some cases the valve cover won,t fit.