Rear Brake Calipers Seized

[CToney]

The rear brake calipers caused me a few $$$. My calipers siezed and wrecked the inner brake pads and the inside part of the rotor. I believe this is from the pistons sticking and not retracting. I have new rotor, pads and hardware to go on. How does one free up the pistons? I popped one out and it looks ok. New to problems with rear discs.

 

[Slow Six]

I have had a problem on mine where the slides through the little rubber boots get tight or seize. There needs to be grease in the boots. I had to do pads again a week ago and after greasing the slides they were still tight. I pulled the boot out and found an accumulation of rust and dirt. I got in there with a die grinder to remove all the build up to shiny metal again. After reassemble and greasing the slides moved back and forth with ease. Permatex make a synthetic grease specifically for this purpose. When these slides start binding it seems the inner pads wear a lot faster. Mopar also have guards to go in front of the calipers to prevent damage from gravel etc.

 

[CToney]

I have the caliper guards already. When I put the guards on I put on the new rubbers with the grease supplied. Obviously not enough. I will use the permatex this time. With 210,000 KMS I am putting on rebuilt calipers just to be sure. I hate to throw good money after bad. Thanks for the advice.



Chuck

 

[DE Jeeper]

I had to replace both rear callipers at around 125k. The passenger side froze up a week after the drivers side. I thought I was blew the head gasket because it looked like I was pushing white smoke out of the tail pipe, but it was the rotor roasting .



Aaron

 

[jelag]

Usually the boot around the piston lets some dirt past it... the dirt is the usual cause... we had a lot of problems with our Fords as the heat would damage the boot and it would crumble..... At oil change time, we look at each wheel and inspect the boots...

We clean them with a very light abrasive... 360 grit to remove any dirt... and sort of polish them... grit blast the caliper, lube the seal and push the piston and new seal back into the caliper installing the new boot... if the pistons are chrome plated steel, we polish them on a crankshaft polisher and if there is any pitting where the o-ring/seal fits into the piston we discard it and replace it... .

We flush every system by adding fresh brake fluid... usually running a qt or 1 1/2 qt's through as we bleed them... .

We usually see 150K miles on brakes with some care... .

 

[Blakers]

I had to replace both of mine about a year apart. I tried pushing them in with a c-clamp and they would work for a while, but then I'd smell a brake burning up and everything back there was cooking and the pad would be all gone. No problem after replacing them, but that doesn't mean the new ones won't go bad some day.

My back rotors rust up a lot because they don't get used enough. Unless you're hauling a load all the time the rear brakes don't do a whole lot, so they never get hot enough to dry out, thus they rust and corrode.

Blake

 

[DPashko]

had this problem years ago every 2 to 4 weeks! Do alot of driving in mud so do as slow six says but remove a small amout of the metal material where the rubber boots go through the caliper. There will be some play in the caliper now and if mud/ dirt builds up there is still enough tolerence for the piston to move and get more even brake pad wear. after that was getting about a year of wear out the read pads. Always wash the rear wheels and brakes out good every wash. The brake guards do help but they only stop rocks from puncturing the rubber boots thus letting water and debris in drying out the grease inside. the mud and dirt still gets in from the outside of the caliper and causes them to seize.

 

[CToney]

I am going to wash out my rear brakes after evertime I am in the mud now. Just after mine seized my dad's '03 did the same. Now all is well. I had to change the idler pulley with 130,000 miles on her. Just another item to check I guess.

 

[Shadrach]

I need to do the rear brakes on my 03. My RR inner pad has chewed up the rotor. What can you guys tell me about the parking brake set up? Shadrach

 

[Blakers]

I am going to wash out my rear brakes after evertime I am in the mud now. Just after mine seized my dad's '03 did the same. Now all is well. I had to change the idler pulley with 130,000 miles on her. Just another item to check I guess.

I haven't had any problem with mud causing brake problems. My brake problems were just caused by rust. Around here rotors usually rust out before they wear out.

 

[Blakers]

I need to do the rear brakes on my 03. My RR inner pad has chewed up the rotor. What can you guys tell me about the parking brake set up? Shadrach

The parking brakes are really cheezy! Way too small to do much good and way too hard to work on or adjust.



I tried to adjust mine, but gave up after trying to get a tool in there. You have to reach in with a tool - I assume a special brake adjusting wrench - and turn the adjusters. The problem is you have to go through an oval hole and you have to travel through about an inch and a half of steel forging to get to the hole. I just took my rotors off, snugged the adjusters up and slipped the rotor back on. Kept trying it until the fit felt right.



I just don't think those little parking brakes do a whole lot on these trucks. I tend about 30 or 40 gas wells a day and have to stop and use the parking brake on everyone of them. Sometimes it's almost impossible to prevent the truck from rolling on a hill while I'm opening a gate. Many times I steer it into a ditch or against a hillside so it doesn't roll away - and that's even with the parking brake on.

 

[Shadrach]

My P brakes works fine right now. I was just wondering about them. Shadrach

 

[DPashko]

Yes the parking brake set is a total cheesy drum set up. especially if you drive in any mud at all it will fill up with mud and not work worth a damn and the cable always stretches too. I just put an electric line lock on my rear brake line problem solved! and it also works nice as an anti-theft because the dont know how to turn the brake off! haha and if you use it at a dealership be sure to tell them how to use the brake but usually it is just better not to use it at all, and save a ton of confusion at the dealership.

 

[Blakers]

I just put an electric line lock on my rear brake line problem solved! and it also works nice as an anti-theft because the dont know how to turn the brake off!

What are the details on your line lock? I had one on the front of an F-150 and it was wonderful. Not electric - just a quarter turn valve under the dash (turn the valve and step on the brake - the front brakes were held on. Just turn the valve back to the off position and they released). But I sold the truck several years ago and I don't know the brand of line lock. Been looking, but can't find anything online like it.



Thanks,

Blake

 

[DPashko]

I dont remember the brand name of mine, but got it from Greggs distributers. Its a solonoid which takes a small amount of power when activated. It is 1/4" tubing and can be installed anywhere on the brakeline. you flip the swith on and step on the brake to set it. the harder you press on the brake the harder it locks. flip swith off and step on the brake harder then you set the brake on with and brake releases. works great! think it was $300-$400 for the unit. installed it myself inside the frame rail on the rear brake line just above the upper control arm. Used a shock washer and long bolt to install it through the large hole located there.

 

[DShore]

SUMMIT RACING has several line locks available for between $40 and $110 each. Almost any business that caters to drag racers will have these available. Hope this is helpful.