Here I am

R-134A charge

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Adding second filter to OEM frame rail fuel filter kiy

Lets chat about vacuum pumps.... and exhaust brake stuff

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've searched the forums without getting a definitive answer. The pass. side of my dual zone Ac is warmer than the driver side, by quite a lot. My grandson used his company machine to vacuum and recharge the system. It was 1/2 lb. low on R-134-a and he recharged it according to the capacity shown on the sticker which was 1 lb..

Pressures indicated were somewhat low on both low and high sides and the pass. side was still warm. Some posts indicate capacity of 26 or so ounces and others have noted that the factory capacity is understated. Anyone out there have the real scoop? Should I try to add more refrigerant?
 
I went through the same thing for years with my 06. I had to have it refilled every summer so I'm assuming there was a leak somewhere even though the dye never showed up. Recharging it did fix the issue temporarily.

A few months ago the compressor died and I replaced nearly everything, compressor, ac lines, condenser and so far no issues.

And yes, it's normal for the passenger side to be considerably warmer than the drivers when the charge is low...just ask my wife.
 
Thanks all. From all I've read, I've suspected that the decal was incorrect. It clearly shows both gas and diesel versions at 1# (14 oz.) I now assume that to mean 1# + 14 oz. or 30 oz. total. Since that amount (1.875#) is just what Bob4X4 said was the right amount, I'm now confident we didn't add enough.
 
Even though you have solved your dilima, lower than normal low side with a lower than normal high side indicates low charge.
 
Recharged with total of near 2# and cooling has returned to normal, which is great, and pressure also is good now. Now the not so good news. The vacuum removed just .6# so .4# has leaked out in about 3 weeks. No leak was found in a quick exam so a more thorough search is needed. It was 105* or so in his open truck bay at the time and he had crawled out from under a big rig to charge my truck.
 
Had a slow leak on my daughter's Ford Ranger. Added freon and dye and for four months we couldn't find it. Ended up adding more freon at six months. We checked and checked but couldn't find any trace of the leak or dye markings until I was standing back from the engine compartment and noticed the hood, fenders, engine and basically everything in there was glowing.
Finally figured out it was the front seal and replaced the compressor but we never did see a definitive dye marking at the seal or clutch area.

AC leaks are so much fun!
 
I am currently dealing with a similar issue of warmer air on the passenger side, I haven't checked the fluid pressure, but I found that if you put the AC on Re-circulation mode it helps cool down the passenger side.
 
A trick I used on my 94 2500 gasser, was to pressurize the system with R22, so my HVAC leak detector (best in the business) could detect as little as 1/2 oz. of refrigerant per year. I then disabled the compressor and ran the blower on low speed and picked up the leak from the evaporator from the airflow. When I removed the evap it was evident that it was leaking from freezing up. My low pressure safety had failed in the closed position allowing ice to build up and destroying my evap.
 
I'm not sure what the factory specifications indicate, but i had the same thing happen last week, and the shop informed me that it was 8/10's of a pound low. This service corrected the condition.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top