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Ran great, parked in garage, now water in fuel light and wont start.

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Hey everyone.. Ive been a happy camper since buying my 12 valve a few months ago. It spends most of its time in the garage and I fixed the kdp with no issues. Now fluids and planned on a fuel pressure gauge next..

This morning I tried to start it and it just cranked over. Nothing.. I tried three times, nothing. I'm beside myself. The water in fuel light comes on right when I turn the ignition and says wait and then goes out a few seconds later..

Can anyone guide me to instructions how to bleed water out of the fuel filter? I see the yellow handle on top, but don't know which banjo nut to loosen when pushing the pump lever to purge the air.

Thanks

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The yellow handle is the valve that drains the filter. If the light goes off after a few seconds that's probably the check function of the light and is normal operation.

It sounds to me like you've lost prime. Usually due to a small air leak in the fuel system. It could be anywhere between the fuel tank and the injection pump and can be difficult to track down depending on severity of leak. if it will sit several days and still start its probably a very small leak.
You'll have to prime the lift pump then crank the engine over with one or two injectors loose at a time to get it started again .
 
The yellow handle is the valve that drains the filter. If the light goes off after a few seconds that's probably the check function of the light and is normal operation.

It sounds to me like you've lost prime. Usually due to a small air leak in the fuel system. It could be anywhere between the fuel tank and the injection pump and can be difficult to track down depending on severity of leak. if it will sit several days and still start its probably a very small leak.
You'll have to prime the lift pump then crank the engine over with one or two injectors loose at a time to get it started again .

Thanks JR. You might be right, but the PO didn't drive it much either and the water in fuel light never came on before..

I just put a new filter in, old one was black, and I hope to prime and go. Fingers crossed..
 
Used fuel filters will always be black, not really anything to be concerned about. Look up asphaltenes if you're bored, it's normal. If you've drained the fuel filter canister and replaced the filter I can't imagine that it wouldn't start after bleeding. Loosen the bolt at the top of the fuel canister and manually prime the fuel pump. Once you have fuel coming out of the top of the canister, tighten up that bolt and crack an injector or two loose like JR mentioned. It may run rough for a minute but it will run...that's what 12V's do...

If all of that works and everything is happy then you probably are losing prime, or maybe the WIF light isn't lying and you have some really bad fuel in the tank. Keep us posted.
 
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you . If the WIF light is coming on briefly when the key is cycled but goes out right away it is most likely just a check function of the light. If it is staying on longer or coming on randomly it may be something else entirely .
 
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you . If the WIF light is coming on briefly when the key is cycled but goes out right away it is most likely just a check function of the light. If it is staying on longer or coming on randomly it may be something else entirely .
If it ran, I could tell you. The WIF light goes away quickly, But I dont remember it coming on, ever...

Ive been pumping for a hour. My arms going to fall off even tho I have a cheater tool. All I get is air from the P pump banjo. Should I replace the lift pump and hope it didnt take the p pump with it too?
 
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Ive been pumping for a hour. My arms going to fall off even tho I have a cheater tool. All I get is air from the P pump banjo. Should I replace the lift pump and hope it didnt take the p pump with it too?

You could try routing the fuel pump inlet line to a fuel can to verify the pump isn't bad, there's no way it should take an hour to prime the system. So it's either a catastrophic leak in the lines or a bad fuel pump. The p pump will be fine either way in that scenario.

Do you have any fuel in the filter housing now?
 
I just checked mine. The WIF light does not illum during the check lights phase after turning the key on. I don't suppose you have a fuel pressure gauge.
 
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Pumping the priming bulb on the lift pump purged the air from the filter, but not the P pump return.. I loosened the return line nut, but I only get air while pumping. But makes me wonder if the lift pump is bad even tho it filled the filter, but not the P pump.
 
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I think your lift pump is over, these engines start pretty easy even with some air, rough but start.
just by cranking the lift pump would prime the system and it would start.
 
If it ran, I could tell you. The WIF light goes away quickly, But I dont remember it coming on, ever...

Ive been pumping for a hour. My arms going to fall off even tho I have a cheater tool. All I get is air from the P pump banjo. Should I replace the lift pump and hope it didnt take the p pump with it too?

If all you are getting is air, are you sure there is fuel in the tank?
 
If all you are getting is air, are you sure there is fuel in the tank?

Thanks everyone..

The tank is 3/4 full.. The lift pump worked fine to fill the dry filter housing, then tightened the 10mm bleed bolt.
I'm wondering why the filter filled so easy, but I continue to get air from the 14mm bleed bolt in my last picture. Is the 14mm bleed bolt in my last picture I posted yesterday the return??

I tried to "pull" vacuum and fuel on what I thought was the return line with a suction gun and got nothing. Did I try to pull fuel from the supply?
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And is the return behind the supply and can I somehow pull vacuum on it? Or pressurize the fuel tank to move fuel to the 14mm bleed return bolt? Because I cracked #2 and #5 injectors but get no fuel..

I rebuilt a 1st gen a few years ago and after priming the fuel system, started up on the first crank.. But I'm not as familiar with 2nd gen P-pumps.
 
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If you have fuel in the filter you can bleed the injector lines by cracking the injector nuts and cranking the engine. Have someone monitor the injectors for when they start to spit fuel. I don't know if it makes a difference but I floorboard the accelerator while cranking. It will start with the lines loose.
 
If you have fuel in the filter you can bleed the injector lines by cracking the injector nuts and cranking the engine. Have someone monitor the injectors for when they start to spit fuel. I don't know if it makes a difference but I floorboard the accelerator while cranking. It will start with the lines loose.

Thanks.

Should I be cracking the 14mm bleed bolt while pumping? Is that return? Should I see fuel there before I try to start?

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One other thing I should have thought of sooner. Have you verified the fuel shut off solenoid is pulling up when you turn the key to start?

haha. Both you and my buddy asked the same question about the same time, and no. I had not, and feel like a fool because it runs now after pushing it up.

Well, at least I learned a few things over the last day and a half.. And maybe Ill do the weed eater string to the lighter theft preventer mod..
 
One other thing I should have thought of sooner. Have you verified the fuel shut off solenoid is pulling up when you turn the key to start?

Well done Gary, we all missed that obvious one. I think the WIF light threw us off.

Rebar - Glad you are up and running.
 
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haha. Both you and my buddy asked the same question about the same time, and no. I had not, and feel like a fool because it runs now after pushing it up.

Well, at least I learned a few things over the last day and a half.. And maybe Ill do the weed eater string to the lighter theft preventer mod..

Just a guess, but you probably need one of these. Maybe two. I always carry one as a spare ever since having to lift the hood and push the lever up at the Canadian border check point.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/lb-ss70a/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts
 
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