Ram rear fender well undercoating question

[dss56]

Had my 2004 dodge ram in my driveway sanding out the bubbles on the rust areas.
I removed both my rear tail lights and look inside the wells from there.

What is the best way to try and get some undercoating in there I tried a can but would not reach in there.

Would a coating of marvel mystery oil sprayed inside the well from the tail light removal area. I think I found a spray bottle that is adjustable and will spray a stream to reach the area.

I would also try fluid film or some other oil to coat the inside wells with an oil coat. Problem is what could be used to get in there about 4 feet in.
I tried a garden chemical pressure tank with a wand but it sprays a mist I need something that will spray a stream to reach the 4 feet in.

Any suggestions

 

[Wayne M.]

One idea I've been batting around.
http://www.eastwood.com/undercoating-kit-gun-quart-and-aerosol.html

 

[DavidC]

What Wayne said and there is also this, I used it on the inside of my rocker panels and inside tail gate. The 24" extension has multiple discharge holes.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

 

[dss56]

I have been looking all day on internet and have seen many of these and also ones for fluid film with the spray gun.

What chrysler did was they added 4 holes on both sides of the wells and they are right where its rusting.
I put my finger in the holds and you could feel the dirt and sand. So I got my air hose and blew out the holes.
The holes are about 1 inch and are poorly designed they do not allow for drainage and trap dirt in there and when it gets wet causes the rust.

So when i finish doing the body work im blocking the holes and adding fender flairs to cover the area.
So i think im going to get some mystery oil and remove the rear tail lights and shoot some oil in there to the wall and where the weld is on the inner well and the outer well.
The weld area is a poor design.
I have no other rust on my 12 year old truck except both rear wells and its just surface bubbles and im sure its coming from the inside trapping dirt and water and causing the rust.

So at this point i'm just looking to slow down the rust and block those holes so no more water and dirt gets in there to cause anymore rusting but hope to slow it down.

thanks for the reply

 

[DavidC]

I would use the in frame coating as it runs everywhere and should seal all the seems along with the penetration.

Dave

 

[Wayne M.]

Mines way out of control. I wanted to keep up with it, but I got blasted right where the gas door would be on the right side. But I'm going to look closer at the left side which is cherry. I'll skin the whole right side eventually.
Mid there a link for the fluid film gun? That stuff is good, but not permanent, correct?

 

[dss56]

DavidC

That liiks pretty good but I thing 24inch will not make it to the area I want it to cover.
Some day take off your rear tail light just 2 screws and pops right off and look in there most likely rust if you have a 2002-2008 all beds are the same.
Again a bad design by chrysler. I just want to reach beyond the actual wheel well and get close to the cab want to cover as much as I can
I live in Boston much road salt in the winter.
I bought truck with 35k on it 7 yrs ago and now 85k so not much driving but dont like seeing the rust.
So i think if I get a good coating of oil in there moisture might not cause the rust as much, I hope.
At this point just looking for a good cheap solution.
Like I said I'm going to add fender flares and they cost $140 for all 4 wheels.
I might even see if a local place that does undercoating down the road and see how much they would charge to shoot both wells from the tail lights, that is another option.
Just doing this now for this coming winter i'm trying to keep truck as long as possible.

 

[Wayne M.]

I poured oil in my tailgate, to penetrate the roll seam at the bottom. I think it's working. I remember watching all the Bronco's loose their gates all through the 80-90's.

 

[dss56]

Fluid film is not permanent have to do every year so that is why I don't want to spend too much money on what type of oil or undercoating I use.
I will do the oil treatment now and when November comes I will do again. Also I read some people spray in there rust prohibitor and hope it will neutralize the rust. I dont like that Idea a good oil coating to repel the water should work.
I hope the mystery oil will do the trick and at least coat the rust and if water should get in there it will just run off. Like I said all holes will be blocked off. I can see if there was proper drainage but the way the holes are it actually traps the dirt and water and sits there till it dries out and in winter time that could freeze in there and take much longer to dry out.

 

[dss56]

Wayne
I see your in NY so you also have the salt to deal with. It sucks you pay big bucks and you get rust. I remember back in the days I had a nice 1969 GTO yellow and black interior. One day I felt the driver side carpet wet and thought a window leak. no it was a hole rotted through the driver side floor right where you rest foot for the gas pedal.
Well I had to get that cut out and a piece welded in to fix. Car was about 6 yrs old. I know cars don't rust as much anymore but there should never be any more rusted cars/trucks with the technology today.

 

[Wayne M.]

So true. And amplified today with the use of liquid de icing along with rock salt. That stuff is brutal!

 

[dss56]

I live here right next to Boston Harbor and about 2 miles from the huge piles of rock salt that come off the ships and was left over from this past easy winter we had here in Boston.
These piles are huge and are covered with tarps and used tires tied together to keep the rain from melting the salt.
These piles supply most of the coast here in Boston so as I said are huge. Also they use the liquid salt that isn't that bad. I wish they would use the liquid salt but most towns are not set up to make the liquid salt. Well I hope you don't have much rust on your truck if you do.
I did my body work today and now have to wet sand the red putty filler prime and paint. then fender flares.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

dss56,

If you were to unbolt and slide the bed away from the cab, are there access holes from the front? Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought my '06 had holes in the front.

Also, I would recommend taping off the holes in the bottom of your doors and pouring oil down the doors.

 

[jgillott]

I started this similar thread a couple of years ago when the left bedside on my '07 began to show small signs of rust.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/248183-Rust-repair-opinion

To summarize, I ended up replacing the entire bedside. After the original bedside was removed, the rust that was visible from the inside was very extensive. I never did update that thread with additional pictures, but somewhere I have one that shows the bedside after removal. The rust was spread at least 8-12" with only a few little bubbles visible from the outside.

After it was fixed, Ziebart went in there with a long wand from the taillight area.

 

[Wayne M.]

J, do you remember where you got the skin from? I'm scouting a quality piece.

 

[jgillott]

I used an OEM Dodge piece. It was a little more expensive than the generic, but I think it was worth it.

 

[PWong]

What chrysler did was they added 4 holes on both sides of the wells and they are right where its rusting.
I put my finger in the holds and you could feel the dirt and sand. So I got my air hose and blew out the holes.
The holes are about 1 inch and are poorly designed they do not allow for drainage and trap dirt in there and when it gets wet causes the rust.

So when i finish doing the body work im blocking the holes and adding fender flairs to cover the area.

You need to install the well liner set from Mopar (for around $140) first then the fender fare.

The rust issue probably won't happen if the well liner was installed when the truck was new.

 

[Wayne M.]

You need to install the well liner set from Mopar (for around $140) first then the fender fare.

The rust issue probably won't happen if the well liner was installed when the truck was new.

NOPE!!!!
I put them in first thing. I don't think it matters.

 

[Wayne M.]

For the guys contemplating a reskin like me, I wonder if we can petition a quality outfit like AMD to make them for us. AMD makes excellent Mopar restoration sheet metal.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

You need to install the well liner set from Mopar (for around $140) first then the fender fare.

The rust issue probably won't happen if the well liner was installed when the truck was new.

I totally disagree with this. One of the first things I do to a new vehicle is remove the rear well liners. The liner traps salt, sand, grit, grime and who knows whatever else on the lip that runs around the well. Around here you can find trucks only a couple years old with rust on the top side of the well.