Radiator differences?

[andyr]

If I remember correctly the inlet and output to the radiator are on different sides on my 93. It runs a little warmer than it did when it was stock. With a load it goes up to but not quite to the mark that the owners manual says is normal for a load. btw I have a gcvw of 17,410 lbs. never even tried to overheat with 100* temps and A/C on. But there are no major hills or mountains in my area. I'm not sure if they modified anything for the newer radiators (other than hose routing).

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'93 D250 CC 210hp nv4500 5spd straight exhaust grover air horm

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

You might want to try the archives for related info on swaping out the early radiators for the 92 or 93's. I have never had problems under some heavy tow conditions in the mountains all over the west. I have also added a Horton Fan just in case. My radiator contact has some ideas in case I do have problems in the future.
Happy Trails

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1993 250 4X2 - Banks Power Pack, BD Power Injectors, K&N Air Filter, 6 gauges and tweaked pump. 27lbs boost unloaded.
Horton fan & NV4500 5 speed.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

My early '91 Ram 250 was "blessed" with the limited cooling provided by a radiator that is too small and poorly designed for the work I need from my truck, especially heavy towing up steep Sierra grades. Previous mods and careful maintenance have greatly improved overall performance of the original radiator, but additional planned Bombing will most certainly exceed the original radiators ability to keep up with additional heat generated.

QUESTION IS, are the radiators in the later first generatiom trucks, '92-'93 significantly improved as to allow simple replacement, or will I need a custom radiator made for my truck? Do the later first generation truck radiators still place the inlet/outlet on the same side of the radiator, or did they finally wise up and place them on opposite sides?

Do you fellas with later year trucks than mine feel your cooling is adequate - especially if you have bombed your truck and use it in pulling situations in steep. long grades - or would you suggest something better in my case than a simple direct swap to the later radiator?

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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

 

[Matt S]

I believe someone (I can't remember who right now) put a baffle in the radiator to force the coolant across the entire radiator and prevent it from short cycling.

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft, JRE 3" exhaust, Banks Intercooler, Lucas injectors

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"I believe someone (I can't remember who right now) put a baffle in the radiator to force the coolant across the entire radiator and prevent it from short cycling. "


YUP - that was ME! #ad


That, and a few other small items have helped me THIS far, but now that I wish to increase power output higher from my Cummins, I *know* the cooling problem will soon get out of hand and beyond the capabilities of my current radiator. Unfortunately, not enough info from this thread yet to convince me that merely swapping the radiator from a '92-'93 will give me the margin of cooling safety I am really looking for - after all, if I'm gonna do it, might as well do it RIGHT! #ad


BUT, still looking for knowledgeable info from others who may have already "been there, done that"...

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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

 

[DJP]

Gary,
I had a problem with my 89 overheating last year. I have the same type of radiator as you except I have not done the baffle modification yet. I purchased a new fan clutch for only 60 bucks at Autozone, and it made a big difference. Before you spend hundreds of dollars converting over to the cross-flow design, I would try installing a new fan clutch first. Apparently, over time, the fan clutch will not lock up and allow maximum airflow through the radiator cooling fins.
I was considering your advise you gave me earlier about the divertion baffle at the top of the radiator. It sounds like a great idea, and a whole lot cheaper than the cross flow radiator conversion.

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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, Banks Intercooler, K&N, Full Boar Muffler, 3" exhaust, Diesel Dynamics Stage 1 kit, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K miles.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

YEAH - I did a search on the swapping of later radiators, and found the cost of all parts involved was over $1400! OUCH! Lotta dough if ALL that it provides is cross-flow vs downflow - except that if it really DOES work better than anything we can get outta the standard radiator, I guess it's worth it... maybe... But BEFORE *I* spend that kind of money, I would have to be pretty dern SURE that ALL my overheating problem WERE cured, not just reduced slightly. The diversion plate mod was easy and very effective in obtaining maximum cooling from the stock radiator, but adding the Banks intercooler in front of the radiator, and various small power-enhancing changes has now brought me back to the point where I must do more if further power increases are made...

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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

 

[BillyKidd]

Gary: My $. 02 worth!!! My 93 has a new radiator (stock)and a Banks intercooler. Before mods listed in Signature truck would just about peg the temp gauge climimg a long steady grade when I was pulling my 23'Travel trailer. With mods I'm pulling alot stronger and it still gets hot (coolant temp) but not as much as before mods. The EGT's were at about 1250 (before turbo)before and now don't go over about 1000. I believe the injectors were the biggest plus and the smaller turbo allowed quicker and more boost. I also believe the 12cm2 would'nt have been as good as I think the EGT's would have gone up and the coolant temps with them! Hope this shines same light for you.

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93,CC,4X4,LE,Auto/3. 54. Banks intercooler/exhaust,K&N,PW injectors, 14cm2 wastegated turbo, "timed" pump, Walker "flow-thru" muffler,Emerald Grn. w/ SS running board,Grizzly Grill Guard.

 

[Matt S]

I'm going to guess that the $1400 figure was including shop labor. I've priced the parts and only came up with $700-$800. Maybe less if I could get some from Cummins. As for the lower mounts that need to be fabricated, I've found what I believe are pipe reducers at Home Depot that would do the job. They just need to be welded in. I think they were about $1 each. Do you only have cooling problems with a long pull in the warm weather or all the time? Does it heat up and then you hear the fan kick on and cool it back down?

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Gary,
I have a 91. 5 crossflow radiator installed, parts that I used are 1 new radiator $250, 1 new Fan shroud $19, 1 New Fan Belt, 1 New Fan hub/bearing/bracket from Cummins $225, 2 new upper brackets from Dealer with rubber upper/lower mounts (forget price), 1 new upper radiator hose. I cut off the old radiator brackets from the radiator support and installed the new radiator and listed parts. On my "early 91" radiator support,it already had the lower mount holes for the crossflow radiator. If you like I will try to get some photos. As for $1400, where did they get that price ? Did they buy a new radiator support ?
Kyle

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1985 DODGE 1 ton Crew Cab(imported from California with no rust) W/8' box converted to 4X4 in 1999. Converted to a non-intercooled 1991 Cummins Turbo diesel & rebuilt 5 speed Getrag in 2001(wife can't drive a stick #ad
. Freshly rebuilt and Balanced Cummins, Rebuilt NP205, Rebuilt Injector pump and tweaked, Matched Injectors, 3" New Mandrel Bent Exhaust,no muffler, Borgeson Steering Shaft, K&N Air Filter, 4:10 gears, limited slip rear end, 16" Goodyear GSA Wranglers, 16K Reese 5th Wheel Hitch,and LE Package and a Sony CD Stereo. Next add-on some “Banks” toys ! If you want to know why I did all of this, 2 kids, one on the way and I can't stand F**d and Ch**y. Kyle Hoover ,Fruitport, MI.

[This message has been edited by CrewCabDiesel (edited 03-16-2001). ]

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

WELL, I've taken the plunge, and ordered a replacement '93 radiator for $235 from the local radiator shop that I've done business with in the past - after their inspection and research, they advised that the replacement route was considerably MORE efficient than attempting to recore my original with a thicker core, and much cheaper as well, not including adapting costs. I do my own work anyway, so don't expect TOO many problems. The $1400 figure mentioned above came from a price breakdown supplied by someone a ways back that had used all new components, and I don't THINK it included any additional labor costs. As it stands at present, pulling my 24 ft 5th wheel up a LONG 7% grade will put my temp guage right at the upper limit of the guage, but hasn't boiled that I am aware of. Exhaust temp holds steady at about 1150 pre-turbo, and the stock fan clutch seems to cycle normally. BUT, I have now turned up my injector pump, and am seriously looking at a propane injection system, plus maybe a different turbo housing to provide a bit more boost - I get right at 20 lbs now.

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http://community. webshots.com/user/davison71 Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...