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Real HID Headlights for 1st gens

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Hey everyone, today I finished installing my TSX HID headlights. When I was building the system, one headlight produces more light then both my Silverstar 6054 headlights!!:-laf Yes this is the same system you see on Porches, Mercedes, Acuras, BMWs, and other higher end cars.



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What is it:


HID(High Intensity Discharge) Headlights use an arc of electricity between two electrodes instead of electricity passed through a filament. They produce 2. 5 times the light that a normal headlight produces. This arc of electricity takes a ballast/igniter combo to establish the arc, and keep it going while you drive. While I wont go into the details of how the bulbs work here, you can get all that information easily enough though google. HID systems use usually 35 watts of power each. You can get higher wattage HIDs, but there are frigging bright! The sharp cutoff is produced by the Projector. Without this curved peice of glass, light would go everywhere. This is what makes these systems desirable. Without this cutoff, it would be illegal, and BLIND on coming drivers.





Parts:

There are 5 main parts you'll need: The ballast, the igniter, the bulb, the projector, and the headlamp adapter for the projector.



-The Ballast and Igniter are usually packaged together, so no worry's there. What you do have to worry about is the brand. If the ballast was used in a OEM application(Bosch, Hella, Valeo, Matsu****a, Denso, Sylvania) then it is what you want to use. They are very stable, have a very long life, provide better output, and they are usually waterproofed. The alternative ballasts, as seen in my conversion(Made in China, Mculloch, Bohmen, etc). They cost about the same price, so dont get fooled!

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-The Bulbs are a little confusing. There are D1S, D2R, and D2S bulbs. The D1S bulbs have a square ignitor on the bakc of the bulb. If your conversion housings come with these, run them I guess. They seem a harder bulb to come buy, and they are more expensive. D2R bulbs were manufactured for Mercedes so the base is different then almost every other car using a D2S bulb. More the likley you will need a D2S bulb.



About bulb color. Don't get fooled into the blue or any other color is better then white. A white bulb is around 4500 Kelvin. Buy a bulb in that color range. The more color, the less lumens out of the bulb on the road ahead. Think about this, the sun is around 5800 Kelvin, so anything between 5800 and 4500 is a good color IMO. If you want blue, green. purple, or UV headlights go ahead. You will have less light then you have now, and you can always just switch the bulbs later when your not happy.



Color 35 watt Lumens

3000k Yellow 3200 Lumens

4500k Pure white 3400 Lumens

5000k White with a tiny hint of blue 3300 Lumens

6000k White with a violet hue 3200 Lumens

8000k Sky blue 3100 Lumens



-The Projector. There are many different brands/types of projector housings. I am going to use Acura TSX projectors in this project. There are two types, high and low beams(bi-xenons), and just lows(single xenons). In this write up I am just using Low Beam Only headlights and they are smaller, and I wanted to see how they did. So you will need a separate high beam if you choose to use these exact model housings. The Porsche and BMW high/low projectors are next on my list, and they actually cost less then these doOo. . The TSX Housings in this conversion are LOW BEAM ONLY. You will need to use a secondary high beam, light the lights I have on the front of my truck in the pictures.

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-The Adapter takes the TSX projector, and fits it into our 6054 headlight buckets. The way I choose to do it is simple, ads some adjustments, and is cheap:) Parts you need for out adapter include clear lenses, 4mm machine screws, springs, and thats about it. I will update this tommrow with exact lengths etc.







The Procedure:


See Below
 
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I've realized that if someones behind you at night, their lights shine further than the truck's even if youre in front. This is an awesome idea. Can't wait for the procedure pics. Nice job, Lifted.
 
Brandon,
Don't feel alone brother. I also am waiting for the dark of night to check out my new Roundeyes LED rocklights.
Maybe we can get a group therapy discount!:-laf

MADDOG
 
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Brandon,

Don't feel alone brother. I also am waiting for the dark of night to check out my new Roundeyes LED rocklights.

Maybe we can get a group therapy discount!:-laf



MADDOG



I was going to get some of those for the limo, but I have ran out of money. All the pictures of these show a ton of light. You should post up some pics so the rest of us can see.
 
The Procedure:

Building the housing adapter is easy. Just read though this, collect parts, and go for it.

-The lens I used are from an sealed beam to H4 conversion headlight. You want a lens that is clear, with no flutes. There are only 3 small flutes on these plastic lens. Note, glass lens are much more durable, and dont scratch. Be prepared to replace these lens.
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-Place lens in boiling hot water. The glue will get soft, and you can seperate them from the body. Simple, I told you.
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-Make sure the outer part of the lens fits your housing Adapter Main Body.

-The main body I used I built on a CNC plasma cutter. Note, this is the first one i built so yes there is one mis-drill. I am not perfect yet, so one hole had to be redilled out of 8. Ill get better next time. This plate seemed like the most simple, cheapest, and fastest way to do it. I have extras for sale if anyone wants them.
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-Okay, next I removed the entire light assembly from the truck. It is only 3 1/2" nuts, so it was fast. I removed the assembly, then took it to my counter.

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-Remove the light from the stock assembly.

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-Time to assemble the conversion. Place the 4 machine screws, with washers through the holes in the Adapter Main Body. I prefer to use the hex head machine screws, as they look better in the end. These pictures are after I ran out, so I am using normal stainless machine screws. The length machine screws you want are long enough to easily start onto the TSX Housing when doing the conversion, but have enough thread on them to flush the lens on the TSX Housing with the hole in the Adapter Main Body.

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-Turn over the Adapter Main Body. Place the springs, or solid spacers, then a washer, over the 4 machine screws.

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-Place the first half of the TSX Housing on top of the 4 machine screws. At this time, if you are going to "color" mod the housing(as seen elseware), place 1 washer over the 4 machine screws that now poke though the front of the TSX Housing.

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-Heres the tricky part. Now place the back half of the TSX Housing over the 4 machine screws. The trick is to support both ends of the adapter main body covering the ends of the machine screws. You will want to leave the hole in the middle open, as to allow the lens to compress downwards. Screw the machine screws into the threaded holes on the TSX Housing.

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-Now your all done with that part. Make sure that the TSX Housing is sitting kinda center in the housing adapter main body. With the springs, you can push around the body until it centers itself.

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-Now place make sure your plastic lens fits on the Adapter Main Body with the TSX Housing in place. You want the TSX Housing chrome lens holder flush with the top of the Adapter Main Body so it does not touch the plastic lens.
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-Place the chrome housing ring around your new 6054 conversion headlight, and now comes the fun part; set the conversion 6054 into the headlight bucket assembly from the truck. There is a fittment issue with the metal piece. Cut it with a grinder, or drill, or whatever works until the two pieces fit together. I was lucky that I had already drilled out my piece shown for a previous h4 conversion headlamp beam.
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-Screw the 4 screws through the chrome ring into the assembly. Note there is a small 1/8 gap or so now between the bottom of the chrome ring and the headlight bucket assembly. I used some small spacers. This problem is due to the increased thickness of the Adapter Main Body from the stock headlight.

-Now you can place the assembly back though your grille, tighten the 3 1/2" nuts on the backside of the radiator support, and you are almost done! This is what you get:
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Tomorrow, Ill show you how to wire it all in. Im all tuckered out right now. My aiming pictures turned out horrible as it was pouring rain. all you see are two bright lights and rain. Mabye better tommorow.
 
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Whats your plan for sealing up the back? How are you going to adjust the rotation for correct alignment?



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Alignment is very easy, you can use the factory dodge adjustment screws, and the screws you installed into the Adapter Main Body. My truck has been totaled more then once, so the rad support isn't strait. The screws on the Adapter Main Body are the only way to adjust the beam.



As for rotational alignment, this was a concern for me. After playing around with the Adapter Main Body holes, I found that as long as they are square, then the only rotational adjustment needed is the very little slop you get when bolting down the chrome ring to the headlight bucket. I had to adjust my left headlight about 2 degrees down this way. If you need more rotational adjustment then that, then your Adapter Main Body is crooked. You could also elongate the 3 holes for the headlight bucket and rotate the entire assembly.



As for sealing up the new headlights, this is a must. After you get your new headlights aligned, remove just the chrome ring, lens, and Adapter Main Body. To seal up the lens, use black silicon, or the caulking your choice around the very edges of the lens. To seal up the TSX Housing, I have used high temp silicon on the mating surfaces, covered by flashing tape. This seemed to work the best. You will also want to put silicon and/or flashing tape around the backside of the TSX Body to the Adapter Main Body hole where the curved lens pokes though. Reinstall the assembly onto the headlight buckets when its all dried!
 
flashing tape :eek::eek:

Take some time to figure out how to completely seal the back up (did you see the pics I posted?) you will be mad when bulbs burn out and the projector lense fogs up



The screws would blend in better if you painted them black.

I would recommend using black urethane to seal your lights.





great job!!



Jordan
 
I have used flashing tape on 4 different HID projects. It is aluminum foil with a very sticky adhesive. Very durable. Water proof, thats why they use it to hold back water. Combine that over a seal of high temp urethane/silicone, and they are water proof. I will finish these lights, and hold them under water to show you. I didn't believe this stuff would work the first time I saw it done, but it does.

There are other ways to seal this setup. You could weld a piece of tube to the back of the Adapter Main Body, and add a grommet to the bottom side for the wires. This is a big chore though, as you'll have to cut the headlight buckets significantly, and the radiator core support significantly.

And yes, I could paint the screws black to hide them. One side is actually black hex screws, and one side stainless machine screws. I like the look of the exposed black hex screws personally.

This first set is kinda the experiment set. I am going to take these things apart a dozen times to try different ideas, different sealing setups, different ways of mounting them , etc. But, as they are, with the addition of a waterproofing agent, they work just fine.

I also just found a supplier of glass 6054 lenses for less then the expensive plastic ones I used for this conversion. I ordered a set to make sure they will work.
 
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Just an FYI for those wanting to do this: I have a set of cheapo housings to get rid of that have the clear glass lenses req'd for this project. Buyer to pay shipping plus five bux covers the pair. No bulbs, just housings. PM me if you are interested. Thanks.
 
Awesome thread, I had a set of e55 bi-xenons from an old project I was just thinking about retro-fitting into my old girl, will go nicely with the led lights I'm working on as well.

That boiling water trick seems a lot better than the 'stick them in the oven' option most people do. I'll have to give that a try.

I kind of like the projector set back a little further with shrouds though, like this person did on his. It just makes it look a lot more 'finished' than just some other ways of doing it. (don't get me wrong, yours looks good too, and waaaay better than the first set I ever tried doing)

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4 KC daylighters on a push bumper! Thats my idea of high intensity! For some reason I just cant get used to the light from HID's. Nor LED's such as flashlights or work lights. Nor CFL's in the house.



Other than that I like the danger and risk of going 60 on a curvy road at night during a rainstorm using only HB2 halogen dims... and not seeing much more than 8' in front of the truck. Gives me a better appreciation of tire grip and steering feel. :D



Looks good though! Modern upgrade to old beasts.
 
I don't really have the time or funds to jump into an HID upgrade right now.

Thatwithstanding, what is the best replacement for the OEM lights? Silverstars?

--Eric
 
Direct replacement probably the silverstars.

you could do a Hella H4 upgrade with higher power bulbs if you aim them properly.

Biggest change I made to my truck was to power the headlights through a couple relays and run 12 gauge wire to them. Made a huge difference, I even used a small diode to keep the lows on with the high beams to help fill in right in front of the truck. Just be nice to oncoming drivers as there is a lot of light with highs and lows on. I was worried about overheating of the bulb at first, but after 4 years haven't popped a bulb yet.
 
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