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Neck and Neck

New truck experience 04.5 600

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I'm in the process of working through some dealers who have responded to my request for quotation on a new 600. I have a couple of questions that I'm sure some of you can help me with:



1) true / false:
The 3500 4x4 will tow less then a 2500 4x4, now the 3500 single tires will hold 3000 lbs in the bed compared to 2600 lbs for the 2500. The only difference in the 2500, 3500 is bigger shocks on the 3500 and helper springs on the 3500. The frames are the same on both units.



2) I'm considering a dump bed kit on my new truck, and this is a dealer's reply to that:
on a 2004 they will not do a bed on a 3500, The only one they will do is a 2500 single tire.



Thanks for your help!
 
No the 3500 isn't rated to tow less. The important thing to remember when getting a truck to tow heavy is that any trailer or fifth wheel that is going to put you at max. GCVWR (21,000 lbs or 23,000 lbs) is going to put you over GVWR on the 2500 due to the pin or hitch weight. If you're planning on towing a trailer or 5er that weighs anywhere near 14,000 lbs, do yourself a favour and get the 3500 dually.

Also, his payload example is flawed at best. A 2500 has a GVWR of 9,000 lbs, a 3500 SRW has a GVWR of 9,900 lbs and a 3500 DRW has a GVWR of 12,000 lbs. Count on the truck weighing in at about 7,000 - 7,500 depending on options, etc. You do the math. Get the truck you need.

Yes he's right about the differences between the 2500 and 3500 SRW, except he forgot the most important one: 900 lbs more GVWR.

I've heard the same thing with the box delete option. Do a search.



Dave
 
The short answer to your questions:



1. The only difference between 2500/3500 is a set of overload springs and a set of running lights on the cab. (assuming single rear wheels. No difference in shocks. If you want facts on the weights and measures, get a look at the GVW stickers...



I noticed looking at several invoices that it 'appears' that stock steel rims on a 2500 are 17x6 and stock steel on 3500 are 17x8. If you buy the upgraded wheels in aluminum, then the 2500 gets 17x8.



2. Who is 'they'? I can't think of a reason this is true. Since the frames are the same, one kit should fit both.



The appearance of your answers from the dealer seems to indicate they really want to move 2500s for whatever reason. The difference in price between 2500/3500 if you work from invoice is only 4 or 5 hundred dollars. I hate the cab lights but figured I'd eventually do the overloads anyways. The real cost to me was making the truck legal at the higher GVW.
 
What do you mean "they" won't "do a bed"? What is "doing a bed"? I'm confused.



There was also something awhile back about the rear brake pistons being slightly larger on a 3500 than on the 2500. I would tend to believe that the shocks might be a little different on the 3500, too. But if everyone says they're not, maybe everyone's right and I'm wrong.
 
The dump kit I'm thinking about is similar to this, obviously with a different truck :p :

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If anyone has feedback on this sort of thing, I'm all ears.

Klenger, thanks for that link!

rbattelle, the "they" is the local company this dealership works with to install these dump bed kits.
 
SO has (had) the 10. 5 rearend in 2500, there is no longer a SO since 2004. 5



HO has the 11. 5 in 2500



the cab over lights have leaked on a couple of members.



if your putting a load in the bed you want different shocks anywasy right? adjustable shocks IMO.



dump the overload spring, they make noise slapping thier bump stops if your not loaded. Use airbags. the firestone 03 models have problems as firestone designed them to be used in place of the axels bump stop. buy the 2ng gen design and use longer bolts for the boxed in frame on the 3rd gen.



Get the 2500 and use the $500 on airbags and shocks
 
Why stop with a dump bed?

Originally posted by JoelCool

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If anyone has feedback on this sort of thing, I'm all ears.



Any chance you can get that configured as an MLRS (Multiple Lauch Rocket System)?:D



What a sight it would be to see a battle line of CTDs bustin a move across some desert...
 
Several years ago I had to remove 4" of dirt from the side of my house. I had to shovel it into a wheel barrow, cart it all the way around the house, then dump it in the driveway. Once it was all piled up in the driveway, I had to borrow my friend's 4wd Toyota truck, shovel it all again into the truck, then haul it away and shovel it off the truck at the dump. This took about 4 trips. Of course I did the work when it was 100 degrees outside. On the second trip while I was about half way through shoveling it off the Toyota, this truck backs up next to me and two guys get out. One of 'em pushes a button, the bed goes up, and all their junk falls out. Another sip of their Pepsi and the bed was back down, and they drove off.

It was that day I decided I needed one of those things.
 
Originally posted by SLorenzen

SO has (had) the 10. 5 rearend in 2500, there is no longer a SO since 2004. 5



HO has the 11. 5 in 2500



the cab over lights have leaked on a couple of members.



if your putting a load in the bed you want different shocks anywasy right? adjustable shocks IMO.



dump the overload spring, they make noise slapping thier bump stops if your not loaded. Use airbags. the firestone 03 models have problems as firestone designed them to be used in place of the axels bump stop. buy the 2ng gen design and use longer bolts for the boxed in frame on the 3rd gen.



Get the 2500 and use the $500 on airbags and shocks

This is interesting. Just got a call from carsdirect.com, and they found almost the exact truck I'm looking for, but it's a 2500, not a 3500. It even has the two tone graphite / silver color. There's a small savings in insurance if I go for a 3/4 ton verses the 1 ton.



In my current situation, either of these trucks are complete over kill (I've got a 5,000# travel trailer I want to pull). I don't see myself going to a trailer that's going to get close to either GCVWR. We tend to like the smaller campgrounds, and those big trailers won't fit in some of those spots. Am I letting the availability talk me into a truck I'll regret?



I've told them to keep looking.
 
I would suggest you make sure they follow the correct methods of mounting the hardware as far as any drilling, bolt sleeves, or U-bolts go. There is a TSB (or some notice) about this. Basically you want to avoid drill new hole in the hydroframe by using as much existing holes as possible. Bolts through the frame should have sleeves or spacers so you don't crush the frame when tightening the bolts. Watch crushing the frame with U-bolts and etc.
 
Ive heard the calipers are different, has anybody actually confirmed this?



i must have missed it in the service manual... ill double check.
 
ive just read the service manual.



the only difference is in the 5 lug and 8 lug calipers. there was not a two 8 lug diagrams or discriptions. if you have an 8 lug pattern axel, all ctd do, you have the same set of calipers as the rest of the 8 lug type.



the difference lies in the 1500 (5 lug) vs 2500 and 3500 (8 lug). the service manual does not distinguise between 2500 and 3500, there the same...
 
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