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hello everybody so im deleting my fusible links im having somebody do it as I don't have the time or knowledge so my question is the two fusible links coming off the battery that have the solenoids those are for the grid heaters and the guy want to cut out the links and run them to the fuse block with a 120amp fuse would that be OK ive attache the few picks that he has sent me does everything look ok or no thank you in advance the last pick is the new charging cable as well
Without knowing how much current is normally drawn through the fusible links I would not arbitrarily toss a BIG fuse in place of the fusible link. You may cause unexpected issues, blown fuses, or worse, a fire.
Review this article to gain some insight. A fusible link has certain characteristics built in to protect high current draw circuits. A fuse may blow out sooner than expected on a spike high current draw, where a fusible link may heat up for that spike yet maintain continuity. It is designed to be the first item to "blow" and not cause a fire due to its high heat insulation material. Again, this is addressed in the article. https://www.lifewire.com/car-fuses-and-links-explained-4018163
Good luck in the modifications. Understand the circuits and proceed with the utmost caution when modifying them.
In a nutshell, the electrical/electronic engineers worked real hard to pack all that "magic smoke" into the wiring and circuits. If something goes wrong, all that magic smoke will escape and the circuits no longer work. If too much magic smoke leaks out too fast you may experience a serious fire. Be safe!
I have seen some replacement fusible links 'successfully" soldered into the harness, but most, when soldered cause a degraded union of the wires due to the melting point of solder being well above the melting point of the fusible link wire. You will notice many fusible links having pre-installed crimp connectors to prevent unintentional melting and degradation of the fusible link wire. If you have soldered the links to the wires you can check the resistance across the link (measure from the wire harness wires to include measuring through the solder joints). There should be zero resistance. You may also measure the voltage to ground at both ends. It should read identical with little (very, very little) or ideally no voltage drop from applied voltage. Alternately, you can measure the voltage across the fusible link (at the wiring harness wires across the solder joints). You should read zero voltage if there is no resistance in the repairs. I have always used crimp connectors with proper environment protective tape or insulators.
@brucejohnson I'm still putting everything else on a fuse though just going back to the way the grids were wired from The factory after we already cut them I'm slowly wanting to upgrade the truck hope it was a good decision as there was no electrical issues except for the headlight switch