Rear axel seals

[ReelDuel]

My LR hub/rotor is showing oil on it. I am guessing the seal is leaking. What could be causing this? Vent tube clogged? Bad seal? How difficult is it to change the seal??\

 

[jelag]

With a floating rear axle, you need to remove the tire, caliper, rotor, axle, and than remove the hub by removing the bearing pre-load nut, out bearing and than the hub will pull off the axle. . once your in there. . I'll assume the oil is all over the emergency brake shoes and they will need to be replaced to function correctly... . If the pre-load nut is installed correctly and not loose than I can't give you a reason for the failure of the seal... Inspect the axle for excessive wear where the seal runs on the axle... clean and grease the bearings or dip in gear oil, replace the seal and re-assemble... Pre-load the bearings and finish the re-assembly... I run both my rear end and front end with the oil level to the TOP of the fill hole instead of the bottom and have had had no problems... Once you've set the oil level in the axle assembly, and the wheels are on the ground... jack the other side up... and let some of the oil move down the tube to the bearings... reset the wheels on the ground and re-check the oil level. .

I think I've covered all the steps. . Hope this helps...

 

[MarkEkberg]

I have not opened the dodge rear axle, but I have on Fords. They are straight forward to do, called a life long seal.

In trying to find things like this I have been using youtube. Amazing how many people post their maintenance.

 

[ReelDuel]

Thanks jelag. I thought it shouldnt be too hard. Does it take a special size socket to remove the preload nut? I am thinking that I should go ahead and do the brakes while I am at it. What parts houses will turn the rotors?

 

[Bob4x4]

The tool has pins to engage the nut. It can be done with out the tool if yo understand how it works

 

[FJfonda]

The American Axles have a different fill procedure than the older Dana, if you recently changed the differential oil and it was filled to the "normal" run-out-the-hole" fill technique it will result in saturating the seal area and possibly a leak (proper fill is 3/8" below the fill hole). The socket is readily available at auto stores, not needed for dis-assembly but needed for the preload. I use jelag's jack procedure to move the oil as well as pack the bearing with grease before reassembly. I always use OEM seals ans gaskets for this job, no surprisesif fitmant that way. While in the job I would do a full brake rotor/pad/ebrake service. Nothing worse than going back in 6 months later. The job is pretty basic, lottsa big parts, dirt and grime. If you search on a 3500 series rear brake job or e-brake service there are detailed procedures and this post as well: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...eal-Leaking-Causes&highlight=3500+rear+brakes

 

[jelag]

FJfonda has a great point about doing the brakes if they are ready... its my personal choice to inspect brakes at least 2 times a year... I always run mine down to about 15% or so on the thinnest pad... and that opens a whole new thread about brake care... . my only thought... and hopefully others will agree its important to bleed (flush) brake fluid, in my opinion once a year... and I never just compress the piston and push dirty brake fluid back to the master cylinder. . and like I said... against the norm... I run my boxes fuller than normal...

Just my thoughts. .

 

[WalterJ]

10-4 jelag; Brake fluid is hydroscopic i. e. absorbs water, which rests in loy lying areas & corrodes aluminum as well as steel.

 

[JAndrus]

Do you need to put a little RTV on the hub where you tap in the new oil seal? I have my 2002 3500 apart now and just replaced the park brake shoes. Do I need to clean the bolts holding the axle to the hub and use new thread locker or if they are still sticky with the old just reuse them?

 

[FJfonda]

Do you need to put a little RTV on the hub where you tap in the new oil seal? I have my 2002 3500 apart now and just replaced the park brake shoes. Do I need to clean the bolts holding the axle to the hub and use new thread locker or if they are still sticky with the old just reuse them?

No sealant on the hub seal mating surface, the seal should already have a light coat of oil and that is all that is needs for install. Clean and reapply locktite on the axle bolts

 

[JAndrus]

There was a small ridge worn into the spindle I could feel with my fingernail where the axle seal rode. I read somewhere in the TDR to press the seal in less or more to keep it away from the worn area. So I tapped it in a few mm further and wiped a very small amount of RTV around the rough spot.
Replaced hub/rotor assembly, torqued axle nut 150ft/lbs backed off 1/4 turn, replaced axle with RTV and thread locker, disc brake calipers and wheels. Topped off diff oil and parked it sideways on a incline for oil to flow into hub.
Only thing I think I did wrong was squeeze the brake pads open with a clamp and brake fluid leaked out the back?

 

[FJfonda]

There was a small ridge worn into the spindle I could feel with my fingernail where the axle seal rode. I read somewhere in the TDR to press the seal in less or more to keep it away from the worn area. So I tapped it in a few mm further and wiped a very small amount of RTV around the rough spot.
Replaced hub/rotor assembly, torqued axle nut 150ft/lbs backed off 1/4 turn, replaced axle with RTV and thread locker, disc brake calipers and wheels. Topped off diff oil and parked it sideways on a incline for oil to flow into hub.
Only thing I think I did wrong was squeeze the brake pads open with a clamp and brake fluid leaked out the back?

Fluid escaping is a problem. There are only 3 ways for fluid to leak, bleeder. . banjo fitting (hose connection) or a piston seal leak. All 3 need to be addressed.