2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear axle bolts.

[RottonRob]

#@$%! Have question for you guys. My son called and said he had a problem with the rear axle studs. He noticed some leaking behind the hub cap. When he went to tighten the bolts ,they broke off. Took it to a dealer and thye said that they would have to replace the hub and studs.

Have any of you heard of this happening???? Dealer said they were rusted out.

I am in AZ for the winter so can't check for myself. Thanks , Bob

 

[Dieselram]

I have replaced wheel studs before but never heard of having to replace the whole hub unless the holes in the hub were wallered out real bad, I would think you would have to replace the wheel from driving around on a loose wheel more than replace the hub?

 

[IanF]

Are you talking about the wheel stud or the bolt that attaches the axle to the hub? I'm guessing it's the bolts that attach the axle to the hub. But it's jsut a guess sicne I'm not looking at the truck.



This sounds like a case of dealer vs. indie-shop repair mentality.



Dealer: broken hub bolt; hmm... no service # for that... replace hub... there is a service # for that... faster & easier to define = more profit.



Indie: broken hub bolt; remove broken bolt... figure out why the hub is leaking (gasket?), reinstall axle, send customer on his way. More labor, but fewer parts.



At least that's my take... but I own a VW TDI... and therefore I don't let dealer techs anywhere near my car... so it's unlikely I'll ever take my CDT to a Dodge dealer... I've also known and talked to a few dealer wrenches and what goes on there sometimes scares me.

 

[RottonRob]

Your right --bolts that attach the axle to the hub. I agree about the dealer thing,

 

[Dave M]

Your right --bolts that attach the axle to the hub. I agree about the dealer thing,

I had the same thing happen about 3 1/2 years ago on my 97 dually. Here is the thread "Axle Shaft Bolts Shearing Off-1Ton Dually":



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89581



I had noticed one bolt (they are not studs) had sheared off, so I tried tightening them and 2 more sheared off. Went to other side and same thing happened. I replaced all the bolts with bolts from the dealer (about $65). I heated the remaining bolts with oxy torch and same with broken bolts to get the axle off.



The bolts had an orangeish locktite on them and so did the replacements. I did a complete brake job, replaced rear hub oil seals, brake shoes, axle gasket, wheel cylinders, wheel brake cylinders, brake spring hardware, adjusted parking brake (it now works great) and checked the bearings. Haven't had any problems since. You will need a BIG socket to get the bearing nut off.



Sounds like you have a leaking axle shaft gasket. If the hub oil seal is leaking your brakes will be soaked with axle fluid and won't work very well if at all. Also check your brake wheel cylinders are not leaking. Mine were not leaking but I replaced them anyhow (about $20 apiece). You will know when you remove the hub.



Edit: While your in there it would be a good time to put synthetic fluid (if not already) in the rear end. The wheel bearings are lubed by the rear end fluid. Do not use limited slip fluid in the rear end. I did (7 oz per manual) and I've lost the the limited slip now. I put too much in I think. Put very little grease (if any on the wheel bearings or use cam lube grease. Otherwise it may get into the rear end and screw up your limited slip. Don't ask me how I know.



Good luck,

Dave

 

[GOlsen]

You will need a BIG socket to get the bearing nut off.

Yeah, it's a special socket. 2-9/16" rounded hex (at least if it's the same as on my D70). I ended up getting mine from Napa. They were the only place that had one around here. Cost me 20 something dollars.

 

[DWalters]

If they are the bolts that I am thinking of, one of mine sheared off as well. I went to the hardware store, got a bolt that the guy gave to me and put it on with locktite. The manual says to use locktite and only tighten to 8 in-lbs. I didn't read that till after I had overtightened mine and sheared it off. If I remember correctly I got a 7/16"-14 bolt that was I think 1-1/2" long and it worked just fine.

 

[Nate]

It's more than 8 in lbs :-laf



I want to say it's like 30-35 foot lbs but I don't have the book in front of me.

 

[Dave M]

It's more than 8 in lbs :-laf



I want to say it's like 30-35 foot lbs but I don't have the book in front of me.

I agree. I'll post when I get home and look at the book. It's at least 30 FT-lbs if not more. I don't think I could tighten anything as low as 8 in-lbs. I think someone must of had a brain fart (no offense intended) when they posted that. Even valve covers are around 5-8 ft-lbs I believe.



Dave

 

[Ragain]

Believe it or not,... . I do have a Cummins tool that breaks over at 6 in. lbs. ! $70 tool that I use to set my injector lash on my 400 Big Cam Cummins.

 

[Dave M]

Believe it or not,... . I do have a Cummins tool that breaks over at 6 in. lbs. ! $70 tool that I use to set my injector lash on my 400 Big Cam Cummins.

Well gosh... I stand corrected... . there is something with 6 in-lbs.



The torque for the bolts to axle for my 97 1 ton dually is 90 ft-lbs.



Dave

 

[KCanepari]

yup, I was really lucky on my '96 2500. I noticed one morning fluid leaking out of the hub. instead of trying to tighten them I went right to the dealer and got all new bolts and new metal gasket. put it back together and it's been fine ever since. If they loosen up at all you can't reuse the old bolts.

 

[RottonRob]

Thanks for the replys. He said that they replaced bolts ,hub and bearings.