Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) RASP w/relocated LP

[BJonesUSA]

Anybody running a RASP with the factory relocated LP? I want a RASP, but I'm not sure how to go about hooking it up now that I have the in-tank LP... any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated.

 

[Graphic man]

I run the RASP but with the L/P in factory location... ... . it should be easy with a big line kit and some extra fuel line... . power by poole and DTT has a line kit for the RASP, it may be easer to put the LP back in the factory location.



you will love the RASP



Scott

 

[BJonesUSA]

ok, let me ask this... with the LP now in the tank, should I still use the Hobb's switch to turn it off once the RASP is pressured up, or just leave it running all the time to feed the RASP, but have a bypass in case the RASP fails? Also, how hard would it be to relocate the LP to the original position?

 

[Graphic man]

one thing you need to watch is with the LP in the tank there would have to be a by pass around the LP to feed the RASP, you don't want to run both together the LP would no be able to keep up to the RASP.



you would need to drop the tank and remove the LP and get one to go back up on the side of the motor, then get the big line kit to make it work right.



hope this helps a little



Scott

 

[rweis]

On my RASP I dump the bypass fuel back into the tank using a T in the tank filler vent line. This leaves the tank return line not being used.



If I had a intank lp I would open the tank and make sure the return line goes down as far as the tank feed line and use that "return line" to feed the RASP.



I have the lp relocated on the frame by the tank and use a T on the standard tank feed line, one side to the RASP, the other side to the frame relocated LP.



This summer I am going to drop the tank and rebuild the fuel cannister and make my fuel feed fuel and return lines into two fuel feed lines (remember I dump my RASP bypass into the tank vent line) one for the frame mounted lp and one for the RASP so each has its own straight through fuel feed and no T's.



Bob Weis

 

[Graphic man]

Bob, i think the return line is still being used at the rear of the head.



big line kits



http://www.powerbypoole.com/fuelpumps.html



Scott

 

[rweis]

When the return line goes to the return in the fuel cannister you "redirect" it to the vent line. "Redirect" it back by the tank to the vent line.



Bob Weis

 

[BJonesUSA]

Here's what I think I'm gonna do: pull the pump out of the tank, buy a carter 4600 to put on the frame just in front of the tank, and use a T to feed it and the RASP. Sounds pretty much like what you have now Bob, am I close?

 

[rweis]

Yes, that is the way I have it right now.



Thoughts:



Use the "straight through" part fo the T fitting to feed the RASP as the RASP can pump way more fuel than the standby electric pump. Makes the fuel path "normally used" with less turns and a smoother flow.



I have not had a fuel feed quantity problem with my DD2's and Smarty using the OEM fuel feed line right out of the tank. When you cut the OEM fuel feed line you will find a 3/8" OD compression fitting will fit correctly. The return line is however smaller than 3/8" and the OD of the return line will fit well INSIDE (ID) a 3/8" line. There is a Aeroquip 3/8 compression to AN-6 fitting that I used to make the transition from the hard feed line to the AN-6 fuel lines.



I have been running this configuration for about 1 + years and tow a 13k 5er on occassion (high fuel flow, high throttle settings).



Right after I get off the hard line to AN-6 I go to a RACOR 690T for filtering. The 690 is sufficient over sized (on the suction side) to not be a choke point for the RASP fuel input (ie pleanty of flow available to the RASP).



Bob Weis

 

[BJonesUSA]

Thanks Bob, that helps me out a bunch... . kinda hard planning this all out while I'm over here in the sandbox, but I'll only have 2 weeks at home next month, so I'm trying to maximize my time.

 

[BQuinones]

Another option to consider is the MITUSA pump. I just installed one in my truck over the weekend. It is a pretty straightforward installation. The Hobbs switch wiring is quick and easy. Opie put a lot of thought into his system, and I am more than impressed. For me, the most difficult aspect of the installation was where to run the lines to connect to the MITUSA. A little more time pre-planning on my behalf would have made that quick, as well. In addition, Opie supplied a priming kit with the setup to make things even easier. I believe the MITUSA is well worth your consideration.



Ben