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Rear brake rotors

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Call me lucky, but I haven't had to replace my rear Rotors till now. I have a 04 2500 with 140,000. I took off the outer cap and there was a small amount of fluid dripped out. Now here is the newbie part. It seemed like what I was taking out was the axle. Yes? What if any thing is holding the rotor on after that? Is there someplace I can see a picture of this or a guide?



Any of you have experience with drilled / slotted rotors with ceramic pads?



Thanks



Don

2004 4x4 8' box cummins
 
What outer cap are you talking about? The long axle? If so it can stay.

It is a pop off rotor.

Rotor will come off once caliper and bracket have been removed. Release the parking brake, and use a dead blow hammer. Rotor will pop off. You may just have to tell it.
 
If you pulled 8 bolts and then slide the axle shaft out, then make sure to clean the surfaces really well and either replace the factory gasket or use a quality silicon gasket maker.

The rear axles are full floating so removing that axle will not effect the wheel hub or bearings at all.
 
This is a SRW 2500, but there is no way to take the rotor off without taking out the axle. It is one big solid peice.



Would there be any benefit in replacing the bearings while I have them out?



Thanks
 
The rotor is a seperate piece but most likely rusted together.

Inspect your bearings for wear, but since they run in oil I doubt they need to be replaced. Just retorque properly.
 
If you plan on pulling the hub make sure you have a new seal on hand it will not be reusable. You should also replace the axle gasket
 
Agree with the others, you should not have to pull the axle to change the rear rotors. I replaced the rotors on my wife's '04 back in the winter. I had to beat the crap out of one of them with a mini-sledge to get it off, but I did not have to pull the axles.
 
Is my face red. . You were right. The seam was full rust and dirt and it looked like a solid piece.



Thanks I will not doubt you next time



Don
 
Is my face red. . You were right. The seam was full rust and dirt and it looked like a solid piece.



Thanks I will not doubt you next time



Don



No worries! We've all been down that road at one time or another. This is why we have have subscriptions to TDR! :)
 
Your face was red?! I beat on the driver's side for five minutes before I took the parking brake off. You can bet the mangled rotor just slipped right off after that... d'oh!
 
I haven't tried this for a stuck disc, but it sure works on a stuck drum. Take the wheel off then thread a couple of nuts back on about half way (don't try this with just one wheel jacked up) put it in drive and run it up past 60 mph, maybe more then slam on the brakes. It may take more than one try. Another thing, if you do take the rear hub off and clean the bearings make sure you grease them. They will not lube from the differential right away.
 
My question is why would you replace the rotors if they aren't below the minimum thickness. If they are not scored from metal to metal wear, take them to a machine shop and have them miked. . or mike them your self... there is usually over . 090" of material designed to be there for wear... the machine shop can return them to you, their machined true and can be re-installed. . we used to turn them for $25 each and would usually do it in a couple of hours. I'm guessing that good ones are $150 each...

Usually your local auto parts store has the ability to machine them, and its part of a good brake job... . Just my thoughts. BTW, I expect at least 170K miles on the pads on my 3500, that's what we averaged on the other trucks I owned. .
 
Yup, repl. both. FWIW, I needed to replace mine in a hurry but the only thing available was the most expensive (naturally... ) Bosch rotors. I have to say they are very nice. They have a coating that seems to keep them from rusting and they are balanced.
Our Prius also has them and 1. 5 years later they still aren't rusted.
 
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