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Questions about tst #11 plate

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EGT thermocouple install question

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I just installed a tst #11 plate and afc spring change. What should I exspect for boost, I am getting 25-30 when pulling my trailer over a pass, but can only run 60mph upgrade because the egt temps run around 1200 if I try to go any faster they go into the red. Also everyone keeps talking about smoke and I blow hardly any at any speed range. I am very happy over the stock setup which allowed my to pull pass at 45 with my 12,000# trailer. Any coments would be appreciated. I have owned 3 diferent cummins powered trucks since 1990, but this is my first power upgrade. :D
 
#11 plate

First off, Welcome to the TDR



You might want to consider a 16cm exhaust housing, you will experience slightly more turbo lag if you have a 5 speed trans. If you got an auto trans the lag will be even more evident. This housing will lower your temps 100-150 deg.



Another option is the Psycotty air induction system or Bullydog hood with scoops. These are also good for about 100-150 deg reduction in egt.



Piers has a new turbo [modified hx-35] that is said to lower egt temps and decrease the amount of lag as well :D



If you still have your cat, gut it or lose it, or just go for the 4" exhaust system. The 4" exhaust system is good for about 100 deg egt reduction.

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I agree with R. ebel, But there should be smoke and your boost seems alittle low depending on your altitude. With the cat and no muffler and the #11 in the stock position I was getting 34 pound of boost. It didn't smoke as bad with the cat in place. Just all of the sudden my EGTs where running 100 deg higher than they once where and the cat was the cause of the problem.
 
My first question is to everyone: Can the low boost be causing the EGT problem. Meaning if the boot was up at 30-35 pounds instead on 25-30 would he get lower EGT's. ( I know having too much boost is not good either ). Just wondering it this is too much fuel and not enough air for this particular setup.



( as i sat here typing the rest of this, it occured to me that this would make it smoke like crazy, huh? And he says no smoke at all. Hmmmm... . )



Next -- I did not notice what transmission Elk has. If its a manual then seems like a #11 should provide more that 25-30# boost and power. For an automatic thats only 210/550 and is probably only gonna get 30# max. This may be all you get from a 180 pump with a #11 plate, in the stock position.



You need to get to the bottom of this.



And finally another plug for Piers turbo. From what I see with that, I would: ( and an gonna at the end of this month )



1. Nuke the cat and get a straight through muffler. Dont go for the expensive systems. Search in here and get the inexpensive walker and keep the rest stock.



2. Save the money from those housings and air systems and downpipes, etc.



3. Use the money you saved and get a PDR turbo. For the same money as a downpipe, housing, and air system you can get a turbo. Will lower your EGT's, plus other added bonuses.



I am going this route. In about 2-3 weeks. I originally had a different shopping list. But have updated it with the intro the the PDR turbo.
 
Add my sig for Elk.



I have a tst plate, stock position, catack exhaust and K&N filter. Cat is still hanging around. So is the stock housing and air box, etc.



Boost runs 30# WOT, with no load just romping on the freeway. EGT's get to maybe 1000-1100 while doing this. Smoke only occurs during heavy throttle, low boost. No smoke easy throttle and no smoke about about 15-18# boost.



Have not tried towing with trailer since I got this. First time will be this next week 7-14th. Then I will get an app with Piers. Got another trip scheduled in Aug. I can post the difference them.
 
Thanks so far for the replies. I have updated my profile to include it is a 5 speed truck, and the turbo silencer is removed. Please keep the replies comming, but it looks like the cat must go. I did notice in Genos garage there is a muffler elimination pipe for $69. 00 will this also eliminate the cat? Thanks in advance this site is awsome plus a great filler while waiting each quater for the magazine.
 
The kit from Geno's will not eliminate the CAT. You need a Mopar test pipe. I don't know the part number off hand, but I'm sure someone will chime it with it. The test pipe cost around $55, and shouldn't be to bad to install as long as you have a torch to heat up the old parts for removal.



-Ryan
 
I can go up to the Eisenhower tunnel (about 7% and tops over 10K feet)from Dillon in 4th(3. 54 diff)with my 7500lb 5th wh with 26lbs boost, 1250egt and 66mph. You might be close to the same output, considering your weight. I like the 14 housing for all-round performance(good power and very little lag) at high altitude. I slid my afc housing about half way back and turned the star wheel about two turns and have great smoke control and still have good low end response - no smoke unless I stab the throttle! Craig
 
I am going to chime in here as well, in my sig you can see I have the #11, K&N, and the Walker muffler that Slybones mentioned. I get plenty of smoke if I want it, all controlled by the right foot of course, but totally managable under normal accelleration.

I top out at about 32lbs of boost at wot in 4th or 5th gear, and I can get the egt's to about 1300* unloaded if I really get on it up a pass or long grade. Before the muffler exchange (original parts) I was on average 100-150* hotter than I am now, and the sound is very acceptable.

I know alot of guys here opt to just get rid of the muffler entirely, but I personally don't like the sound of my truck straight-piped, and the walker is only $59. 99 at summit racing (just as cheap as geno's elimination pipe). I would absolutely recommend getting that muffler, it is completely straight through, just perforated with fiberglass to keep the sound down and helped the egts alot. An open K&N will help that too (although not as much as the psychotty), and it will also give you that awsome turbo sound.



If you are not getting much/any smoke with the #11, then you can change that fairly easily, just by moving the housing forward or giving the star wheel a few clicks. However, if you don't really want much smoke, and you feel like you have adequate power as it is, then I wouldn't change a thing. Many people work with the pump for a while simply trying to eliminate smoke, so if you don't feel like you need any more power, then leave it be. But if you are still hungry for more (as most of us are I believe), then just follow some of the directions you have been given, and be happy. Just remember, there is no cure for bombaholism, and there is definitely no end to it either!:D:D
 
TST 11 w/no smoke

Hello Elk,



As you can see below I have a 96 with the TST 230/605 plate. My truck would never smoke. I had the AFC star wheel turned all the way toward the engine (no tension) and I even removed the cap off the Pre boost AFC screw (back of AFC housing) and turned it in about 3 turns. still..... no smoke. After talking with Piers about my motor stalling with A/C on at idle he told me to check idle speed, and my fuel return valve ( fuel pressure). Well I did both..... increased idle speed and replaced return valve. Guess what... now when I get on it hard there is smoke. I actually had to turn the AFC star wheel back in about halfway (away from engine). And the the motor doesn't stall at stop signs any more either. The truck makes 32 lbs boost and the max temp is about 1150 F. Hope this helps... . Don
 
Low boost may equal higher EGT in some cases

Was going thru a low power problem with my truck, empty only noticable factor was lower boost-20. Recently timed to 14. 5, new lift pump & return valve. Checked low fuel side and was 18. Adjusted spring length on return valve and restored pressure to 23 @ idle. Plugged wastegate line and removed actuator (wastegate stayed open full time) max boost was 15 & had Highest EGTs I have seen with stock config & not towing (850+). Checked wastegate actuator and bellows was blown out. Replaced and EGTs dropped over 200 degrees...
 
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