Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Questions on 1997 CTD truck

[JHenry]

I am looking at a '97 Dodge 2500 Cummins with 160000 miles. It has an automatic transmission, Pac Brake, Magnum Force air filter, straight-piped, otherwise pretty basic, simple truck. I wondered if there are any typical issues that I should be careful about in considering this truck. Is this before the "53" block problems? Is it after the "Killer Dowel Pin"? Or are these or any other problems likely to exist in this year? What should I consider doing to the auto transmission to beef it up for snow plowing? Thanks in advance.

 

[JPittinger]

Still have to fix the KDP.
I would rebuild the auto with Goerend parts; tell him what you want and he'll tell you what you need. Converter at least, then valve body, then lots of internal parts in order of importance.

My daily driver '97 has 311k and has seen a long hard life but still is rarely passed on the highway. I'd jump in and drive just about anywhere. 160k should be pretty safe if you check it out before you buy it. Good luck.

 

[JHenry]

Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. So the "53" block is not a concern in this year?

 

[Missouri Mule]

No the 53 block should not be a concern in 97. 98 12 valves mite have 53 blocks but the 98. 5 24 valves do have 53 blocks.

Kdp is an issue from 89 to somewhere in 99.

Lots of aftermarket transmission places DTT, Goerend, ATS,, Suncoast... Call them or e-mail them and see what they can do. (Look in TDR magazine for trans shops. )

 

[McLaughlin]

As mentioned before the transmission and KDP are the biggest issues. They sometimes have some other problems (cruise control, headlight brightness, light switch) but usually they are fairly minor. The 97s and 98 12vs are considered one of the better year trucks by a fair number of people.

 

[JRS]

I have a '97 and it's been bullet-proof. Two more things to consider:

1) Rear axle seals, especially on drivers side

2) Star wheel adjusters on rear drum brakes. For some reason they freeze up and then the rear brakes quit adjusting. I have tried never-sieze and brake grease, neither worked well. Just purchase some new ones every 100k miles or so.

 

[Flinty]

In addition to jrs's list: The rubber fuel lines have probably been replaced by now, however, if they weren't replaced with good quality marine lines they'll be junk in 40k. If they haven't, then do it soon. Take the fuel heater off and throw it away. Adjust the valves. You will part with some frogskins over the steering linkage. FYI- the autos came with the smaller rearend usually. Cruise control buttons will make you pull your hair out. All that being said you'd have to offer me a helluva lot of money to get me to part with mine! I love it. Also, if the security screw on the afc is not there, start asking questions.