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Rear axle ratio, and overhaul

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I have limited slip, all the clutch plates wore out, and I striped the spider gears out. My ring and pinion look fine but I need new clutch plates and spider gears. How and where do I order the correct parts for the job?



I have collected a few numbers off of the axle housing and tube. Please tell me if I am missing anything, and how do I find out my ratio?



RT Axle tube: L8OLOO3510150*INAM



DIFF HOUSING: 288IJ

42835

RM3



Do any of those numbers look familiar to you all? I looked on the drivers side door panel and did not find the rear ratio, I do not have an owners manual to tell me either, I would appreciate any help please. Jon
 
Those numbers don't look familiar to me. Is there a metal tag under one of the diff cover bolts? If so, look for a number similar to 605509-1. This is the "bill of material" number, and it will be very helpful when locating parts. You can check the number at Dana's website: http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~deabill~2



I've had excellent service from West Coast Differential ( http://www.differentials.com ) when regearing the axles in my Jeep. They should be able to supply the parts needed to overhaul the diff.



Can't help on how to rebuild the limited slip, but the factory service manual should detail the process.
 
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Jon,



I don't know squat about working on a differential. But I had to have my axle off last summer for machine work. My stepson's shop was doing the work, so I caught a break. But during reinstallation, with all new innards (except for the gears) there was a . 040 difference from the previous shim thickness.



When they put her back together there was a jingling sound, while going down the highway. They hooked up some kind of listening device to the axle housing and figured it was the teeth not meshing far enough. The previous shim was . 005 and they ended up with . 045.



This process required them tearing down and reinstalling several times. I only got charged the labor fee for a straight rebuild. But it's something to consider. If this explanation doesn't sound exactly correct, it's because of my somewhat limited intelligence and my very limited memory. But that's how I recall it.
 
Also check 4 wheel parts, 800-421-1050. It sounds lke a new carrier will fix your problem, and may be cheaper and easier since you are not real familiar with the work. check the factory service manual and TDR#24 for info. Good time to get a Detroit Locker, imho.
 
I recently saw an advertisement for a limited slip that said if you wear it out, they will replaced it with a brand new one. That would be a little piece of mind, but I don't recall which brand :confused: . I saw the ad in a major off-road magazine though, so it shouldn't be hard to find.

Travis. .
 
I can get you a master diff. rebuild kit which includes carrier & pinion bearings, carrier & pinion shims, ring gear bolts, pinion nut, pinion seal, crush sleeve/shims, gasket, loctite, & marking compound. for about $149 + shipping or a Detroit locker for about $580 plus shipping.



to rebuild the posi is about $80+SH for the kit if i recall correctly.
 
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While they wont do the set up, Larry Schmidt (sp?) Truck Parts in Perryville MO has good prices. If/when I get around to trading up the gear scale (have 4. 10s, want 3. 54 or higher), I'll get my gears from him. Seems like the clutch kit for Mom's was $80 last fall.



If it is genuine Spicer of better parts, the deal Todd T has dont sound bad, either.



Daniel
 
dpuckett said:
While they wont do the set up, Larry Schmidt (sp?) Truck Parts in Perryville MO has good prices. If/when I get around to trading up the gear scale (have 4. 10s, want 3. 54 or higher), I'll get my gears from him. Seems like the clutch kit for Mom's was $80 last fall.



If it is genuine Spicer of better parts, the deal Todd T has dont sound bad, either.



Daniel



Dan, they are National drivetrain's platinum line. your gear set 3:54-4:10 would be about $179 my patner and i have had good luck with these gear sets and parts kits. I can get spicer, but have to make a call for pricing.
 
Todd T said:
I can get you a master diff. rebuild kit which includes carrier & pinion bearings, carrier & pinion shims, ring gear bolts, pinion nut, pinion seal, crush sleeve/shims, gasket, loctite, & marking compound. for about $149 + shipping or a Detroit locker for about $580 plus shipping.



to rebuild the posi is about $80+SH for the kit if i recall correctly.



Todd, That all sounds good but I also need spider gears, and collars. What is your posi kit include, Is it only disks and friction plates? How do you know weather you are geting me the corect parts, I am having trouble supplying inland truck parts in columbia with enugh info (numbers) to get the corect stuff orderd. Thanks Jon
 
I have never had good luck with Inland Truck parts in Des Moines. You could never get them enough numbers. Certified Power Train in DM, or Salder Powertrain in Cedar Rapids or Davenport could get you parts faster then you could read all the numbers to Inland.



When driving the truck does it seem pretty well maxed out in OD at around 70-75 mph? Then it will be 4. 10s. In a stock truck with 3. 55's 90-95 mph is attainable. Thats how I tell gears in a first gen.



You can get a Dana 70 Detroit locker for $580? Todd T, pm me your numbers. I will be needing a detroit for a 60F and a 70 rear in the future.





Michael
 
I have a Detroit Locker in my '92 dually. It's great until there's a little snow on the ground, then it's like I'm driving a 'vette on ice. A locker, for all intents and purposes, is like a posi... It won't let one wheel spin faster than the other under torque. I have to use four wheel drive for even the slightest amount of snow to keep the rears from getting sideways, and that's with four BFG All Terrains out back. I take my truck on the beach in the summer so the locker helps there, but if I could do it over I'd probably spend the extra $$ and get an A. R. B. Air Locker so I could turn it off in the snow. Just my opinion.
 
My factory limited slip is almost as tight as a detroit. Granted it will not spin both tires when one is in the air, but with both tires on the ground, they will both spin. It too can be a handful to drive in the snow, but I like it that way. My truck is so nose heavy that 4X4 is manditory on getting the truck moving in snow or on ice, simply cause the rear tires will break loose so easy, even at idle.



I enjoy wheeling with detroits off road, and likem on the road too, but fear them in a tow vehicle with a heavy goosneck hooked up. Something is bound to break when pulling the trailer around a corner on the concrete.



Michael
 
I pull a pretty big (22 ft) enclosed moto-cross trailer and never had a problem with the Detroit Locker, ... yet. I went from a '90 first gen with single rear wheels and the factory open rear diff to a '92 dually with the Detroit Locker, I just have to get used to spinning "all four" out back. It's a different animal when it's in 4X4, the CTD adds so much weight to the front axle, you almost never lose traction.
 
When I think of towing heavy, its my 32' gooseneck with two fullsize trucks on it. When pulling the 28,000# around a corner in town, especially up hill the ls makes enough noise and tires chirping, I cannot imagine having a locked detroit doing the same thing. The ls yet tight is still giving, the detroit would not. Yeah I'm pretty heavy on the rear axel loaded up.



Michael
 
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