radiator advise

[Tractorat]

Well, I noticed last summer while pulling my 4K lb TT that my truck was running just a little hotter than it had going over the mountains. (air cond doesnt work very well either). When I tried to go up a 10% grade in Wyoming (might have been 6%, but Im pretty sure it was 10%) it got real hot. Needle was still in the safe zone, but right on the line. So, I turned around, went back down the mountain and just went around.



Ive heard that it can really get gummed up between the radiator and the air cond condensor. But, just looking at it, I cant tell. When Ive had my regular mechanic and even a dealer eye ball it, they say it looks fine.



Is it worth it to have the radiator pulled and inspected ? And then pressure washed anyways ? My truck is an 02 with about 49K miles.



Looking for some educated opinions.



Thanks,

Tractorat

 

[keimmmo]

I pulled my radiator a while back on the 01. 5 and spent about half a day cleaning the bugs out of the radiator and the air conditioning condensor, and intercooler. It didn't look that bad when I started, but as I began the project, I realized just how bad it really was!



DO NOT use a high pressure washer!!! It will bend the fins on everything and make things even worse than they are!!! I sprayed everything down with cleaner and used a garden hose to wash out everything FROM THE BACK SIDE! You need to blast everything out the front... the opposite of how it got there! I finished with an air gun to dry out everything... and blow out more bugs.



It made a MAJOR difference is how warm the truck runs when pulling... and the air works a little better too.



Steve Keim

 

[Mundgyver]

I would power wash the outside radiator to make sure that you get the maximum airflow though it and then replace the thermostat. While replacing the thermostat I would do a flush of the system using Powdered Electrosol, Automatic Dish Washing Detergent. Flush out to clear water, install new water followed by 2 to 3 scoops of Electrosol after warming up for a few minutes. Go for a good hot drive, 40 to 50 miles and then drain and flush with clear water twice more. Install the new thermostat and replenish with new 50/50 radiator mix and see where that takes you. The most expensive part will be a new thermostate. Electrosol is aboutt 50 cents and then your time. Should take you about 2 hours. The Electrosol works very, very well and is a allot cheaper than stuff you buy at the parts house.

 

[GShail]

I would check your fan clutch and see that is getting the correct rpm with the correct corresponding fan pulse width modulation. At idle it should be around 850 rpm and 15% Fan pulse width modulation. If your AC is not working when you are at idle and only works at higher rpm's you could definitely have an issue with your fan clutch.

 

[PC12Driver]

Check out this thread and scroll down to #14 for the pics of my radiator when I took it out. My Dad's truck (also an '01 with about 1/2 the miles) was also gummed up just as bad. These radiators do get plugged up over time, and you really can't see it unless it's out of the truck (I had no idea that mine was that bad - I even make a point of rinsing it out from the back with a garden hose every time I wash the truck).



When I clean mine, I'll take it out, soak it with a foaming engine cleaner (not Simple Green - it attacks aluminum) and then hit it with my pressure washer. Our radiators are much more durable than the older and softer finned style (like the condensor), and as long as you put some space between the nozzle and the fins and use a softer tip, you'll be okay (and that's with my 5hp gas model).



If the radiator is plugged, it's gonna restrict airflow over the a/c condensor a bit. You may get your a/c back after cleaning the radiator.

 

[nps]

I would check your fan clutch and see that is getting the correct rpm with the correct corresponding fan pulse width modulation. At idle it should be around 850 rpm and 15% Fan pulse width modulation. If your AC is not working when you are at idle and only works at higher rpm's you could definitely have an issue with your fan clutch.

He's got an 02 - it has a viscous fan clutch that is set to 195*. You can't miss it when it works - sounds like a jet taking off when it kicks on.

 

[ANG012]

While you have the radiator out have a radiator shop pressure clean the inside of the radiator with air and water. This will make a big difference to.

 

[jelag]

I pull at 20K lb trailer all the time..... up a 7% grade, my 04 now has 173K miles.....



When driving up the grapevine (5 or 6 miles of 6%) or across the desert at 110 with a load the needle will get to the middle of the second 0... ... sometimes when I get behind someone close and the air is blown around the front of the truck the needle might climb to the right side of that second 0... . on a cool day or with little load it runs between the 2 and first 0... . Hope this helps... .



I do see a large rise when a large truck pulls in front of me... or I get close to him...

 

[Tractorat]

Thanks for the feedback. But, what do you mean by the "second" 0 ? My guage has 190 in the middle with a tick mark to either side to indicate the safe zone.



Tractorat

 

[KWheaton]

Did you check the crankcase breather hose and bottle? My 01' had oil and dirt stuck all over the place, so I got rid of the bottle and put on a new longer hose thats zip tied to just above the axle. This procedure stopped the oil from being slung all over the place (and recirculated through the radiator) by the fan. Then I pulled the radiator and did a big cleaning job. Ran good all last summer, even out in the badlands where it was 110 and the a/c was running. Good luck.

 

[Tractorat]

Actually, when I had my oil changed at the end of last summer, I noticed a lot of oil down in front of the pan. The guy that changed the oil admitted that the bottle was full. But, he said the radiator was clean. From what Ive read on the tdr, Im not sure I believe him. I think I will have the radiator removed and cleaned.



Im mechanically challenged myself. Can anyone offer me any guesses as to what it will cost to have the radiator removed and cleaned ? Maybe even at a dealership ? Im not sure I trust my regular mechanic anymore (for other reasons besides my truck)



Tractorat

 

[PC12Driver]

I have a hard time pinning the plugged radiator on the blowby bottle. My breather has been relocated since the truck was pretty much new, and my radiator was just as bad as my Dad's truck with the bottle in place. I'm not sure what it would take to get oil vapors through a large fan and upwind through the radiator. The front of my radiator had way more junk in it than the fan side. I'd say it would have more to do with environment (bugs, pollen, humidity, etc).

 

[KWheaton]

Hot towing on bumpy city streets with a full breather bottle will cause some added oil distribution, in my opinion. I had a black gooey ring in the exact shap of the fan on the FRONT of the radiator. Having driven for 25 years now, and having owned gas and diesel vehicles, I've never seen the amount of gunk stuck to the bottom of the hood, the fender walls, the fan, the radiator/shroud/condenser/intercooler, as I have on my 01'. It was everywhere, now I have a wet spot on the front axle housing right under the crankcase breather hose, thats it.



As far as mechanics go, could be a 12 pack and a buddy for 3 hours on a Saturday, or $75. 00 an hour and the "this is broke and that needs replacing", schpeel down at the dealership for around $500 minimum (the cost of those shop supplies these days, huh?).



I'm lucky enough to have an ASE certified high school pal at the local repair shop. He does the brakes, ball joints, U-joints and the like. I just get to play with the fun stuff, like guages, intake and exhaust upgrades and maintenance.



Good luck. Kevin