Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Really good clutch R&R guide?

[SRath]

My brother just experienced clutch failure on his '02 24-valve/NV5600. It sounds to me like the master cylinder went out, but it also sounds (and smells to him) like he may have cooked the clutch getting the truck back home afterwards.



He lives 2000 miles away, and I'm real limited on what I can do for him, but I did give him a nearly-new NV5600 factory(?) LUK clutch that I was going to use in my own NV4500/NV5600 conversion until I came across a screamin' deal on a Southbend clutch.



He has a challenge here given the sheer mass of that NV5600 and the fact he likely has to do the job by himself laying in the street in front of his house (the San Diego parking cops don't seem to mind that, but if he tries to park his x-cab in his own driveway and the trailer hitch or bumper extends 1 inch over the "sidewalk" (it's actually paved all the way to the curb), and it will, they will issue very expensive parking tickets, even though he lives at the end of a very low-traffic cul de sac and no neighbor would complain.



Anyway, I have sent him numerous links from threads here on TDR to help him, and even sent a link to the R&R article in Issue 50 of the TDR magazine. But if anyone knows of additional or better info he could use before tackling this job (he needs everything on hand to complete the job as quickly as possible before the parking cops figure out some other reason to fine him), I would appreciate being able to send it to him.



Scott

 

[Sticks]

First things first, if needed replace the master and slave cylinder first. He may still be OK.

I wrote this up way back in the before time when I did my truck.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-gen-24-valve-engine-transmission-faq/104448-how-change-clutch.html

I will review it and if I need to make any adjustments, I will post amendments.

 

[Sticks]

If I could remember the wrench sizes I would have listed them.

A couple extra tool additons - 3' 3/8" or 1/2" drive extension and impact wobble adapter for same to get the upper transmission mounting bolts is nice to have. Otherwise this can be done with the basic home owner tools set and a couple of cheater pipes for the ratchets.

Addition to step 1, PLACE TRUCK IN NEUTRAL!!!
Addition to step 37, After you have 2 pressure plate bolts started, remove the clutch alignment tool and eyeball the friction plate to the flywheel pilot bearing making sure it is a straight line through the hole. Same can be done by eyeballing the alignment tool from various angles. NOTE - having the friction plate slightly off will cause you more headaches than you can imagine putting the transmission back in, especially the last inch.
Addition to 43, If you do not have the special tool, the engine can be rotated by the harmonic balancer mounting bolts, or alternator pulley nut. This is where having a helper is handy... OR... eyeball the clocking of the splines of the clutch then rotate the transmission input shaft to the same. EXAMPLE - There is a spline notch at 12 o'clock, rotate the transmission input shaft to match so the rib is at 12 o'clock.

I wrote that before I actually became a mechanic. I stand by the procedure, done several of them.

If your buddy does not have a porta-power (Harbor Freight is your friend) then it is possible to hammer the transmission mounting bracket/cross member out, just not pleasant, and putting it back is worse. I believe most people try to knock it up a little then back to help relieve the tension. I've never gone that route.

 

[SRath]

+1 on check & fix the master cylinder first. That's what i told him. But when he told me about all the smoke he had rolling out from under the truck by the time he got it home, I also figure the clutch is probably now damaged, too.



He still needs to do the m. c. , but probably needs a new clutch and pilot bearing and throwout bearing now, too. There's no way I'd dig that deep into it without replacing those items, along with the rear main seal.



I have an NV5600 sitting in my shop and I'm well aware of the sheer mass of that monster (500 lbs vs. 200lbs for the NV4500). R&R'ing in the street, by himself, with the crown of the road making things tilt sideways sounds dicey to me. If it got away from him, it could do some serious bodily harm.



Though my truck is older, a '96, and I plow snow with it, it has never needed a new clutch or m. c. or anything clutch related. Just the typical 5th gear nv4500 repair. So I have not personally ever tackled the job on one of these dodges, though I've done plenty of them on other trucks and cars. I keep waiting for that day to come so I will finally have the excuse I need to put the NV5600/NP205/southbend clutch conversion that i have sitting here in it. But that doggone stock clutch of mine just keeps going and going and going. Even the 5th gear fix seems to be holding up.



He has most of the tools required, I think, and will buy or borrow what he doesn't have. He's a decent hand with a wrench given a chance to research the job and learn all he can beforehand. I just wish I was there to help or, better yet, that his truck was here.



It appears to me like it will be very close on getting the nv5600 out (on a jack) without first raising the truck. He needs to know those things. The clutch alignment tips you give are very important, too. Nothing makes a 1-man clutch job more difficult than alignment problems.

 

[Sticks]

If he is that tight on room, then get the truck towed to a buddies house that has the room and get-r-done.

And, yeah, gotta get the truck up, unless you are using a crane to lower it to the ground form the top. Not enough room under the transmission with a jack to get it out of the way.

Your conversion from 4500 to 5600... you have replacement drive shafts, yes?

 

[SRath]

I want to thank Gary, (GCroyle) for the link to that excellent youtube video by Perfection Clutch. There is a wealth of good info in it and it proves how much Perfection cares about helping folks do the job right and get the most out of their new clutch. I really liked how it covered not just the "how to" aspect of replacing the clutch, but the "why it failed" cause of the old clutch failure. Very well done!



Here's a link to that video and I know it will help other TDR members:



YouTube - 2004 Dodge Ram Pickup w/ 5. 9L Cummins & NV5600 - Clutch and Flywheel Install



I'm sure Gary did not post the link because he was reluctant to appear like he was promoting any specific company, but I have no connection to any company at all, and I can and will state absolutely that it is a technical video worth watching, all brand names aside.

 

[mroodzant]

I want to thank Gary, (GCroyle) for the link to that excellent youtube video by Perfection Clutch. There is a wealth of good info in it and it proves how much Perfection cares about helping folks do the job right and get the most out of their new clutch. I really liked how it covered not just the "how to" aspect of replacing the clutch, but the "why it failed" cause of the old clutch failure. Very well done!



Here's a link to that video and I know it will help other TDR members:



YouTube - 2004 Dodge Ram Pickup w/ 5. 9L Cummins & NV5600 - Clutch and Flywheel Install



I'm sure Gary did not post the link because he was reluctant to appear like he was promoting any specific company, but I have no connection to any company at all, and I can and will state absolutely that it is a technical video worth watching, all brand names aside.

I want to second the thank you to Gary. He spent almost 30 minutes on the phone and exchanged a few emails today helping sort out my clutch troubles. Gary's shop is almost 3000 miles away and he had no money to gain by taking his valuable to talk me through the nv5600 clutch operations.