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Competition Race Help

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Competition Torque

Taking my truck to the race track for the first time and I need a little help from you experenced drivers. I have a 2x4 and I want to know how to start off with out smoking the tires, will I get a lot better traction then I do on the street? Should I add some weight in the bed for more traction ? What boost to take off at anything above 5lbs. on the street will smoke the tires all the way through 2nd gear. Look a my sig. and tell me what time you think I might run?? Any help would be appreciated.

:confused:
 
Racing in February!

Okay, I'm jealous! But I can't survive in the heat you all endure in the summer.

It's hard to give advice on this because every track is different and so are the tires and how everything is prepared. You don't want to have tire slippage at all, you can't be consistent that way.

I just started going to every test and tune I could until I got the hang of it. Then I started working on reducing times. Started the season with a 15. 94 and ended with a 13. 8 (in competition) by adjusting for slippage (4wd).

Steve races in 2wd, he may have a better solution for you, but like I said, it's hard to tell you when the conditions are so different.
 
How safe is it to drag race in 4x4 mode? Can the transfer case handle it, or do you try to shift back into two wheel drive after the launch?
 
Eric, most likely you'll have less traction on the street - but every once in a blue moon you'll get a very well prepared track that's grippier. Track conditions can vary by HUGE amounts on a day to day basis and from track to track. First thing you'll want to do is lower your rear tire pressures down to 25 psi - that will give you more contact patch and hence more grip. I wouldn't add weight in the bed but I would fill the tank completely - if you have a 24v that will help keep the fuel cool because the injection pump is cooled and lubricated by the fuel - more fuel means more cooling.



Wait at least 15 minutes between runs - 30 minutes is better and open your hood between runs to let the engine cool. I did back to back runs while testing one time (3 runs within 5 minutes) and I lost . 25 seconds on the second run, a full second on the 3rd run.



It sounds like this is your first time going to the dragstrip - do you know about the staging lights, etc? If not let me know and I'll help you out there. If this is your first time I would recommend that you not worry about getting a good reaction time at first. Let the light go green (don't worrry about leaving right on the green) and concentrate on launching consistently. Once that light goes green you could sit there for 10 seconds and still get a true 1/4 mile time - the clock on the ET doesn't start running until you've left the line. Definately go by your boost for where you're going to launch at - try different boost #'s until you get one that will hook up. If you can pull around the bleach box and keep your tires dry, if you have to pull through bleech box try to spin the tires after you get out of the box to shed the water from the tires. Oh yeah - DO NOT run your air conditioner!!! You'll get water on the track at the line and you're fellow racers will not appreciate it! Once you get your launch technique down then you can start working on your reaction time - you'll want to leave the line on one of the yellow lights, if you wait to see the green you'll never get a good reaction time - you've got to pick which light you and your truck need to leave on. Good luck and have a blast!!
 
Test-n-Tune/Bracket Racing 101

Eric,While all the rest of the gang has commented on their technique for racing as a beginner,no one has made the best comment yet for you,,Take a trip to a local track first to see whats involved with your first trip and purchase a rule book,,Read thru the section on safety items needed for your class(times)you will be running,,Next take you truck to tech man and have it looked over,most guys after getting all the racers teched will gladly help explain it to you,what to do and not to do,,Buy a acceptable helmet(SFI approved,remember its your head How much is it worth??) and jacket(ounce of protection now is always better),small things now may prevent larger ones later,,Its always good to let the staging area man know your a first timer,he'll help you along as far as where you need to be and when(most tracks will call numerous times for classes to lanes),,Test and tune days are a little pricey at times but worth the money,it will only be you and the tree most times,friday nite street nites are a good experience also as most are all beginners like you are now,,NEVER ever roll a street tire thru the water box,ALWAYS drive around it(if the track your at can not accomodate this,have them sweep the excess out of the pit to keep the water out of the tread pattern),,Street tires will alway retain water inside the tread even after heating them and thus allow the tire to spin when leaving,,Go around the water and back to the edge of the wet to heat the skins,spinning them to the line,pre-stage,clean her out a little,stage and leave on a bulb that will allow your combo to cut constinent lights,,Tire pressures,how much load on the convertor(or how high you can leave with a stick)and boost levels will be decided as you get a routine for what works for your truck and you,,As for your question on weight,there is only one acceptable answer here,yes weight can be added,but only up to the sanctioning bodies limit and it has to be inside a approved weight box and mounted the way they specify in the rule book,,All your major questions will be answered there,,Two quickies I always see newbies do and it will hurt your package,1st-Never after heating the tires do the "dreaded dry hop"all it does is take the hook you had and leave it behind in the area you do not need it,remember your heating the tires to make her hook the dry hop removes heat and their effectiveness to bond to the starting line,2nd-Never argue with the tech offical,he's got the best interest of you and the track in mind,Safety 1st. . Speed 2nd too many kids(adult also) try to skirt the rules and end up paying later in some way. . Most will allow you a week or two(if its a minor infraction) to correct the problem,HOWEVER,if its a major safety issue you'll be a watching and alive to race again,,Quick story and I'm done,I seen a driver recently with a 23T Bantam 8. 90 Super Comp car at a race near the end of the season,,Tech man bagged him with rubber valve stems in front tires(above a certain speed they need to be bolt in ones) and told him only way he'd race is by changing them,Well he left in a huff,,Late in year at a S/SS event I went to,different sanctioning body,he was there(bracket racing) and pitted next to us same wheels,still rubber stems up front,,We were in the lanes when he left for last time run(my buddy was sitting in the water box waiting for me to set him up)as I turned around I heard a boom and seen the bantam a rollin over too many time to account,,Driver was shakin but not hurt,wreck was videoed by a bystander and was evident what happened,,Car left hard,carried front wheels,set them down hard and BOOM,blew the left front one out and over she went,,Upon arrival back after our last round of time runs,my look at the car(with the tech man present,he was chatting with the driver)seen NO valve stem in the left front wheel,wheel was flattened on one side(opposite the stem area)and it was easy to see what happened,,My point here is this,get the book,read it and seeks some answers to questions you have,there are those of us who will help you have a safe race and keep your equipment compliant,,Know I'm a little windy here so end it this way,racing and bombing your truck are simular,kinda like a double edged knife,the more power you have and the faster you go the more you want,BUT,the other side of the knife is the more it costs you in safety equipment,more power,more speed many more updates to keep you safe,,Speed kills,even in a semi-controlled environment such as drag racing and safety is a measure you need to address first,,Just a few ramblings,hope this helps,any questions drop me a note... ..... Andy
 
Wow thats a long post... I agree with everything except the jacket, his truck will only run in high 14's to low 15's. As you should know his trap spee will only be around 90 mph, He!! i go aster than thatgetting onto the highway...
 
Jonathon,,I will agree with the jacket not being needed as per rules,but,as I tried to say an ounce of protection now is way better off in the long run,,Preparation and planning for racing starts at the shop early in the week,from making sure your saftey equipment is up to snuff to making sure even the lugs are properly torqued,,The minimal amount($50-$75) for a jacket spent now is still a thing I try to drive home with all the newbies I meet or have the chance to tech,,See way I see it 90 mph trap speeds still will cause a problem and even warrant the need for a jacket,,MMM,Lets see now,90mph and a bottom end engine problem or turbo huff that allows oil to escape to hot exhaust and we now have skidding and or fire,Jacket you say not needed??,,I'll agree with the your choice by the rules,again as with the helmet deal,its your body and is it not worth the minimal amount for a little safety cushion??,,Having been on the end of stupid stuff happening while drag racing years ago(i. e. -a transmission explosion in a low hp stocker at slower speeds than my superstocker)it awakened my saftey sense,,See in that class no pants were needed(as in running my car bracket racing,never can understand that one myself,,9. 99 and quicker cars bracket racing need full suits,jacket and pants where while class racing all I need is the jacket)and upon the transmission breakage and subsquent explosion in the traps sent hot fluid into drivers area(thru a whole punched by the exiting convertor parts)minor burns were substained,,Had I been wearing my full suit like I do when I would bracket race injuries would have been less and less painfull for sure,,Maybe I'm a little overbearing on safety stuff,but it WILL pay off in the long run and its easier to teach saftey early than try to drill it in later when they get into the "I know" phase,,Just my . 02 worth... ... Andy
 
After seeing a truck burn at a sled pull, at much slower speeds, LOL, maybe that jacket is not a bad idea.



I need to get a fire ex. too.
 
lotsa factors!

AIR QUALITY,TRACK CONDITION,GUY IN FRONT OF YOU(MAY HAVE A LEAK),STAGING SPOT("JUST" TURN ON THE SECOND STAGE LIGHT AND STOP ASAP),FRONT TIRE DIAMETER(ROLL OUT),WIND ,AND THE LIST GOES ON AND ON AND ON! jUST PRACTICE AND HVE FUN DOIN IT!:p
 
Thanks all for the great advice, I didnt get a chance to run friday but if things go right I might get a chance to run Wednesday or Friday. Never thought of setting a the light once it turns green and waiting until I am ready to leave. Thats a good idea to get a true 1/4 time if you are not worried about wining the race. It take a little of the pressure off about cutting a good light. Man I cant wait to get out there and run all those "little rice bunners". Oo.
 
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