Question on buying a 1st gen...

[steved]

I have a line on what appears to be a 93 W250 in excellent condition, with no apparent rot. The truck is an auto, and has a few miles shy of 300k on the clock. Finding a clean 1st gen in this area is rare... mainly due to body rot.



Asking price is just shy of $6k.



What, if anything, should I be concerned about on a truck with this mileage?? I know the trouble spots with rot in regards to a 1st gen truck (I've owned several), but I know next to nothing with regards to problem areas with the mechanics of the engine/transmission as all mine were gassers. And don't get me wrong, I know the Cummins pretty good, but all my experience is late 2nd and 3rd gens, never really played with an all mechanical Cummins before, nor do I know their shortcomings.



What should I look for, or should I keep looking??

 

[Grizzly]

With the age and that many miles you're sure to have major problems. Get a good shop manual for it.

 

[steved]

What would THOSE problems be???



I'm pretty much set on buying a 1st gen truck, this one is just there right now. I am trying to find out what the major headaches are on these truck... so I know what to expect.

 

[cerberusiam]

IP if it has been sitting long as the ULSD causes issues when they sit, also, whether or no the pump has been updated with new seals to handle ULSD. Wear on the throttle shaft and leaks there will show up for no reason. Turn the pump up and it starts on the other seals.



Injectors needing pop tested and balanced, rear main seal leaking if it hasn't been replaced. Vacuum system and lines getting rotten. LP and fuel lines as they want to leak and get rotton also.



Steering loose due to the rag joint and\or wear on the steering sector. You will need to assess the tie rods, ball joints, etc, to know where they are at with wear. Ujoints also.



The autos weren't bad but at 300k if it hasn't been touched its a candidate for some major work and updates.



Cowl cracks, rust in the roof and headliner are favorites.





Like anything else that is 18 years old time has its way with it. Now way to get around it.

 

[steved]

The trans I fully expected... how much does an IP cost? Injectors aren't all that bad for a mechanical motor... nothing compared to this 3rd gen.



I'd probably just replace things as preventative maintenance.



All in all, short issues with the body and frame, it doesn't sound all that bad? Not as many issues as with the later models?

 

[cerberusiam]

IP rebuild, injector rebuild plus 370 marine tips cost me $1300 last Feb. Transmission will depend on what upgrades you do but around $3000-$3500 will but a nice unit.



The rest is just checking and maintenance.



Frame, body, t-case, diffs are solid if they were serviced. The engine was only 160 HP so it couldn't really hurt itself or the rest of the drive train.



If there is not much rust on it you could be lucky and the rain gutter issues may not be bad. Cowl cracks may not be there if it was mainly road miles.

 

[AClayton]

KDP should at least be ckd. The steering shaft is problematic and Borgeson still sells the upgraded shaft. My neighbor has an 89' with over 500K and the body has rotten away but that old Cummins with a stack sounds so good comin up my road. My BIL has a 91' in better shape and Lloyd did a lot of work to it and dynoed it at 350rwhp... ... and it is still very reliable. He did need to upgrade the auto shortly before the work though. The bodywork was already mentioned previously and both of the trucks I mentioned seem to have it!!

 

[steved]

Well, that one fell through... sold last week (nice that they pull adds).



Found another one (its actually still for sale... )... a 1989 (that should be year one?) and 450k. It has a blown radiator, which concerns me that it might have been ran hot (although owner says no). It looks good, but he said its been recently painted. So I'd be curious as to actual body condition... but the price is better, probably get it for around $3k. He claims its not mod'd.



I figure it has 3. 07s with the auto 3 spd trans...

 

[KOG]

Forget the 89 for $3K. In that condition it might be worth a thousand for parts. You really want at least a 91. 5 to get the four speed transmission. And a later model with lockup if you want to do much more power.

 

[steved]

Keep in mind, this purchase of a 1st gen will be more for a toy and my general transportation, but not my only "car"... basically, the 1st gen would be for me to bomb around in and drive to work, nothing more.

If its a work-in-progress, it beats a work-not-happening as in my M37 that has been sitting since 03 without as much as being touched by a wrench. For example, replacing a pump on a driven truck is easier than reconditioning an entire vehicle.

As long as I can get a solid body and frame, I can probably handle most of the mechanical issues (I rebuilt the entire drivetrain on a 74 W200 I had several years ago)... my biggest concern would be parts for the "Dodge-only" things, but even those could be replaced.

 

[PToombs]

Check for cracks in the frame behind the steering box, common problem on a 4x4. The little box on the steering column just above the gearbox wears out, makes it really loose. This is the worst spot the Borgeson fixes.

Just check and see if the tamper caps are still on the IP. 1 on the top of the AFC housing, and the fuel screw, above the injector head and towards the block side of the pump.

If you do the trans, use an upgraded converter.

When you do the KDP, pull and loctite the case bolts. There are 2 behind the cam, one you can only tighten, won't come out with out cam removal.