REAL oil pressure guage?

[Van Blom]

I understand that the oil pressure guage in our trucks is merely an idiot light with a dial.

Has anyone changed it out for a real pressure guage?



Another question I have, since I have yet to purchase a shop manual, How do you get to the guages in the console if you wanted to replace one?



Thanks in Advance,



Paul

 

[JStieger]

I understand that the oil pressure guage in our trucks is merely an idiot light with a dial.

Has anyone changed it out for a real pressure guage?



Another question I have, since I have yet to purchase a shop manual, How do you get to the guages in the console if you wanted to replace one?



Thanks in Advance,



Paul

Paul-



See my reader's rig gallery. I have an ISSPRO EV mechanical gauge as of 1 week ago that replaced my ISSPRO EV electrical gauge that is shown in my gallery. Gauges otherwise look identical. This gauge is in addition to the idiot on/off gauge.



I like the mechanical a lot better - in fact all my add on gauges are mechanical (except for pyro). I used -3AN stainless steel braided tubing to run from the oil filter adapter to my steering column mount pod inside the cab. Runs 65 psi hot at highway speed and a hair over 20 psi hot idle.



In case you're wondering, the electrical EV gauge gave the same readings when it worked, but sometimes it just died to 0 or pegged to 100. If I put the clutch in and let the rpm fall then the gauge would "read" again. TDR member rbattelle also had the EV electrical gauge with the weird issues so it is not just my gauge.

 

[rbattelle]

TDR member rbattelle also had the EV electrical gauge with the weird issues so it is not just my gauge.

I sure did, and continue to. I haven't decided what to do yet...



-Ryan

 

[nickleinonen]

and if you want to run a mechanical gauge off the main lube oil gallery off the block, there are a pair of M10x1. 0 plugs in the left side of the block. one behind/below the CP3, one above the ecm... they are o-ring seal plugs... getting the pressure off there leaves the top plug on the filter pad avalable for a lube oil temp gauge [as the second plug on the filter adapter is pretty hard to access]



i will soon be installing an autometer 4321 ultralite 0-100 mechanical lube oil pressure gauge. i still haven't 100% decided if i will run an isolator on it though [still need to get a price on winters #70 diaphragm seals that i would use as isolators]

 

[Van Blom]

Thanks fellas.

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

I removed the oil pressure sending unit and put in a brass tee so I could have both. I mounted it next to the ash tray (98 12 v) and it took 6 feet of hose. Best to use 100 pound guage. Now I know what is going on when I get the chimes and the electric guage is reading zero. I had to increase idle speed to get rid of the chimes. It was a little below specs in the shop manuel. I removed the left front wheel and the fender liner to gain easy access. use suitable jack stands for safety. hydrolic jacks can not be truseed, a seal can go at any time. China has cornerd the market on hydrolic jacks and with child labor they are not always put together properly. Jim 321 373 5756 or -- email address removed --

 

[Matt400]

How do you get to the guages in the console if you wanted to replace one?

Nothing replaceable in the dash, its serviced as one complete unit. The add on gauges everyone talks about is the practical approach. Just do a search for "gauges" in this forum and you will find a ton of reading and ideas.

 

[JStieger]

and if you want to run a mechanical gauge off the main lube oil gallery off the block, there are a pair of M10x1. 0 plugs in the left side of the block. one behind/below the CP3, one above the ecm... they are o-ring seal plugs... getting the pressure off there leaves the top plug on the filter pad avalable for a lube oil temp gauge [as the second plug on the filter adapter is pretty hard to access]

Now you just had to tell me that... pretty soon I'll have as many gauges as TDR member Y-Knot! (I would have saved on 1/2 the stainless braid tubing too).



If they are O-ring plugs, does it mean the metric-to-AN (or NPT) adapter fitting for the gauge tubing off the block has to have an O-ring too?

 

[rbattelle]

Nick, you need to start a thread on what you did with moving the sender to the main rifle...



-Ryan

 

[nickleinonen]

If they are O-ring plugs, does it mean the metric-to-AN (or NPT) adapter fitting for the gauge tubing off the block has to have an O-ring too?

yep, there needs to be an o-ring on the fitting that you put into the block. you will need either a M10x1. 0 to -xx jic/an fitting or to a pipe thread. i went with a M10x1. 0 to 1/8"npt as i was able to get that at a local hydraulics shop. i used a copper crush washer instead of an o-ring, but for the application, an o-ring will be better [this fitting i have is designed for up to 5,000psi so thats why they suggested a copper washer. an o-ring will work better i think.

Nick, you need to start a thread on what you did with moving the sender to the main rifle.

i want to have the mechaical in cab gauge done before i do this...



some pictures i took during the process...



i wanted to use the plug under the cp3 [i think it is the better location] but the hose i used was too large for that position. if a thinner grease gun type hose was put there, it would clear the cp3 pump [my hose was just touching] and when i get the mechanical gauge for in cab, i will replumb it from the plug under the cp3 [the one above the ecm is harder to get at, but both are accessable from above with an extension and a 5mm allen key socket]

 

[JStieger]

Here's a good website for fittings if access to a good hydraulic shop is limited:



http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/maljictomalm.html