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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Brakes, what else should I consider while apart?

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When I did the front brakes last years I did every new upfront, so now its time to do the rear.



I have a new hardware kit, Chevy sized wheel cylinders, new shoes, new flex line from chassis to rear all from NAPA. Never dealt with a full floating rear end so this is new territory for me. I have new axle seals, but in reading the Haynes manual it looks like there are tapered bearings on each side, should these be repacked or replaced? I plan on changing the diff fluid at the same time and having the drums turned (assuming they aren't all torn up for some reason).



Looks like I need to pick up a 2-9/16s axle socket, any other special tools?



Thanks
 
you can research putting in 1 ton wheel cylinders from a 94 1ton chevy pretty much direct replacemnet for better stopping I did it and seem to work for me.
 
Bearings will typically last a long time in a Dana (even one that's been "abused"), I wouldn't touch them if they don't need it (save your $$ for elsewhere). Check the seal to see if its leaking when you take the drum off... about 100k and both mine and my dad's 99s started leaking. FYI, these are initially greased upon install, and then get lubricated by gear oil that enters through the axle tube... they don't require periodic repacking like a front wheel bearing.

If you do replace the bearings, there are two cones and their races, plus the seal. The cones basically fall out, while the races will need tapped out... use a quality name such as Koyo, NTN, Bower, Timken, etc. . Pulling the hubs requires pulling the axles shafts (fairly easy) and you should replace the one-time-use self-locking axle nut (big thing) as well... it takes a special socket to remove also.

Since its a 2500, it should have a divorced drum (drum separates from the hub), so it *should* come off once the wheel is pulled if its not rusted on. Replace your already purchased brake parts, and should be good for a long time.
 
Bearings will typically last a long time in a Dana (even one that's been "abused"), I wouldn't touch them if they don't need it (save your $$ for elsewhere). Check the seal to see if its leaking when you take the drum off... about 100k and both mine and my dad's 99s started leaking. FYI, these are initially greased upon install, and then get lubricated by gear oil that enters through the axle tube... they don't require periodic repacking like a front wheel bearing.



If you do replace the bearings, there are two cones and their races, plus the seal. The cones basically fall out, while the races will need tapped out... use a quality name such as Koyo, NTN, Bower, Timken, etc. . Pulling the hubs requires pulling the axles shafts (fairly easy) and you should replace the one-time-use self-locking axle nut (big thing) as well... it takes a special socket to remove also.



Since its a 2500, it should have a divorced drum (drum separates from the hub), so it *should* come off once the wheel is pulled if its not rusted on. Replace your already purchased brake parts, and should be good for a long time.



Thanks for the input. My drums are "free" as I've had them off before to look at the brakes and lightly coated the face of the hub with anti-sieze. The axle seals are located where in relationship to the bearings? Inboard or outboard? If the seals are leaking the hub and bearings will need to be pulled to replace the seal, am I seeing this correctly in my mind?
 
Thanks for the input. My drums are "free" as I've had them off before to look at the brakes and lightly coated the face of the hub with anti-sieze. The axle seals are located where in relationship to the bearings? Inboard or outboard? If the seals are leaking the hub and bearings will need to be pulled to replace the seal, am I seeing this correctly in my mind?







The seal is located in the hub, so you would get to inspect the bearings if you need to replace the seal. Pulling the hubs is a fairly simple thing to do... pull the axle shaft, remove the stop clip from the axle nut, remove the axle nut, pull the hub free of the spindle... just don't drop the outer bearing in the dirt (inner one is held in place by the seal).



Other than the axle shaft, the setup is very similar to a trailer axle/spindle or front wheel bearing on an older 2wd.
 
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